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01-23-2010, 08:06 PM
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#21
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Rivet Master 
1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Yuk! That is a mess! And way too dark, IMHO. I picked up on a post by Uwe (one of our resident geniuses here on the forums) in his '63 thread. I have been going thru the birch at our local Lowes for the last couple of years and every time one of 'em looks nice, I grab it. There does seem to be a wide range of looks when it come to the birch plywood. In case I didn't mention, this is plain old 4' x 8' birch ply. I think the stain helps the look a bunch.
Thanks for the advice on the UV issue.
Jim
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Agreed! Way too dark.  In fact I probably wouldn't have stained the birch that you have at all, but I'm leaning toward someting really light for mine.
I was originally thinking ash or birch finished completely natural. I have some friends that make custom corporate jet interiors who have offered to let me pick through their veneer scraps. I saw a piece of birdseye maple that started me thinking, but it is a premium veneer. There is a lot of area in a 34' Excella too. I'm trying to come up with the extra cash for that, but it may take a while.
__________________
Vaughan
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01-23-2010, 08:18 PM
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#22
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Remember, Safety Third

1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vswingfield
..... I have some friends that make custom corporate jet interiors who have offered to let me pick through their veneer scraps. I saw a piece of birdseye maple that started me thinking, but it is a premium veneer......
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Now THAT would be a great resource!
Jim
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01-23-2010, 11:19 PM
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#23
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Rivet Master 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
1972 23' Safari
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,362
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Staining the easy part
Used the Minwax Provential 215 Stain. Just rub it on and its done quickly. It would be a mess to do in the trailer. Used Red Oak veneers and glued over most of the plastic panels. Then added a coat of urethane to protect it. That I did after install with a spray can and a brush.
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01-25-2010, 09:53 AM
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#24
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4 Rivet Member 
1970 27' Overlander
ARLINGTON
, TEXAS
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 335
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Jim,
Thank you for all the great info about your wood replacement. My 70 model does have the plastic veener...hate it. I love yours and definately will replace the plastic walls. Mine is mostly gutted. In the process of replacing the floor rot and adding a grey tank. Looking forward to the day I can move on to a more fun project. Are you replacing your kitchen cabinet too?
__________________
He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion...
Taylor 1/20/96 - 11/28/08
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01-25-2010, 10:12 AM
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#25
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Rivet Master 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
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Wow, the interior is looking great, Jim! Has this been posted on your other thread yet? Did I miss it? That birch looks fantastic. You've done a great job at picking through and finding some very nicely figured pieces.
And I agree with the others-- keep it all closed and dark to protect the wood. If you're doing custom curtains, you might consider blackout lining on the backside to protect the good front side that shows to the interior. I still need to get some photos up on my thread and blog, but after they finished my mattress covers and bolster covers, I had my "sweatshop" create some new curtains in the bedroom, and they lined the curtains in this manner. It completely blocks the light so no chance of sun damage, plus you can sleep in as late as you like whilst camping!
-Marcus
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01-25-2010, 10:56 AM
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#26
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Remember, Safety Third

1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utee94
Wow, the interior is looking great, Jim! Has this been posted on your other thread yet? Did I miss it? That birch looks fantastic. You've done a great job at picking through and finding some very nicely figured pieces.
And I agree with the others-- keep it all closed and dark to protect the wood. If you're doing custom curtains, you might consider blackout lining on the backside to protect the good front side that shows to the interior. I still need to get some photos up on my thread and blog, but after they finished my mattress covers and bolster covers, I had my "sweatshop" create some new curtains in the bedroom, and they lined the curtains in this manner. It completely blocks the light so no chance of sun damage, plus you can sleep in as late as you like whilst camping!
-Marcus
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Thanks! I haven't updated the Full Monte thread yet. I was going to wait until I get the cedar installed in the clothes closet and the cupboard shelves in. The doors are going to wait while we build the new "gaucho" type seating area up front. Eric has a really nice piece of cherry that he's going to trim out around the units in the pictures above. This is truely the fun part of the resto.
Thanks for the tips on the curtains. Susan and I are still arguing, er, discussing how to make those.  She wants me to hire those out, I want her to take a shot at it first. Maybe I'll have to learn how to sew (Danger Will Robinson, Danger!).
Jim
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01-25-2010, 10:57 AM
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#27
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Remember, Safety Third

1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WILDRTEXAS
Jim,
.......Looking forward to the day I can move on to a more fun project. Are you replacing your kitchen cabinet too?
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Yep, it'll be built along the same lines as the other woodwork, but we don't have a final plan yet.
Jim
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01-25-2010, 02:16 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Yep, it'll be built along the same lines as the other woodwork, but we don't have a final plan yet.
Jim
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I've just begun mulling over designs in my mind for the galley cabinetry myself. I am pretty sure I'm going to go down to a 1-bowl sink to gain back some much-needed counter space, and I'm going to build in a counter-height pull-out pantry, inspired by the work done by Uwe on his 63. Eliminating the extra sink bowl, as well as removing the old furnace, should give me enough room for this addition. I hope!
On the other side, the tall pantry will still be used for some food and dishware items, but it will also house the microwave (as it currently does) and serve as the media closet where the satellite receiver and DVD/Blu-Ray player will be remotely located.
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01-25-2010, 04:23 PM
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#29
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4 Rivet Member 
1968 24' Tradewind
1959 17' Pacer
Vintage Kin Owner
holly springs
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 405
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Hey Jim
best two things the world and I have to decline. Work most weekends and this is one of them,bummer. Why do you have to live all the way down there in McDonough, move to canton and we can do that on a regular basis!
Kevin
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01-27-2010, 08:55 PM
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#30
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New Member
1973 Argosy 26
tampa
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4
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cabinet maker
some polys are exterior grade and have uv protection.some interior polys will actually turn yellow with sunlight and damage the wood. i used a fiberglass coating on my panels but that is very expensive. my suggestion ,and this is what i am doing to my argosy,is tint your windows.i am doing mine dark as possible but any degree of tint will be very effective as for most of them have uv protection
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