Woodworkers - suggestions on finish.

[guy99]

The interior wood in the remodeled bed and bath in our 310 limited is cherry. The finish is a sprayed on lacquer. I'm in the process of adding/completing some trim work that wa never completed (It's a long story, alluded to elsewhere ). It been cold and damp here so spraying lacquer outdoors is not an option. Nor is spraying lacquer in the house - the only heated space available. I'm looking for suggestions for a finish which can be applied in the house which will match the existing finish.

Brush on lacquer, polyurethane, tung oil, watco?

[TomW]

I brushed polyurethane from a new can on all my cherry woodwork even though the weather was suitable for spraying.

There were no brushmarks evident after the poly dried.

While I would like to attribute this to my consumate skill as a painter , I have been burned by using old poly, and think fresh poly is was the secret to my success.

Tom

[TomW]

Oh, and new woodwork (a bed) was stained first. I experimented with trying to duplicate the original appearance. Color-wise I succeeded. But I came real close to the way catalyzed lacquer looks with satin polyurethane.

Tom

[markdoane]

I'm about halfway through refinishing all my woodwork. I'm using Varathane Spar Urethane, Satin finish. It's a new can I bought from Menard's yesterday.

I got some brush marks. I think part of the reason is I applied the second and third coats while the finish was dry, but not totally hardened. I have heard that if you brush over previous brush marks, you make them a lot worse.

So now I'm sanding everything in preparation for the fourth coat, and letting it dry an extra day.

[guy99]

Originally Posted by markdoane

I'm about halfway through refinishing all my woodwork. I'm using Varathane Spar Urethane, Satin finish. It's a new can I bought from Menard's yesterday.

I got some brush marks. I think part of the reason is I applied the second and third coats while the finish was dry, but not totally hardened. I have heard that if you brush over previous brush marks, you make them a lot worse.

So now I'm sanding everything in preparation for the fourth coat, and letting it dry an extra day.

I have had good luck thining the finish and then applying it with a 'rub-er'. Still need to level a bit with fine wet/dry sand paper with a lubricant (soap and water works fine) after the finish is well hardened.

[jessl]

I would recommend Minwax wipe on poly. It's easy, not messy, attractive, durable and protects and hardens the wood.

[Larry C]

I have restored antiques and damaged furniture for years as a business. Sprayed lacquer is hard to beat IF you have the capabilities to do it properly. For the past several years, on custome furniture I also build, I have begun to use "PolyCrylic", made by Minwax. It's a waterbased finish, so there are no problems with fumes.
You have to "scuff" sand the old finish, (I use a green ScotchBrite pad), the apply the finish using a disposable foam brush. There should be no brushmarks. Apply at least 2 coat, preferably 3 coats.
It is an extremly hard finish, comparable to the catalyzed lacquers, and conversion varnishes that are used commercially, and very easy to clean as well, just use a damp cloth.
Good luck!

[Chaplain Kent]

Originally Posted by Larry C

I have restored antiques and damaged furniture for years as a business. Sprayed lacquer is hard to beat IF you have the capabilities to do it properly. For the past several years, on custome furniture I also build, I have begun to use "PolyCrylic", made by Minwax. It's a waterbased finish, so there are no problems with fumes.
You have to "scuff" sand the old finish, (I use a green ScotchBrite pad), the apply the finish using a disposable foam brush. There should be no brushmarks. Apply at least 2 coat, preferably 3 coats.
It is an extremly hard finish, comparable to the catalyzed lacquers, and conversion varnishes that are used commercially, and very easy to clean as well, just use a damp cloth.
Good luck!

You stole my thunder. The PolyCrylic product by Min-wax is marvelous. I will apply many thin coats using a "Jen Poly" foam brush. Stay away from the imitators found in the big box stores and visit your friendly Tru- Valu and get a "Jen Poly" foam brush. The foam is more dense and the handle will stay attached. I will place this brush into a baggy and seal it between coats, using the same brush sometimes up to twenty or more coats. The finish you get is incredible and since the product dries so quickly it can be re-coated soon after application. On freshly stained or very porous wood I will used the Min-wax water based sealer which is compatible with the PolyCrylic.

[2airishuman]

thanks refinishers....

i've been debating the minwax wipe on acrylic versus the sponge/brush on polycyrlic...

for use OVER the spray on finish the hickory now has.

the oem spray was/is very thin. many boards have nearly bare areas in short order...

i don't care about fumes or drying time.

i do want satin, clear and compatible with the current finish....

looking inside a can, the polycrylic is virtually clear, while the wipe on acrylic is very pale amber...

i'd like to read more about both products.

needing to 'scuff' before application is a negative, with so much wood. unless the product has other virtues over the wipe on acrylic...

actually i didn't want to recoat everything, just the thinning areas and boards near water...

so matching the current finish is a goal...am i fooling my self about the match?

any more info?

cheers
2air'

btw the factory touch up product for this is a spray on....and its the same product they use to touch up the exterior clearcoat !

