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Old 07-08-2019, 05:54 PM   #1
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Need help/solution for stripped cabinet mounting screw..pls

Over on my other thread I was talking about my loose overhead cabinet, and poor quality cabinet craftsmanship found simply because my cabinet at one side is loose..

So Iím concentrating on the loose screw for this thread. Took me 1/2 hour to back it out with needle nose plyer.

My problem is two fold. The wood side hole has wore out and screw sunk in further. Click image for larger version

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This is where the screw should sit in the hole. The other one was buried much deeper.

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The wall skin side hole has elongated and widened so the screw no longer holds.

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Without having to take off the whole cabinet, what is the best way to re- mount a new screw?

There is another mount hole not used 6 inches back (not forward which would have solved the issue) but if used the screw would end up going through the window frame so no can do.

I could go larger thickness, with a washer on the wood side to make up the 1/16th inch loss of wood, but fear it would strip out the hole on the skin pretty fast.

What about using a Gregg jig to make a new angled hole beside it? If I can clamp the jig in that spot? And land just before the blind mount. So no fear of hitting any wires.

If I canít get a jig in there, how do you make an angle counter sink hole?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-08-2019, 07:21 PM   #2
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As you probably know, these are "pocket" screws and a Kregg jig is used for this type joinery. There are different jigs for different applications. I can't get a feel for what you are trying to do based on your pictures. Maybe if the pictures weren't so close up, we could get a better idea of what and where the problem is.
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Old 07-08-2019, 07:28 PM   #3
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You could fill with JB QuickWood and re-drill. It’s great stuff.
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Old 07-08-2019, 07:50 PM   #4
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I have experience in that I was in the furniture business for quite some time. I often repaired stripped screws using Elmers wood glue and toothpicks, or a properly cut and shaped piece of wood or dowel to fill the stripped hole.

Use only the fat center part of the toothpick, cut several to length to fit in to the hole, apply glue liberally and shove toothpicks in hole, run screw in till tight. She'll set up real nice and tight when the glue dries.

Or, shave/whittle a piece of wood from a 2x4 or some other piece of wood, possibly the right sized dowel rod would fit perfect, apply the glue, shove and/or hammer the dowel rod in to place.

Make sure to cut the dowel, or whatever you use, to the proper length, and make sure it fits tight in the hole. I've used a hammer and punch to tap the wood in to the hole, and the wood glue is essential.
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Old 07-08-2019, 08:30 PM   #5
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Hi all,

I understand what you are all saying about fixing the wood hole, but what about the aluminum wall skin hole that has been trashed, in which the screw goes into.

I blew up the picture even more so you can see the hole. If it were just the hole made a bit wider, I could have gone with a larger diameter screw - but it is longer as well - do you think it would hold without slipping up and down in the hole?

Or do you think I have to make a whole new hole both in the wood and the aluminum skin?

I have room between the existing hole and the roller blind bracket to the left.

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The good thing is that you don't see this mess once the roller blind is up - thank goodness.
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Old 07-09-2019, 05:58 AM   #6
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Would it be possible to put a patch over the old hole (riveted or epoxied), then re-drill and re-mount?
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:28 AM   #7
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Take a piece of aluminum foil and roll it into a wedge shaped plug bigger than the hole. Push it into the hole and pack it in as tightly as possible. This forms a new surface for the screw to grab. Put things back together screwing directly into the old hole thatís now filled with compacted aluminum foil. This has worked well for me with all the screws that have loosened over the years on my AS cabinet hardware. Once done, Iíve never had to redo any of the fixes.
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Old 07-09-2019, 12:49 PM   #8
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Use a rivnut

For $20 to $25 you can purchase a rivnut tool and fasteners. A good hardware store will have this item. It works like a pop rivet tool, but the rivet is threaded in the center to accept a machine screw. As you tighten the screw the fastener will expand more and be very solid - like a drywall or concrete anchor.
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Old 07-09-2019, 02:06 PM   #9
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Thanks for the last two suggestions. I tried the aluminum but alas it just kept going into the wall void. The hole is not round it is a long oval. Iím sure if it was round I might have had better luck.

I found a post about rivnuts and said awesome...but I would have to remove the cabinet totally to get it it in. I donít have a man partner to stand and hold it and did not want to redo all the wiring to the speakers and lights that run into the cabinet.

So..... I drilled a brand new hole between the existing hole and the shade blind bracket...still a bugger to do in the space but worked like a charm saved me a lot of headache in removing the whole cabinet.

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Put in L brackets on the three supports, to raise the underside so that the piece the factory forgot to screw in could be finished off. Could not get it totally flush as the wood had settled after all these years not being screwed.
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Even though it is only cosmetic it drove me nuts. No more annoying piece hanging out every time I look up when sitting on my couch.

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On the list of many maintenance items is waxing and polishing my interior aluminum-ceiling not finished yet, arms tired last night ug.

Just have to clean up the sliders and put them back in..

Thanks for all your input and help!
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:56 AM   #10
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That's the best fix you could have made without removing the cabinet.The tight space to work in made an aggravating job even worse I'm sure.The angled Kregg screwing arrangement complicated things even more. Well done!
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Old 07-10-2019, 01:00 PM   #11
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Flooring fiasco!

OMG sometimes life just does not give you a break...okay they missed the delivery - good for an extra week, then delayed again. So now my free layer - floor that is will be on holiday.

So they said they would check with their contractors see who could do the job. Two teams said no and one said yes with a $510.00 charge. And not sure if they could do it in the next two weeks....

Are you kidding me

My response.."how about this....cancel the order! The grey floor paint looks awesome about now!

He said that they thought that was the best idea even though it was now cut and on its way in 1.5 weeks. He said because we have messed you around we have no problem giving you a full refund.

He said he thought by the photos I sent the painted floor looked pretty good.

So for now - I'm going back in - fill the screw heads and bought a 4L can and will give it another 2-3 coats for durability.

Get my interior back in and worry about the next major job of getting her welded up and brakes changed out. At least the flooring refund will now pay for the brakes LOL.

Maybe it is a good thing - I can check her out in the fall to make sure there are no unexpected leaks, and the floor repair is holding up fine.

With the extra coats - it may look even better. I might just stencil in grout lines and done with it. Find a few cool carpet runners that match my accent red and black interior and call it a day.

If I do sell it - then the next owner can choose their own flooring ROFL.

Just my vent for the day.

Off to find out where my dang fridge is at - been in service now for 2 weeks.
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