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Old 01-07-2005, 04:37 PM   #1
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What wood would you use?

I am trying to spec the wood out for my dinette table and seats.

I plan on using 3/4" material for the table top doubling up on the eding so I have something to work with. I want to put metal edging on it if I can find some. I plan on laminating is so the material does not have to be of finish quality.

A half sheet of 3/4" plywood is around $25 and a full sheet of OSB was arond $12 or $16 (can't remember).

What kind should I be using? I want more bang for my buck but not at the risk of ending up with something of poor quality.
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Old 01-07-2005, 04:59 PM   #2
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Weight might also be a consideration. Are you trying to match the original laminate?

I will be interested in the upcoming posts. I will try to repair the table ledge this spring. I will try gorilla glue first, then replace if need be. Our previous owners left a veneer sample in the trailer. I don't know if it is still made, but I have a maker, color, and number to search on.
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Old 01-07-2005, 05:03 PM   #3
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I would not use OSB, which is intended for wall sheathing or subfloor. A better material is MDF.
http://www.design-technology.org/mdf.htm
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Old 01-07-2005, 05:07 PM   #4
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Plywood is much stronger than OSB size for size. And certainly much lighter. For a table top, you have more finishing options with finish grade plywood.

3/4" plywood is not actually necessary. With some minimal framing you can use 1/2" for the dinette seats, or 3/8" with a bit more. My "double" bed has a 3/8" plywood platform.

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Old 01-07-2005, 05:33 PM   #5
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earlier post mentioned MDF. This is very heavy! Veneer core sheeting is much stronger than particle board. Plywood sometimes has a warp in it so I would be careful to make sure the piece you use is flat from the start. A table top isn't really fastened to anything that will restrain it from warping. If you apply a plastic laminate to the top surface of the table top it is probably a good idea to do the same on the bottom to prevent a warp.
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Old 01-07-2005, 06:08 PM   #6
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If I were making one for my unit it would be red oak ply with red oak solid for the edges, because my trailer is all oak inside. My table is oak trim with a laminate oak top. It doesn't look bad but its not as pretty as the newer tables that are not laminate. The birch plywood is very reasonable in price and the grain is so much tighter. It makes a nice table top as well. Wood has all of the upkeep problems but looks great, laminate looks good and has fewer upkeep issues.
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Old 01-07-2005, 06:27 PM   #7
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I went back and browsed the wood isle again. I saw thay had a full sheet of 3/4" birch laminate for $33.

That would be the way to go if I just go ahead and stain it and put some sort of polyurethane on it.

I cannot find any metal edging there (Home Depot) anyway. So I could just put some kind of wood edging on it with some glue and pin nails.

Whatever I do it has to support some weight when it's converted to a bed.

Argh... to many decisions.

Someone just tell me what to do
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Old 01-07-2005, 06:43 PM   #8
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There's a big difference between various plywoods. I've seen 9-ply Baltic Birch warp big time and it is supposed to be amoung the best for strength and stability. If it were me, I would try to use lumber core plywood. Lumber core plywood is often used for library shelving so it should be good for table tops assuming you are going to band the edge. Lumber core plywood should be available at your local specialty woods supplier.
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Old 01-07-2005, 06:48 PM   #9
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Tim's Dinette Project

Hi Tim,

I'm in the market for a dinette too but haven't really gotten into construction details yet. First here's a very handy link for table edging. Outwater Plastics will send you a HUGE free catalog. Check out "extrusions" section for edging.

http://www.outwater.com/outwater.html

Of course your table top needs to be very strong because it supports the middle of what is potentially a 2 person bed not to mention any gymnastics the kids may perform on it. I think that 3/4" birch plywood with doubled edges and probably an 3-4" wide rib running down the middle would be best. You already said that you prefere lamainate, and I do too for it's durability. If you don't laminate the underside at least seal it with varnish or polyurethane. That keeps the humidity from affecting just one side and causing the top to warp.

If your bench seats are going to be painted or stained 1/2" birch ply will give you a nice surface to finish and it will match your cabinets, but if you're going to fabric cover them (like I'm thinking) a lesser grade of plywood will do. I bet the total weight saving of using 1/2" instead of 3/4" plywood throughout would be less that 30 lbs but that weight is as far towards the tongue as possible thus multiplying it's ill affect. You could actually use 1/4" ply on the sides if all the strength is in your framing.

BTW, do you have a water tank under the front bed? What are you doing about that?

I'll be interested in your progress. Please keep us posted.

Steve



Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
I am trying to spec the wood out for my dinette table and seats.

I plan on using 3/4" material for the table top doubling up on the eding so I have something to work with. I want to put metal edging on it if I can find some. I plan on laminating is so the material does not have to be of finish quality.

A half sheet of 3/4" plywood is around $25 and a full sheet of OSB was arond $12 or $16 (can't remember).

What kind should I be using? I want more bang for my buck but not at the risk of ending up with something of poor quality.
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Old 01-07-2005, 07:12 PM   #10
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Thanks Steve,

That's really what I want to do. Because if I can figure out how to laminate, I want to redo the kitchen counters as well.

I already ordered the outwater catalog....
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Old 01-07-2005, 07:36 PM   #11
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I used 3/4" for the table top with a 13/16" extruded aluminum t-moulding from Outwater Plastics, no doubling up on the edge or extra supports. On ours, the tabletop is small (30"w X 36"l) and is supported along both 36" lengths by the bench seat and a table leg in the middle of the front edge - 6-9" or so. And in the table position along the wall just below the window.