[Larry C]

The difference in the color is because the "wipe-on" is an oil base, and "Polycrylic" is a water base. The Poly is much more durable and fool proof than the wipe on.
I DON'T recommend trying to recover an old finish, simply because there may be hairline crazing that you can't see without a 10x magnifier.
Scuff sanding is no problem, I use Scotchbrite pads (green) I've done entire home kitchens using them. For no more cabinets than there are in an AS, it shouldn't take more than a couple of hours at the longest....

[68 Overlander]

Guy,
I agree with these guys on the min-wax. I used it professionally years ago and always as a hobbyist. I've never used a more forgiving product on wood and it looks great.

[j54mark]

For a wipe-on finish I like oil-based polyurethane mixed roughly 50/50 with Watco Danish Oil (natural, with no color). Advantages - nearly foolproof, easy to touch up, even years later, no brush marks, very durable, very attractive finish. Disadvantages - it builds in very thin coats, so three applications are the minimum for furniture, and it is not waterproof, so countertops need something else.

You wipe it on and then wipe off the excess in, oh, 20 minutes or so. I usually apply the second coat with 220 wet/dry sandpaper, and the third with 400 wet/dry. If I really want to go the extra mile I add a fourth coat with 600.

But the new water based polys can be very good as well. I like the Valspar product, whose name eludes me at present.

Mark

[BWH-Utah]

I'll second the Watco Danish Oil Finish. Great stuff, comes in many different stain variations. I haven't tried the wet sanding approach, that sounds like a neat trick. I have always just put it on with cloth rag. Another favorite is tung oil, again applied with a cloth rag. Both finishes are very forgiving.
As always be carefull with those used rags. I hang mine on a chain-link-fence till they are dry.

[romap]

I like a product called Deft. Has a strong odor, but dries super fast. I usually use 2 or 3 coats rubbing with 00 wool between to knock down the brush strokes. After the final coat I rub out with 0000 wool and Minwax Butchers Wax. The result is a wonderful satin hand rubbed finish with little effort. I don't know how it would work as a touch up thing though - try a small spot to see how it looks, you can always use the steel wool to rid of it if it doesn't work out.

[Larry C]

Originally Posted by romap

I like a product called Deft. Has a strong odor, but dries super fast. I usually use 2 or 3 coats rubbing with 00 wool between to knock down the brush strokes. After the final coat I rub out with 0000 wool and Minwax Butchers Wax. The result is a wonderful satin hand rubbed finish with little effort. I don't know how it would work as a touch up thing though - try a small spot to see how it looks, you can always use the steel wool to rid of it if it doesn't work out.

Deft is a brushing lacquer.....it is OK, but don't use it in a confined space because of the lacquer fumes.....I've used it in my shop on some custom furniture....it is not a hard finish....but it is repairable when you scratch it.....I still have to recommend "Poly-Crylic" by Minwax....it's a much harder and more durable finish.

[PINKBIKE]

first of all,please use a sealer coat of shellac, it is called Seal Coat (made by zinnser)dries fast and will raise the grain,which is a great thing after it has dried for about 2 hours sand it down with 220 grit,vacuum,do not use a tack cloth ! then you can use any finish you like,there may be a company called muralo in californai they make some great water borne finishes which will dry fast,low odor and are very durable If you are very lucky you may be able to find some of the newer products which are ceramic based,great for what you want to finish...any questions please find me on yahoo, name is painterofeverything,good luck

[TomW]

Originally Posted by Rollerboy

first of all,please use a sealer coat of shellac ...

What are the advantages of shellac over everything else?

Tom

[Frank's Trailer Works]

The truth is that the stuff that smells the worst works the best... I am also a woodworker. I suggest you mask off everything and spray a catalyzed lacquer. It will be more involved masking everything and setting fan(s) to exhaust the fumes. Seal the stained wood with a lacquer based product, scuff all existing finish with 220 also sealed wood. Two coats for catalyzed lacquer from a cup gun... and you will have a glowing, durable finish that will last a long time. It may be a lot of work, but the results will top notch. M.L. Campbell is one of the best brands of lacquer around. I use the crystal line and it is close to bullet proof.

[TomW]

Originally Posted by 62overlander

... I suggest you mask off everything and spray a catalyzed lacquer. ...

From whom do you purchase catalyzed lacquer? It is not a common item.

Tom

[Inland RV Center, In]

We did a paint test a number of years ago, on some furniture we created and installed in a customized Airstream.

We explored Lacquers, Centari's, furniture paint and the works.

We had a theory.

What would take a lot of use, not be harmed by the sun, and not show any water spots?

We tried "automotive clear."

Worked like a champ, is still in use today, and shows no signs of water spots, and the sun has had zero effect on it.

Our thoughts were if it's good enough to protect a car, it should be equally as good to protect furniture, and, give it a gloss look and feel just like glass, at the same time.

We did the same thing on the interior walls on a 1936 Airstream, when we used "Birch" paneling. The walls look great and the finish is as smooth as glass.

Everyone that has seen the results of using automotive clear on that furniture and walls, simply say "wow."

Andy