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Old 01-25-2016, 02:43 PM   #1
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
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1959 18 footer Globester panel replacement

I started a thread a while back http://www.airforums.com/forums/f112...er-141326.html

I'm at the point of starting to replace panels. Sadly there are about 9 panels that need replaced. I'm ordering the 2024 T-3 All Clad .032 aluminum.

I had a couple of questions since this my first frame off restoration.
The frame, axle, brakes, gas lines, floor, belly skin, insulation, wraps, are done. Flipped upright and have shell sitting on channels.

Before I started to remove too many panels I figured I'd level, jack up rear to proper height and attach front and rear corners at least enough to hold shell in place. I didn't want to drill too many holes in new channel since most lower panels need to be removed.

From what I understand it is best to put panels in place and use skins that will stay to drill holes. I see where some people drill holes off of old panels and not too sure that's the way to go.

I spoke with Colin Hyde and he suggested to get all leveled and attached then replace one panel at a time so not to have a wet noodle flopping around. He had suggested using straps to crank down shell as it is sitting over wraps but still not settled down where it should be. Also there are no old holes in channel to line up. I used 3/4" ply as well,. Wheel wells don't line up even remotely close as wells were beat pretty good. I'll need to reinforce those with some channel as there is not much of anything to attach to.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

cheers
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Old 01-25-2016, 03:16 PM   #2
59' Globester
 
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Well I waited 35 minutes so couldn't edit post. That seems silly not to be able to edit.

There was Butyl putty tape I believe at wheel wells / side panel and at door / corner panel.
Is that still used or Vulcrum, or TremPro 635? Is it used on each rivet or on each panel seam or both? I guess it would make removing pretty difficult if you had to replace a panel again.
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:32 AM   #3
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I used black sikaflex 221 on wheel wells. And gray sikaflex 222 on patches and rivets. It helps seal the up. I know it's overkill but I hope not to take it apart again. I believe the factory does seal the the seams. Btw, great job. Keep it up!! You'll be camping soon with shiny metal
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Old 02-01-2016, 10:43 PM   #4
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
Three Rivers , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rugjenkins View Post
I used black sikaflex 221 on wheel wells. And gray sikaflex 222 on patches and rivets. It helps seal the up. I know it's overkill but I hope not to take it apart again. I believe the factory does seal the the seams. Btw, great job. Keep it up!! You'll be camping soon with shiny metal
Thanks for the words of encouragement as I was beginning to talk to myself. I wasn't sure if anyone was seeing these threads.

I'm starting to get things in position. Have the front and rear attached with temporary screws / rivets, cleco's .

Got L brackets in channels at door jamb, and jamb is opening proper.

Just got aluminum, waiting on sealant, more tools, cleco's..etc..
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Old 02-01-2016, 11:37 PM   #5
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Buck riveting is fun. Start in center and make your way out. You've done all the hard stuff. The panels will go quick and you'll look at the finished panels and be like "yep I just did that". Swagger inside and have the mrs come and admire. Can't wait to see the panels done. Swagger on😎
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Old 02-02-2016, 11:17 AM   #6
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
Three Rivers , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rugjenkins View Post
Buck riveting is fun. Start in center and make your way out. You've done all the hard stuff. The panels will go quick and you'll look at the finished panels and be like "yep I just did that". Swagger inside and have the mrs come and admire. Can't wait to see the panels done. Swagger on��
well don't have a mrs any more so I'll just keep talking to myself...LOL!

Yeah I was gonna ask that....where to start one edge or center.
Do you run a bead of sealant on just rivets?

I was talking to Kip (Aerowood) and I believe he suggested fitting drilling and then removing to de-burr. Then I guess run a bead of sealant on the panel edge and try and squeeze it back in place, cleco in place, coat each rivet as you go?
sounds pretty messy so I'd guess wearing rubber gloves and lots of thinner for clean up???
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:03 PM   #7
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That's the procedure I would do. On my patches I put sealant on everything- the patch, rivets and the sealed around patch. On my belly pan to shell I'll do the same approach as above. Good luck. Post some pics.
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:44 PM   #8
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Consider .040 thick material, specially for the big flat panels. It won't get all wavy as easily and it's almost impossible to tell any difference in the final look.
I pre drill from the old panel but use 3/32 holes and lots of clecos to fit it all. A final 1/8 or 5/32 hole ( depending on your rivet selection) gives you a little wiggle room for final alignment.
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Old 02-03-2016, 12:09 AM   #9
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
Three Rivers , California
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Of course i already ordered .032. I guess I could get two more sheets of .040. Each side panel is I think 42" x 95". That would help to keep it flat.

I noticed that they used 2024 for interior panels so I could use some of this .032 in there.
I've been scraping and chisling out undercoating on main junctures and around door entry which needs serious attention. I have to take the door off for that side panel but I have framing in place and attached firmly.

As I was scraping with a small chisel I slipped and caught a point of sheet metal. it was tingly for some time and I wanted to finish this stretch before I took a break.
When I did my finger was bloody contained in the gloves. No wonder it was tingly so much. It went through the glove and the nail....yow!

I finally took out my ceiling brace for lifting the shell...not coming off again.

I'm liking this little ACE Rivet gun...for straight runs its great, fewer pulls to do the job, no jams.
I have a flex head for angles but straight shot not crazy about it.
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Old 02-03-2016, 07:49 AM   #10
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Is the rivet gun for the inside?
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Old 02-03-2016, 12:53 PM   #11
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Ouch. I cut a nerve in my left hand doing the same thing.

A heat gun softens some of that goop up.
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Old 02-03-2016, 04:30 PM   #12
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
Three Rivers , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 248
Quote:
Originally Posted by rugjenkins View Post
Is the rivet gun for the inside?
anywhere you have a straight shot.
I used it on the belly pan when inverted and had to remove at the door entrance for elevator bolts / L brackets and re-attach.

It has a longer grip range and my counter guy at ACE swore he'd never had one returned. It says "guaranteed" on package which I believe him.
It takes less pulls for each rivet which adds up.

I got tired of switching from 3/16" to 1/8" so I bought it...only $11.95.
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Old 02-03-2016, 04:34 PM   #13
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
Ouch. I cut a nerve in my left hand doing the same thing.

A heat gun softens some of that goop up.
Yeah Vernon, It's funny how you figure stuff out by trying many different things..I have a rigid angled putty knife that worked well on the old hard brittle stuff in flat areas. then the little wood chisel is good around rivets on heavier curved wall channels. It still takes time, time, time.
I'll give the heat gun a try too. I was thinking about the aircraft paint stripper as well but messy and splatters on yur skin..gets itchy, messy.

I was thinking about the pain and how much someone would have to pay me to intentionally cut or pierce myself...It would cost a whole lot. But here I do it for free all the time.
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:18 PM   #14
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
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Put the front corner piece back on with clecos. Got the body clecoed down to the floor leveled and jacked around.
Now was time to take the interior panels out and remove the remaining insulation.
Rolled up the ceiling and bagged insulation.
I'll remove interior end caps tomorrow. I haven't decided if I'll strip those and refinish or what. The rest I will replace as it was hacked up pretty good. I am also eliminating things and moving everything around.
Got my caulk, 2024 T3 and all my tools that I needed.
I'll try and get all the insulation scrubbed and blown, washed out and set up to start replacing panels. I have many panels to replace, this is going to be interesting. Looking forward to getting those done.
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:41 PM   #15
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It's looking good!
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Old 02-11-2016, 09:04 PM   #16
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Two things, I had great luck using Citrastrip on that black goop, coat it , cover with plastic, leave overnights and wipe off the next day.

Maybe I'm reading this wrong but you're not planning on using pop rivets ( the kind the ace gun works on ) on the outside skins are you?

Typically any panel seam that goes on top is drilled with both panels , old on top of new, lying flat on a big piece of plywood. Put your Clecos in thru the old and the new metal right into the wood ( it will hold the panel in place.) Start in the center and drill out to the edges.

If the panel goes underneath on the seam , once you slip the panel in place all the holes will be there in the top panel, so you can just drill thru. No marking of the holes is needed. Does this make sense?
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:35 AM   #17
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
Three Rivers , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 248
Quote:
Originally Posted by reinergirl View Post
Two things, I had great luck using Citrastrip on that black goop, coat it , cover with plastic, leave overnights and wipe off the next day.

Maybe I'm reading this wrong but you're not planning on using pop rivets ( the kind the ace gun works on ) on the outside skins are you?

Typically any panel seam that goes on top is drilled with both panels , old on top of new, lying flat on a big piece of plywood. Put your Clecos in thru the old and the new metal right into the wood ( it will hold the panel in place.) Start in the center and drill out to the edges.

If the panel goes underneath on the seam , once you slip the panel in place all the holes will be there in the top panel, so you can just drill thru. No marking of the holes is needed. Does this make sense?
No pop rivets on the shell, have buck rivets.

I guess what you're saying is if it is the overlapping panel you'd remove it and use as a template for holes.
If it is underlying panel you'd use existing overlapping panel still in place to drill through.

when using Trempro on panel seams do you do that once panel is in place or before you slip it in place. Also rivets individually? It seems like it would be quite a mess handling each rivet to goop up and then grab your pneumatic gun with goopy hands.
Getting close to that point now so I'm sure I'll figure out a system.

Got interior endcaps out and scrubbed down insulation that was attached to undercoat on panels. Vacumed it up and blew it out real good. I love getting all the old crap outta there. I am excited about being immersed in new materials.
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:48 AM   #18
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
Three Rivers , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 248
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
Consider .040 thick material, specially for the big flat panels. It won't get all wavy as easily and it's almost impossible to tell any difference in the final look.
I pre drill from the old panel but use 3/32 holes and lots of clecos to fit it all. A final 1/8 or 5/32 hole ( depending on your rivet selection) gives you a little wiggle room for final alignment.
I did order two more sheets Vernon of .040 for the side panels.
I had it shipped flat as I was afraid it might not lay flat or kink. That cost me about $100 extra as opposed to being rolled.

So Vern do you run the Trempro before you slip the panel in? Or do you put in a few clecos and then run it?
Also each rivet gets the goop?
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:21 PM   #19
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I layed the new sheet face down on waxed paper/ plywood then the old panel face down on top of it. Marked the shape and cut to size. Then I drilled all of the holes to 3/32 (I have a ton of 3/32 clecos) so when the final drill to size (5/32) it left me a small amount of wiggle room incase my initial drill was off.
The panel was the fit and drilled to 5/32, removed and cleaned all of the shavings. All of the seams were caulked with trempro and the panel went in with 5/32 clecos. Each rivet got a dab of caulk and like Shelly said, start in the middle and work outward watching for puckers.

Keep a coffee can of mineral spirits handy to dump the gooped up clecos into and a whole roll of paper towels to remove the unholy mess that results. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-12-2016, 10:49 PM   #20
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Like Vern said �� drill, remove, deburr, apply Trempro, Cleco and rivet. I also would apply a dab of Tempro on the back of each rivet when the panel was complete....striving for that leak proof��trailer!! Oh and buy shares in mineral spirits ��. If you aren't creating a mess you aren't using enough Tempro lol!

Kudos for thinking this through beforehand, you're doing great!!
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