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10-02-2011, 08:02 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,719
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How to attach aluminum backsplash
I am installing clear coated aluminum as a backsplash in my bathroom just like in the galley. The sides and top will be captured behind the walls and mirror cabinet respectively.
My question is how to secure it to the paneling so it will follow the curve of the wall and be stable enough so caulk will adhere well along the countertop/backsplash interface.
Do I use adhesive, screws, or something else?
The galley doesn't seem to have any mechanical mounting at all???????
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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10-02-2011, 08:22 PM
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#2
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4 Rivet Member 
1999 25' Safari
On
, the road
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 298
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I'm about to do the same. I figure the loctite construction adhesive will work well. Trowel the bead down and use a laminate roller. Don't see how that would move anywhere.
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10-02-2011, 08:36 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,719
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Does it remain somewhat flexible. I gotta believe there's some flexing and movement while traveling?
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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10-02-2011, 09:01 PM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member 
1999 25' Safari
On
, the road
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 298
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In my opinion it shouldn't go anywhere. For some extra security I will probably end up putting a rivet or screw in some hidden spots. In my trailer it didn't take much to take the counter top off. Then you can have all four sides behind another surface. No way it will move.
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10-02-2011, 09:54 PM
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#5
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Classic Ride's DIY series' .
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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10-02-2011, 10:05 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member 
1973 23' Safari
Encino
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 39
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contact cement. spray two even coats on each surface allow to dry. place 6 mil plastic or thicker in between. Contact cement will not stick to the plastic allowing you the luxury of seeing where you are and properly placing the material. Gradually you work the plastic down behind the material. Work down the middle and toward each side a little at a time.
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10-02-2011, 10:20 PM
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#7
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Jeez, the DIY guys just used construction adhesive. It takes a while to set, so you can still move the metal around, but is a lot simpler. The rivets ensure that nothing is going to go anywhere.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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10-03-2011, 05:30 AM
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#8
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Why not do as Airstream does? Use a few rivets.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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10-03-2011, 06:13 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master 
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,750
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I want to do something similar, but was thinking about stainless square/ diamond pattern you see in old diners. Does anyone know a source?
Looking at the video I am guessing this material is easier to work with. Where can I get it?
I am also thinking about re-skining my door. What type of aluminum should I get? and do you know a source?
__________________
Sail on silver girl. Sail on by. Your time has come to shine.
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10-03-2011, 06:58 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Why not do as Airstream does? Use a few rivets.
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There are no rivets in my galley. The overhead cabinets, spice rack, levels monitor, ac outlet, cupboard, window frame are all the mechanical attachments through the back splash. That is what makes me think there must be some adheasive there. Also, in the bath, I would be riveting through the wallboard as well as the interior skin. Is that an issue?
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10-03-2011, 07:04 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmaah
In my opinion it shouldn't go anywhere. For some extra security I will probably end up putting a rivet or screw in some hidden spots. In my trailer it didn't take much to take the counter top off. Then you can have all four sides behind another surface. No way it will move.
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Duh...I didn't even think about capturing behind the countertop. That's probably all I need to keep it in place. The space is only 11" tall X 43" wide.
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10-03-2011, 08:39 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master 

1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Chuckey
, Tennessee
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
<snip>Also, in the bath, I would be riveting through the wallboard as well as the interior skin. Is that an issue?
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We used full height stainless steel sheets in our wet bath on the backside of the wallboards. We used solvent-based contact cement to adhere the two together and tucked the edges in the trim along the wall. We also used stainless steel acorn nuts to attach the towel bar and sink on one wall (behind the dinette) and a few below the cabinet height of our kitchen on the other wall so you can't see them from the outside of the bathroom - all you see is wood. All of the rivet/screw, pipe, drain penetrations & edges were sealed with Vulkem - our bathroom is water tight. The curved exterior walls are just sprayed with the AIM Zolatone (as like the rest of the trailer) - it's an epoxy-like finsh that seals the joints & rivets in the aluminum.
The reason we used stainless steel rather than aluminum is that it is much easier to keep clean because the aluminum would oxidize from all the moisture in the shower.
Some pics of our bath under construction can be seen in post #369
Shari
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10-03-2011, 09:01 AM
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#13
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Contributing Member
2018 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Austin (Hays County)
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic
I want to do something similar, but was thinking about stainless square/ diamond pattern you see in old diners. Does anyone know a source?
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The metal stamped sheets are prone to denting and, once dented, are impossible to repair. You can buy at HD plastic sheets that are practically indestructable and impossible to tell from the real thing. There are edge strips available
I used them as a splash for the wall above the sink at the end of my galley counter and to cover damage on the microwave cabinet. Apply them with double-sided tape. I also used the sheets as the insert on my new refrigerator.
HD stocks a limited number of patterns and colors, but you can order a wide variety from the brochures they have at the display.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2018 Interstate GT, "Sabre-Dog V"
WBCCI #9632
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10-03-2011, 11:11 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master 

2012 31' Classic
Golden Valley
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 575
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John, I am thinking of putting that on our curved outside wall. I did something similar to yours on the side wall ( at this thread) with stainless. But I want something better that contact paper but more flexible that the stainless. Looks like the ticket. Here is what we have now (but everything is reattached  ):
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10-03-2011, 12:44 PM
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#15
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2 Rivet Member 
1966 30' Sovereign
Mount clemens
, Michigan
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 43
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What about 3m VHB tape. I bought some but have not used it yet. Search Google for it and watch some of the videos. If it does what it claims it can do then I am going to use it a lot on my trailer.
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10-03-2011, 02:04 PM
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#16
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Contributing Member
2018 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Austin (Hays County)
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casarodante
John, I am thinking of putting that on our curved outside wall.
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It will take a gentle curve such as your wall in one plane very nicely. There are several styles that have no raised ribs that would curve more tightly.
I didn't show my refrigerator front, but just about everyone who tours the trailer comments on it.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2018 Interstate GT, "Sabre-Dog V"
WBCCI #9632
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10-03-2011, 02:51 PM
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#17
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4 Rivet Member 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 345
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I put Mine up In 2 pieces as that is what I had. I riveted along the seam mimicking the belt line on some trailers. Picture has a lot of flash glare but You can see most of the rivets. The lapped seam is upside down that just was the way it worked out with some damage to one of the pieces I needed to hide.
__________________
"Forbidden Wheels Clubhouse Recon Team"
S/OS #010
2004 30ft Slide Out with Hensley Arrow hitch.
Pulled by a 2019 F350 Superduty Limited.
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10-03-2011, 04:31 PM
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#18
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Silver Mist
Currently Looking...
Riverhead
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,011
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I used the Vulcum same as the original skin panels
__________________
Bob
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10-03-2011, 04:52 PM
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#19
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
Also, in the bath, I would be riveting through the wallboard as well as the interior skin. Is that an issue?
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I missed that part. Oops. Good thing you didn't take my advice and start riveting for all you were worth, it could have been--messy...
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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10-03-2011, 05:15 PM
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#20
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Contributing Member
2018 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Austin (Hays County)
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,164
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Fridge face
Here is a shot of my refrigerator face with the plastic replica stamped aluminum. The sheets are affixed with double-sided tape and black plastic screen spline is tucked in around the periphery to adjust for the lack of thickness compared to the Dometic panels.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2018 Interstate GT, "Sabre-Dog V"
WBCCI #9632
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