Aluminum skin crack

[perryg114]

Originally Posted by cwf

I did not have to cut the wall out behind the frame hinge mount on our 1999. I slowly removed the top screws and it continued to back out.. I slowly turned the screw until I could grab with pliers or hand and push the screw in. I then tightened the screw again... and it did tighten.

If it moves, then you will probably have to cut the wall.. so, this is a key step.

I then backed out the lower screw, repeating the above steps... once loosened, I was able to remove the top screw and install a longer 4" bolt (1/4" coarse thread on ours) to capture the nut in the wall.

The door is HEAVY. Don't remove by yourself.

Repeat on the lower screw.. install another bolt as above... Once you verify the nuts are captured, perform same on lower hinge.

Once you have the bolts in place, you can slide the hinge and door away from the frame. Now remove one bolt at a time when you have the door 2 inches or so..Now you can remove one bolt at a time and reach behind the hinge to replace the original screws into the door frame. When the bolts are removed and screws have been replaced to hold the nuts in place, you can clear the door away and continue with your work. Reverse the process to reinstall.

Why remove the door unless you remove the frame?

[cwf]

Removing the door is difficult.. it's heavy and unweildy. With the door off the trailer, you can work around the frame...

My main reason for the post was to help know how the hinges may be bolted on your trailer.. and possibly retain the nuts without having to cut the inner wall.

[perryg114]

Originally Posted by cwf

Removing the door is difficult.. it's heavy and unweildy. With the door off the trailer, you can work around the frame...

My main reason for the post was to help know how the hinges may be bolted on your trailer.. and possibly retain the nuts without having to cut the inner wall.

I made round holes over each screw head to get to the nuts on the back side then covered the holes with metal hole plugs that were about 3/4" in diameter. It looks factory.

[tbashin]

Crack is because your door opening is spreading apart at the bottom for some reason. Maybe sagging in the door area or one side of the door and causing it. I would look for the root cause and fix it before patching it.

[cwf]

Originally Posted by perryg114

I made round holes over each screw head to get to the nuts on the back side then covered the holes with metal hole plugs that were about 3/4" in diameter. It looks factory.

Great advice! My procedure was ok on our 1999 ...because the nuts are captured.

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by cwf

I did not have to cut the wall out behind the frame hinge mount on our 1999. I slowly removed the top screws and it continued to back out.. I slowly turned the screw until I could grab with pliers or hand and push the screw in. I then tightened the screw again... and it did tighten.

If it moves, then you will probably have to cut the wall.. so, this is a key step.

I then backed out the lower screw, repeating the above steps... once loosened, I was able to remove the top screw and install a longer 4" bolt (1/4" coarse thread on ours) to capture the nut in the wall.

The door is HEAVY. Don't remove by yourself.

Repeat on the lower screw.. install another bolt as above... Once you verify the nuts are captured, perform same on lower hinge.

Once you have the bolts in place, you can slide the hinge and door away from the frame. Now remove one bolt at a time when you have the door 2 inches or so..Now you can remove one bolt at a time and reach behind the hinge to replace the original screws into the door frame. When the bolts are removed and screws have been replaced to hold the nuts in place, you can clear the door away and continue with your work. Reverse the process to reinstall.

My 13 has individual nuts for each bolt..I had to drill holes to reach them