Unbelievable! It's one thing after another!!

[mello mike]

Recently had a new subfloor put it in by Oasis RV. They did a great job!! A rock solid repair! Two weeks ago I put in new flooring and last weekend started to put the bathroom back together.

After putting in the vanity sink cabinet today I noticed that cabinet no longer fits snug to the radius walls in the back!!! WTH!!! There's about a 3/4 inch gap on either side of the vanity.

Evidently, when Oasis put the walls back in they made them really snug, effectively pushing them back about 3/4 inch. I'm really bummed out right now. What do I do now? Pull the walls out (not even sure that will work) or put some kind of rubber trim around the radius walls to fill in the gap? Help!!! Any ideas????

[flyfshr]

WOW!! That is definitely a WTH moment. Can you post a pic or two of your dilemma so we can see what you're looking at?

Brad
FF

[Jim & Susan]

If it's just a cabinet, can you replace the sides of the cabinet that are too small (short?) with a new wooden side? Use the originals as a pattern, but make them a little deeper/longer?

Jim

[Minno]

Or just cover the sides with a veneer? Or trim at the back side to cover the gap?

Chris

[3Ms75Argosy]

some thoughts.. how thick is the flooring that you put in.. is it under the cabinet legs? If so, that added height changes the geometry of the curve of the wall vs. your cabinet... if the flooring is the cause, just shave the bottoms by the thickness of the flooring... when Oasis put in the new flooring, it went UNDER the c-channel, correct? If it was laid on top of the old flooring, then again, you'll have issues.

Is your trailer and floor level? Does jacking up the rear of the trailer put things into better alignment? Then jack it up, install the cabinets, and then let it down. These things do flex front / rear... esp a 31'er.....

You can find some white rubber trim to seal the gaps.. put 3/4" is a lot. Post pics!

Hard to imagine installing the walls made any difference.. if you're talking about the interior skins, they mount directly to the ribs... no way to change that...
Marc

[mello mike]

Here's a pic of the problem. As you can see the sink counter no longer fits snugly against the walls on both sides.

[Jim & Susan]

Ah, different problem than I was think of. Is this the only place that's short? In my '73, the tub fits underneath there and a small shelf fits along the wall in front of it.

Maybe some kind of wooden backer material treated with epoxy, then painted to match?

Jim

[mello mike]

Yeah, I'm thinking of something very similar to what you recommended, Jim. I'm thinking of using rubber floor trim (something that is bendable) that comes in numerous colors. If it's thick enough I think that will work.

[FLYNCLD]

It is hard to tell from the picture, but does the cabinet still line up at the same HEIGHT that it was before, because if NOT, then the new subfloor plus the new flooring is probably thicker than before the repairs. This will raise the height of the cabinet, and because the walls curve, push it away from the wall, as has been mentioned. If it is now higher than before, you might try cutting out the new flooring (not the subfloor) just where it is under the cabinet and see if that helps. It doesn't take much difference in height to make a big difference in how things fit the curve. Believe me I know!

[3Ms75Argosy]

"on both sides".. is it this way on the streetside too? Could it be that it just needs to flex out all the way around when you rivet it on? Maybe it just shrunk "in" when it wasn't attached? Is it this way on just the sides or in the rear as well (the part that goes under the window)?

I just visited your blog... perhaps when the rear segment was replaced, it's a slightly different curvature than before? I do doubt it though, as the piece replaced appears higher than the where the cabinet is. I'm going with the plastic curved inward a bit, and just needs to stretch out.
Marc

[Jim & Susan]

I need to have a look-see at mine tonight. The seam between those two wall panels fit together in a weird way. After looking at your pic again, I'm going to assume that Oasis removed the lower section of the wall to put the new sub floor in, correct? I'll bet they cinched up the upper and lower panels incorrectly. Let me look at mine '73 and I'll see if I can figure out something more.

Jim

[mello mike]

Thanks, guys. Actually the height is exactly the same as before so I know that the height isn't the problem. The holes along the back wall under the window and about a foot beyond line up perfectly.

The walls needed to be removed to install the new subfloor and new C-channel, so I'm thinking that the walls got out of whack when they were reinstalled. If you look at the walls they are not plumb anymore the radius in the rear actually caves in (concave) more than before. The Starboard (streetside) has about a 3/4 inch gap while the Port side has about a 1/4 inch gap.

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by mello mike

Thanks, guys. Actually the height is exactly the same as before so I know that the height isn't the problem. The holes along the back wall under the window and about a foot beyond line up perfectly.

The walls needed to be removed to install the new subfloor and new C-channel, so I'm thinking that the walls got out of whack when they were reinstalled. If you look at the walls they are not plumb anymore the radius in the rear actually caves in (concave) more than before. The Starboard (streetside) has about a 3/4 inch gap while the Port side has about a 1/4 inch gap.

Mello Mike - The holes line up perfectly. BUT they aren't screwed/riveted together. If they removed the shelf, could they have BENT the vertical part inward to separate it from the wall? In your picture, it looks smooshed forward a bit. Could it possibly be as simple as getting some screws, fitting a plastic wall anchor into the back surface and easing the two surfaces back together?

Going to go get the "Girl Toolkit" again.....
Best of luck. Paula Ford

"Curses, Foiled Again!" - Snidely Whiplash

[VIKING]

If they had just replaced the subfloor you probably wouldn't have such a large gap, but when they removed the C-channel they probably lost the original shape of the wall. It's very possible that your trailer is now wider in the back than what it was.
I would expect a bill from Oasis for the additional square footage.
Short of taking the back apart again there's not much you can do with the shell. It will take some fooling around to make the vanity fit again. I'd try pushing it to the wall and riveting it on to see if it will hold. If not, make or buy a welt as you were discussing before. The rubber cove base stuff is a good choice.

Best of luck to you.
Rich

[Melody Ranch]

Oasis has a good reputation here....I would think you could get some good input....maybe help....from them.

[Distantdrummer]

One of the vendors that is on here sells a flex vinyl welt that is made to hide/cover just such gaps. Of course I am not saying it will fill a 3/4 inch gap. But look and see.
If not maybe you can jockey the gaps to nearer 1/2 inch each.
Don't have time to look up which vendor, sorry.
The flexible base material that you mention is useful in many McGiver situations, but not sure it will work as a welt. But there are other vinyl moulding items that might work as a filler to be found at most box stores. Another fix might be using wooden screen moulding or lattice to wrap around the curved walls. I'd not get the finger jointed stuff if I were going to bend it much. If need be kerf it slightly (shallow) every inch or two to ease the bend. You'd still need a welt to sit atop the filler I think.

[FLYNCLD]

I agree, check with Oasis first, they will probably be able to help you. Either way I advise to fix the problem not the gap. Time and vibration will not be nice to any fillers or the cabinet they are attached to!!