Tambour Glue?

[74Sovereign]

Has anyone ever tried to "mend" tambour? There are 3 places under my sink where it's come apart. Other than that- it looks just great but it's kind of a pain to have to pull different sections to get to the shelves. I'd really rather not have to take it apart so I'm wondering if there might be some kind of glue or something that would work.
Thanks so much!!

[thenewkid64]

I have read somewhere about re-backing the tambour, you may want to look on the VAC site. I did a search here and was not able to find it.

As I remember the owner took the tambour out, laid it out on a table, squared it up and applied new duckcloth canvas to within 3/4 inch of the edge. I do not know what was used as a glue.

[Jerry Sulkin]

I used 3M spray on contact adhesive on mine two years ago and they're holding up great.

[smily]

I had not even thought of it until now............

I also have seperated Tambour doors in the same location.

I am going to precut a piece of canvas to fit, (minus the 3/4").

I will then coat the canvas with 3M spary adhesive, ( I have used this stuff for upholstery and it is sticky stuff), and apply it to the door while in place.

I may even use Contact glue since it will be dry when I apply the canvas to the door. (requires coating both surfaces, canvas and back of door and allow to dry) Be careful because they dont call it contact glue for nothin'.

I understand that some people will not be able to do this due to the location of the seperation. If the seperation is near the leading end, (coil end), then the door will have to be in the closed position. This would prevent access.

Fortunately, my seperation is in the middle and I think I maight be able to pull this off, er put this on, that is..............

I will post results when I complete the job

Smily

[Ken J]

If its cloth backed you can probably do as mentioned above - I've used elmers glue and artists canvas. However if its the older paper backed you will probably have to take it out and redo the whole door. Paper gets stiff and you have to "break" each slat to get it to roll well.

When my big doors break, I'll probably take the whole cabinet apart and put new counter tops on.

[smily]

Even though I am told that my AS model is supposed to have paper back, I have found that it is actually canvas backed.

Lucky me.

Smily

[niftypkg]

Soverign74, I did it!! Best way: take the door off, and repair the whole door, eventually it may need it. You decide?? My under range door was seperated in several places and stiff elsewhere. It's easy to remove the door. Just two rivets and a year of yoga!! The following directions are to overlay the canvas or paper backing NOT to remove it!!
I cut all the slats and filed the edges parallel , that's where all the work is. What you are doing is cleaning up the cut edges so that you can lay them edge to edge neately. Place the slats on a flat plane [ I used a piece of masonite] finished side down. I also used a straight edge[important] and square to line everthing up. I placed duct tape sticky side up[held the duct tape in place with duct tape] and placed the slats on top to keep them in place. The finished side is now stuck to the duct tape and the duct tape is stuck to the table or masonite.
Then I covered everthing with doubled side carpet tape [HD stuff] [leave about 1/4 uncovered top and bottom,verticle, but cover completly side to side. Now you should have all the slats stuck to each other and the second carpet backing facing you. Next remove the backing[of the carpet tape] on one half the slats and place the whatever[you chose to use for the overlay[ on the exposed sticky side and smooth out the overlay as best you can to keep wrinkes to a min. I used a piece of dacron. Cut it over size and trim later. Now fold back the loose piece left,remove the rest of the carpet tape backing and finish the next half. Don't extend the tape to the edges , leave about 1/4 inch to keep the track clean. Don't know if spray adhesive would work!! Whatever you use must stick to the old backing[left on] and the new backing The handle on the door will have to come off, three rivets and it is a pain . E-mail if you want more info. Tom

[smily]

Nifty,
A picture tells a thousand words.

Smily

[niftypkg]

Smily, got to get one of them there digital things. Of the thousand words--- I left out all the cuse words. Tom

[74Sovereign]

Thanks for the tips!
And where exactly are the two rivets you remove to take out the door? Sounds like I'm gonna have a great winter project!!

[niftypkg]

Soverign, I assume you are talking about the door under the range. No problem. The lower track is suppored on the left side by the corner post on the left. There are two rivets under the veneer that go through that lower track . You have to cut those rivets by slipping a hack saw blade between the post and the support. Don't cut the veneer. Your are going to cut the rivets in two. When they are cut the lower track will fall and you can remove the door by slipping it to the left out of the track!! The spiral support has a plywood block that fits under the track support at that end. That post will not move and you don't have to replace the rivets. When finished you will cut a small block, say 2x2" [whatever] and 'fit' it under the spiral support on the floor, behind the corner post. It just sits there jamed under the spiral to support the track. Sounds difficult. When you examine that corner you'll see. Cutting the rivets is tedious!!! Forgot to mention I remember two small hex head wood screws going up under the spiral support and two long screws going through the center post. You'll need 1/4 socket to remove them the hex screws. The tough part is filing off the rough edges of the slats where you either cut or break them apart. I used a box cutter and cut them apart. Have fun!! I took out the spirals and washed them, 'You're not camping until you're miserable' Tom