The dinette benches are made with 1/4" verticals and 3/8" seating platforms. If I were to do it over again, I would use 1/4" on the seats too, as there is plenty of support from the framework below....the maximum span is only about 18".

I have posted lots of pictures in my gallery and on our website to show what I did. Even though ours has 'vintage styling' the pictures may help ~

Good luck with your project!

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Old 01-07-2005, 07:42 PM   #12
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Thanks for the info Shari. Your table looks great.

Was it hard to route the groove for the t-moulding? Any tips?

I like what you did with the fabric for the front and sides as well....

How thick is the padding that goes over the table when you make it into a bed? Is it comfortable?

My wife liked the bed the way it was, so I have to make sure the one I make is at least as nice!
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Old 01-07-2005, 07:47 PM   #13
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Personally I like new tasks that require me to self teach a skill and buy new tools but if you're not set up to router I'm sure that a local cabinet shop wouldn't charge too much just to stick on and trim one piece of Formica, especially if you've prepared it before hand. That's a good option also if you can't work outside this time of the year.

If you have a router the only other thing you need is a "flush trim bit" to trim the laminate to size once it's stuck to the table top. If you're only doing the top and not the edges it should be a breeze to learn the process on this project. I'd be glad to talk you through it but you've probably seen Norm and Bob Villa do it dozens of times.

Steve
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Old 01-07-2005, 07:55 PM   #14
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Thanks Steve,

I've read over and over the sites on how to, so I think I have a good grasp of it.

Unfortunatly I don't have the tools and I would invest im them, but for me this would be a one shot deal.

However, my cousin has a complete woodshop full of neat stuff. He is just too busy

So, I should be able to borrow what I need.

While waiting for good weather, I'm making a good plan.

I'm one of those guys who digs way too deep into stuff like this and actually see the work done in my head over and over way before I pick up a tool
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Old 01-07-2005, 08:19 PM   #15
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Lightbulb outwater plastics, COOL!

Steve,

Thanks for the tip on Outwater. I too, ordered the catalog! I think it will help to find a "flexible hinge" for on my 68 Overlander bathroom medicine chest door. I was taking a few things apart and the plastic hinge just snapped in two. Dryed out after sitting un-used for 10 years in Arizona.

Also, the tops of the underbed doors on the bins have the plastic cracking on them. I think this place will have something comparable for what I need!!!

I am so looking forward to some good warm weather!!! I'm dying to work on the A/S!! We've had tons of snow and it just keeps coming. No end in sight.

Best wishes on the dinette!

I just love this forum!!! If I can't be out "playing" with the A/S, I can at least make notes of things for when I can! Keep it up...all of you!!
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Old 01-07-2005, 08:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
I used 3/4" for the table top with a 13/16" extruded aluminum t-moulding from Outwater Plastics, no doubling up on the edge or extra supports.
So, just to get this right. If your use the tee molding you only need 3/4". If you plan on lamintating you need to double up the edging to give you the 1-1/2" to give you something to work with.

Does that sound right?

Also, do you glue the tee molding with wood glue, or just tap it in?
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Old 01-07-2005, 08:57 PM   #17
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There is a company in Tacoma WA that sells a product called richlite heres the link: www.richlite.com

This stuff is really srtong. It's made of wood fibers and somekind of impermiable resin. It was originally used to make ramps for skate board parks. Now it's sold as kitchen cutting boards and in 4 by 8 sheets for projects.
I have some - it is heat and water proof and looks like masonite - but it's totally different in composition. It's being used in high end kitchens and can be milled the same way wood can. My next counter or table product will be made of this stuff! Maybe you can use it on your dinette project.

It costs more than plywood - but consider the labor you will put into this project - don't cut corners on materials....
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Old 01-07-2005, 09:29 PM   #18
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Hey Tim,

That's an idea! A dinette that converts into a bed that converts into an indoor skateboard ramp. That would certainly increase your resale value

I'm getting punchy now...goodnight.

Steve
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Old 01-07-2005, 09:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
So, just to get this right. If your use the tee molding you only need 3/4". If you plan on laminating you need to double up the edging to give you the 1-1/2" to give you something to work with.

Does that sound right?

Also, do you glue the tee molding with wood glue, or just tap it in?
It helps with the thickness but you could get away with 3/4. Its done all the time with back splashes and such. The extra width gives it a better bonding surface and the end of most plywoods is often not as smooth as the top so you need all glue surface you can get. It you used a filler on the end grain and machined it flat with the router it can be done.

A Tip if you do try to go with the 3/4 thickness is to do the edge FIRST then the top. The reason is the top will help protect the edge from snags. Other then that Laminate is much easier to work with then most realize. I have done several projects and very happy with the results. Attached is a coffee table I made.

Now the flips side is you could use 1/2 inch thing and put a 2 inch inch strip around the edges and a couple strips down the middle to add a little bit of strength and loose a few pounds in the weight department.

That material Janet posted looks quite inter sting. That stuff you can take a 1/4 round or a detail shaper in the router and dress the edge and not need to do any other finish work. I was concerned about the weight vs the stability but it seems to have the same working features of a better grade or 3/4 ply. VERY interesting stuff. I may have to check into that myself.

here is the table. The top is actually a piece of counter top that was already Formica covered. If you sand the finish off to give someplace for the adhesive to bite you can Formica over Formica. That will let you easily retain the already cut counter top if its only problem is the finish is worn. Throw some 120 grit on a palm sander and go to town on it.
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Old 01-07-2005, 11:06 PM   #20
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Hey 59toaster, that looks great.

Nice job!
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