How do I 'Refresh' my cabinets finish?

[Larry C]

Originally Posted by rlindberg

We just got our first AS (1966 Overlander) and the woodwork looks pretty good, but I'd like any suggestions on how to make it look the best without full refinishing. I've done nothing but furniture polish so far. Is there a cleaning/sealing process that would help? Oils? Polishes? Basically, I want to have a nice look without complete refinishing.



Thanks In Advance!

Randy Lindberg

For what ever it's worth to you, I restored and repaired antique furniture for a living to last ten years before I retired.
Use clear, (or tinted) Bri-Wax, apply a thin layer, let it dry, then buff it with a brush, like you would polish your shoes with. After that, use an old T shirt, or a soft cotton rag, and polish it further. Usually, nothing more needs to be done.
If the cabinets are extremly dirty, before you wax, clean them with Murphy's Oil soap and water. You don't have to soak it in, just use a cloth dampened with Murphy's.

Forget "Lemon oil", it is mineral spirits (paint thinner) scented with enough citrus oil to smell like lemon. It actually makes the finish worse each time you use it. Howard's products are fair, but highly over rated.

Watco oils are OK if you sand very lightly first, but if there is any loose finish, when the Watco dries, you'll have a bigger mess than you started with..

Good luck

Larry C

[Ntex]

Thiss sounds like great advice. I want to save this info.


Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums

[Bluestar99]

One word of caution. If you are trying to put any polyurethane or similar over any old finish be sure all wax, oil or silicone (found in many furniture polishes) is off first. I suggest using TSP (Tri sodium Phosphate) sold in any hardware store. You mix it with water. Wear gloves. wash well with oooo steel wool and dry well after a scrub. Then a light scuff sanding of the old finish with 320 grit Silicon carbide sandpaper. Then apply your poly.

I suggest you do this to a test door. The one that is most hidden. If you do not completely remove all the wax and oils first the new finish will separate. You will see cratering called fish eye. Then you have a big problem. Preparation is the key.

Briwax is good and comes in some colors, and is a good temporary fix.

[Larry C]

Originally Posted by Bluestar99

One word of caution. If you are trying to put any polyurethane or similar over any old finish be sure all wax, oil or silicone (found in many furniture polishes) is off first. I suggest using TSP (Tri sodium Phosphate) sold in any hardware store. You mix it with water. Wear gloves. wash well with oooo steel wool and dry well after a scrub. Then a light scuff sanding of the old finish with 320 grit Silicon carbide sandpaper. Then apply your poly.

I suggest you do this to a test door. The one that is most hidden. If you do not completely remove all the wax and oils first the new finish will separate. You will see cratering called fish eye. Then you have a big problem. Preparation is the key.

Briwax is good and comes in some colors, and is a good temporary fix.

The Briwax technique that I mentioned earlier, should be redone perhaps once a year.

TSP is a harsh cleaner, use it sparingly. Polyurethane finishes are durable, but they are not a "reactive" finish, when you apply them, you are simply putting on a very thin layer of plastic over a lacquer finish. It wil usually peal off eventually.

If the wood has been polished with a silicone, such as "Pledge", it cannot be removed, even with TSP and it makes recoating difficult to say the least.

If a person must recoat, try "Polycrylic" by Minwax, I've use it a lot, it's a water base, and dries incredibly hard. We've used it to cover countertops, as an experiment, and it lasted 4 years.

Another sugestion, use a clear satin finish, it won't be shiny, and will look a lot more professional.

For whatever it's worth.

Larry

[AIR-Quarius]

Hi ya'll I used to be Redhawker 2 on this site years ago...ha thats funny for it to come up again. I think back then I was using minwax clear polyurethane to do the interior of our place here. But after using it in outdoor situations- I saw that it broke down pretty fast and was not as durable as I wanted it to be. I since then switched over to Spar Marine Varnish (lots of Stores have it. I did the whole interior (er?) of this trailer with it and it has stayed true to its purpose. Now I think I have recovered from the fumes.

[rmkrum]

Don't use real steel wool. It leaves tiny fragments that will rust and leave a mess in any water-borne finish. Use a ScotchBrite equivalent pad abrasive pad in 0000 instead. I think they are gray.

My dad used to use fine brass wool instead of steel on his boat varnish jobs to prevent rust stains. Probably not available anymore.


Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums