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lucymcdog · 01-22-2011, 08:23 AM

I've been having a problem with how to figure out sizes of things - Here's my dilemma:

The width of the trailer is 85". I wanted my streetside bench to connect to the galley cabinet which is 24" (and have a smooth transition - not stick out). That's ok since the benches need to be 24". However, if I make the bench on the curbside 24" then that means my table will be 37" - which seems kind of wide.

So, what would look best? To have the 37" x 36" table and the benches 24" off the wall (and even with the galley cabinet) or to bring the benches out 3.5" on either side so that the table is more "normal" size at 30 inches? Another option (my husband hates it when I come up with lots of different options)

would be to have the streetside bench be even with the galley cabinet and add the difference behind the curbside bench which would put the table off-center.

What to do, what to do? I LIKE options so give me more!

Lindy

Oh, and yes, the canyon road was absolutely breathtaking with all the ice on the trees and snow on the ground. Really magical...

SpaceEgg · 01-22-2011, 09:53 AM

Off-center centerpieces (like tables) look terrible. They slowly drive me insane. I would wake up every morning and curse the fact that I didn't center it.

I understand the desire for streamlines, especially in small places like trailers. Why don't you challenge yourself and curve the streetside booth out away from the galley counter so the edges aren't right angles but you get the table centered?

Regarding the table size - it's been my experience when camping that you never have enough table space. The floor gets dirty from tracking the outside in, and there's always one more thing you want to set down so you can use your hands to do something else but never enough counter or table space. 37"x36" does seem a little large, but you might end up being thankful for the extra surface area.

If you cut the table shorter, center it, and bring out the booths 4", I doubt you'll ever see that 4" that the booth sticks out farther than the galley counter. Keep in mind the booth is recessed, so even if it sticks out a little at shin-level, the majority of the counter (the cabinet face and the counter top) will appear that it recesses into the empty space of the booth.

I love that idea of the table on the door that someone else posted.

Good luck! Post photos!

Fyrzowt · 01-22-2011, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Regarding the table size - it's been my experience when camping that you never have enough table space. The floor gets dirty from tracking the outside in, and there's always one more thing you want to set down so you can use your hands to do something else but never enough counter or table space. 37"x36" does seem a little large, but you might end up being thankful for the extra surface area.

This was my thought as well. You would be able to sit opposite someone and still have room for serving bowls, a computer, books, etc between you. I wouldn't shave the table size based on "normal".
My 2 cents.

TG Twinkie · 01-22-2011, 10:28 AM

I centered the table in the trailer and built the seat boxes so they accomodate the 24" cushions (refer to my previous post). When you factor in the additional width of the seatback supports there should not be that much space left. With a 76" long bed; 23" seat+30" table +23" seat, that only leaves 9". When you build the seat back supports they will take at least 6" of the remaining 9"; 3" on each side.
I would assume you measured across the trailer just to the right of the door opening. I don't know how far forward you will build the seat, but I would assume that the table will be fastened to the front wall. You must take into consideration the curved corners in the front.
Look closely at the pics I posted and you will see the seat bottoms are longer than the seat backs. This is because of the corners. When the cushions are in place it is not visible. the seat back cushions are the same width as the seat bottom cushions.
If you make the table wider than 30", you will have to make the adjustment to the seat cushion dimensions as well as the seat back cushion dimensions to be able to make the bed up without spaces between the cushions or at one end.

TG Twinkie · 01-22-2011, 10:51 AM

Here is another pic. If I remember right my trailer is 89" between the walls, just to the right of the door. So I had 13" of total space difference.
As you can see, with the seat back supports there is not much left. The shelf behind each seat back is only about 4" wide at the widest point and gets narrower going forward. I wish I had better photos to show you, but this id the best I can do.

Fyrzowt · 01-22-2011, 11:18 AM

Here is a thread about Pizzachop's dinette conversion. It has dimensions that may help you out. Browse his photos, he has a number of related pics.
Hope it's helpful.
Dave

Dinette frame - Here are the dimensions of the frame. Used 3/4" birch plywood, notched and interlocked perpendicularly Photo Gallery

lucymcdog · 01-23-2011, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpaceEgg

Why don't you challenge yourself and curve the streetside booth out away from the galley counter so the edges aren't right angles but you get the table centered?

Yeah, right. CURVE WOOD???

I'm doing good to get a square corner, much less a curve! I like the idea but am not sure I can do it. Want to give some instructions? I'm a willing student. Building stuff is really hard for me - give me a good electrical or plumbing problem any day over trying to build something.

But! We are making progress - and maybe I'll have enough done to post pictures tomorrow.

And did you know that NOTHING in an airstream is straight or square???

Jim Foster · 01-23-2011, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Minno

Hi Lindy,

Here's a link to some sliding door tracks:

4 Foot Plastic Sliding Door Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Chris

I used similar tracks, however was I was able to buy tracks that went one piece from side to side.

I built the framework so that both the upper and lower tracks are trapped in place by the trim on the front of the unit. neither track is held in place by anything else. The upper track is held up by the doors in which they are sliding. If for any reason I want to remove the doors, I remove half a dozen screws and take the trim off and the doors, track and all, fall out forward.

