Re-attaching cabinets to the interior skin.

[Andy R]

I recently purchased a 1961 Bambi that has seen some rough trails in the past. The cabinets have been rigged by cutting a piece of plywood to fit the gap between the cabinets and the interior skin.

From what I understand, I should just move the cabinets over 1/2" and re-attach them. Has anyone out there done this before? If so what advise can you give? What type hardware should I use to attach the cabinets to the interior skin? Aluminum screws? If so what kind? Where is the best place to get them?

Thanks,

Andy

[JrnymnJay]

I would not use screws, but simply find some pop/blind rivets that will fit snug in the holes and rivet the cabinets back to the skin.

I'm assuming the original cabinets were attached that way. My '56 Overlander cabinets were direct riveted to the skin.

Jay

[ALANSD]

Andy from inland rv posted elsewhere on screws for the interior, a while back. I have used 1/2" aluminum screws for drapery rods, and reattaching interior trim and they have worked out well.
The hardest screw for me to find was the machine screws that hold the window latches on. They are like 6/32" and 1/4" long machine screws.
The first time I put a screw into an area not too far from the skin, I was sweating it.

[PeterH-350LE]

When is your birthday. Alan, I want to give you a rivet gun.
If you would have seen the number of wires running next to the door frame in my MH, you would never use a screw again. Screws have a very sharp tip, rivets don't.

[ALANSD]

I get the picture. I have a pop rivet gun I have owned for 20+ years and haven't used for 20+ years. It still in the original bag. I guess I will be breaking it out after Mystic Springs! This is a skill I need to add to my repertoire.
Actually I only screwed stuff in where there already were screws...like the trim mountings in the bedroom,etc.
Oh my birthday is in May.

[Cat]

May I add something to all the good info that's been posted on this thread?

First, when you remove old screws...be sure you fill the old hole with Vulchem to prevent any 'transmitted' water leaks.
* Just fill the hole with a fingertip of the Vulchem and wipe off the excess with the same fingertip.*

If your new rivet will go in the same (old) hole.......OR if you have to predrill a hole for the rivet---fill the hole with Vulchem first and follow the (*steps*) above...then rivet right into the 'wiped-off' Vulchem.

This will assure you have no gaps/spaces left beyond what the rivet takes up in the old or pre-drilled hole, and by using Vulchem, you know that 'down the pike' it won't crack and chip away from movement of the rig.

This advise is via Steve H. at AirstreamDreamsDOTcom..outlet for Vulchem.
(this is not an advertisement....just good advise, tried and true).
I actually have a major complaint about Vulchum...and that is why don't they provide it in different sizes..? since once the tube is opened ... it can't be saved. So, if you only have a small job, you're going to waste a WHOLE big tube! Doing this might not be as profitable for them......but if they sold more (sizes)...they'd make more profits in volume. Anyhow...Vulchem is a GREAT product...especially for Airstreams since it comes in a Grey colour.

my 2cents worth.......Cat