As I said in an earlier post, the construction went very fast. What I didn't say was that the planning and measuring went on and on. By the time I actually started construction, everything was planned to the last screw.

As far as moving the water tank, the dinette is for two people. The tank is no problem. Also, the fill is in the front just over the tank, and the plumbing was all in the right place and done. Why mess.

Jim Foster · 01-23-2011, 04:22 PM

One other thing.

I made the doors from the 1/8" door skin plywood. I cut eight doors and laminated two together to make them 1/4 inch, the right thickness for the track I used. I laminated them in one stack. They have never warped or bent the slightest. I drilled 1" finger holes in the doors used on the inside of the track, and installed small wooden knobs on the outside doors.

The whole thing has worked very well for ten years so far.

lucymcdog · 01-23-2011, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Foster

I built the framework so that both the upper and lower tracks are trapped in place by the trim on the front of the unit. neither track is held in place by anything else. The upper track is held up by the doors in which they are sliding. If for any reason I want to remove the doors, I remove half a dozen screws and take the trim off and the doors, track and all, fall out forward.

I found some tracks at the lumber yard and was wondering how to install them so they wouldn't show. They are brown ugly plastic. Do you have a picture of how yours are installed with the trim? The sliding cabinet doors (that were originally white with gold speckled formica - we changed them out, needless to say) were held in place with a really nice metal track that included the trim. I wasn't able to find anything like that so went with the plastic track but didn't know how to "hide" the track so it wouldn't show. If you just have trim on the front, what holds them in at the back, inside the cabinet?

You are right about the planning of the dinette. That takes more time than the actual construction itself. And just figuring out how to make things work -- it makes your head hurt!

Jim Foster · 01-23-2011, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lucymcdog

I found some tracks at the lumber yard and was wondering how to install them so they wouldn't show. They are brown ugly plastic. Do you have a picture of how yours are installed with the trim? The sliding cabinet doors (that were originally white with gold speckled formica - we changed them out, needless to say) were held in place with a really nice metal track that included the trim. I wasn't able to find anything like that so went with the plastic track but didn't know how to "hide" the track so it wouldn't show. If you just have trim on the front, what holds them in at the back, inside the cabinet?

You are right about the planning of the dinette. That takes more time than the actual construction itself. And just figuring out how to make things work -- it makes your head hurt!

No detailed photo. The bottom shelf of the cabinet sits on top of the back half of the 2x2 frame. The track sits on the front half of the frame, and the 1/8" thick trim is screwed to the front of the 2x2 extending above the edge just far enough to cover the front edge of the track, thus trapping the track between the front edge of the shelf and the trim piece.

On the top I added a strip of wood to the back side of the under side of the upper 2x2 frame, leaving enough space for the upper track. Works just like the bottom.

TG Twinkie · 01-23-2011, 10:16 PM

Hi Lindy; Keep meaning to ask what software you used to make your drawing. I'm looking forward to seeing the progress you are making.

lucymcdog · 01-23-2011, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Hi Lindy; Keep meaning to ask what software you used to make your drawing. I'm looking forward to seeing the progress you are making.

I just did it in Word 2010 using "shapes" and "text boxes".

Progress is being made but is s--l--o--w.....

lucymcdog · 01-25-2011, 08:10 PM

What kind of wall mount is good to use to attach the table to the wall? I've looked at VTS and PPL and their little two-piece mount looks good but in order to take the table down you have to slide it out. I don't think I would be able to slide it out without hitting the benches. Another one they have is a hinged mount. And then there is always the pedestal leg that goes in the center (my least favorite).

Can anybody recommend one over the other or suggest something else?

TG Twinkie · 01-25-2011, 10:04 PM

The hinge looks like the best alternative to me. I had the slide type in my old Shasta and it was a bit of a pain. You don't have to have a pedestal mount. You can go with a fold up leg. That is what I have.
Are you planning on using it for a bed quite often?
How is the wood working coming along?

casarodante · 01-25-2011, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lucymcdog

What kind of wall mount is good to use to attach the table to the wall? I've looked at VTS and PPL and their little two-piece mount looks good but in order to take the table down you have to slide it out. I don't think I would be able to slide it out without hitting the benches. Another one they have is a hinged mount. And then there is always the pedestal leg that goes in the center (my least favorite).

Can anybody recommend one over the other or suggest something else?

The second one, the hinge, is what is my father used in one of his Airstreams. I remember he also put one on the outside of the trailer by the wheel well so we could take the table outside to eat.

cruiser54 · 01-26-2011, 05:02 AM

my bed....

Greetings Werner

cruiser54 · 01-26-2011, 05:20 AM

Idea for loading area in the rear and change bench to bed...

lucymcdog · 01-26-2011, 07:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

The hinge looks like the best alternative to me. I had the slide type in my old Shasta and it was a bit of a pain. You don't have to have a pedestal mount. You can go with a fold up leg. That is what I have.
Are you planning on using it for a bed quite often?
How is the wood working coming along?

We probably won't use it as a bed very often - it will only be a twin bed size and sort of narrow at that. So it will only be used with grandkids.

Wood working is coming along slowly. We had to go get more supplies in Salida and it has been really cold - with no sunshine lately so we've done nothing for the past few days. Hopefully today will be warmer (as in out of the teens) with sun. We'll see...