Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-03-2018, 11:43 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Scotts Valley , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 82
Disassembling rear roof locker

Hi, has anyone partially disassembled an end roof locker, specifically in a 2013 or thereabouts flying cloud?

I am installing a rear view camera and there is zero slack in the clearance light wiring. I am currently planning to fish the wire across the back of the roof locker and wire in to the cigarette lighter circuit with a switch, but would prefer to find a clearance light circuit so that the camera was only on when the driving lights are on.

It would be great to be able to easily remove the back curved wall of the locker, #9 in the attached picture. I see screws along the bottom edge, but nothing else

thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Screen Shot 2018-02-03 at 10.34.12 PM.jpg
Views:	204
Size:	262.9 KB
ID:	303504  
25Twin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 06:16 AM   #2
.-. -...
 
Adventure.AS's Avatar
 
2017 25' International
Port Dover , ON Canada
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,791
Quote:
Originally Posted by 25Twin View Post
... I am currently planning to fish the wire across the back of the roof locker and wire in to the cigarette lighter circuit with a switch, but would prefer to find a clearance light circuit ...
There is a substantial gap between the rear of the roof locker and the trailer wall on my trailer. I have been able to fish a wire to the wiring bundle on the road side of the locker to the curb side to install a 12 volt fan. I accessed the area by removing the side panels which only have three screws.
__________________
Ray B.
Adventure.AS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 10:36 AM   #3
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Scotts Valley , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 82
I discovered my plan to fish wire over to the cigarette lighter isn't a good idea--I had hoped the lighter would be powered when plugged in to the truck 7 pin, but you have to turn on trailer power too, and then turn off when done. This is enough of an extra hassle.

I'm now thinking of cutting out a section of the back of the roof locker to access the clearance light wiring directly. But would love to easily remove this if i can figure out how!
25Twin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 10:51 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
DaveP's Avatar

 
2004 28' Classic
Monument , Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 802
I had the same issues when I installed my rear view camera. I removed/eliminated the center running light, crimped on an extra length of wire with heat shrink/epoxy terminal and then had plenty of wire to work with. I pushed the terminals and some of the extra wire back in the hole under the insulation.
__________________
DaveP
2004 Airstream Classic 28 "Willard"
2014 Ford F150 FX4 Ecoboost
DaveP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 10:59 AM   #5
4 Rivet Member
 
Baby Zeppelin's Avatar
 
2018 28' Flying Cloud
Suwanee , Georgia
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 332
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveP View Post
I had the same issues when I installed my rear view camera. I removed/eliminated the center running light, crimped on an extra length of wire with heat shrink/epoxy terminal and then had plenty of wire to work with. I pushed the terminals and some of the extra wire back in the hole under the insulation.
How did you run the video cable? Or is your camera wireless?

I've got a camera to install, but it's not wireless. Thought I'd run the video cable up the top of the trailer and then down the refrigerator vent. Would love to hear from someone who's done this sort of thing....
Baby Zeppelin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 11:04 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
DaveP's Avatar

 
2004 28' Classic
Monument , Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 802
You are absolutely right. My camera is wireless.

I have read other posts on this sight where they ran the video cable under the trailer or over the top. Easier than fishing it through the trailer.
__________________
DaveP
2004 Airstream Classic 28 "Willard"
2014 Ford F150 FX4 Ecoboost
DaveP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 12:38 PM   #7
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Scotts Valley , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 82
Ray,

Yes, i see there is a lot of clearance between the curved back of the locker and the outer skin--this is why i was excited to run the wire over to the side. I had picked the street side as i could easily remove the panel that has the blu-ray player outlets to access that corner. But I haven't been able to identify a clearance light wire in the bundle that goes through there. I can almost reach the side clearance light with my hand, but am about 2" short so can't tell where that wire goes to, and if it ends up in that opened up corner.

My plan to connect to cigarette lighter circuit fell through as that is not active when connected to TV, unless trailer relay is connected too.

My current thinking is to use my Fein tool to cut a access door in the curved roof locker interior and then just be able to reach up and access all this from the inside. but i'd really like to avoid cutting that panel if possible
25Twin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 12:41 PM   #8
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Scotts Valley , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 82
I haven't figured out where the three screws are to remove the end panels--are you talking about the curved outward panels that are on either side of the opening doors? (labeled 13 and 14 on the pdf i initially attached?

thanks for all the replies BTW!

Yes, my camera is wireless. (Voyager)
25Twin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 02:02 PM   #9
.-. -...
 
Adventure.AS's Avatar
 
2017 25' International
Port Dover , ON Canada
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,791
Quote:
Originally Posted by 25Twin View Post
I haven't figured out where the three screws are to remove the end panels--are you talking about the curved outward panels that are on either side of the opening doors? (labeled 13 and 14 on the pdf i initially attached?
End panel = No. 9, accessible from inside the locker.
__________________
Ray B.
Adventure.AS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 02:48 PM   #10
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Scotts Valley , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 82
Ray,

Thanks for the help!

When i look at the end panel (#9) on mine, it is 64" wide and spans the full back of the two lockers when the doors are opened. On the right locker, there are 4 screws on the bottom edge. on the right locker there is one screw and the rest is blocked by the blu-ray player cabinet. I would guess there are another 3 screws that would be revealed if i removed the blu-ray cabinet.

Once i remove all screws along the bottom edge of the end panel, what happens? It doesn't seem like it would be easy to remove. The center divider that separates the two lockers would prevent it from being removed and I can't see a screw to remove the center panel at the top side.

Anyway, normally i'd just start taking things apart, but with the new (to us) trailer, i'm loathe to take something apart without knowing how it goes back together, in case it opens up a bigger can of worms!
25Twin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 02:58 PM   #11
.-. -...
 
Adventure.AS's Avatar
 
2017 25' International
Port Dover , ON Canada
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,791
Quote:
Originally Posted by 25Twin View Post
... On the right locker, there are 4 screws on the bottom edge. on the right locker there is one screw and the rest is blocked by the blu-ray player cabinet. I would guess there are another 3 screws that would be revealed if i removed the blu-ray cabinet.
Looking more closely at your diagram you are looking at what is described as 6 and 7 - divider panels (roughly triangular shaped.) These are the ones that are on what I would call the ends of the locker, but are the labeled sides in the diagram. It looks like 9 is what I would call the back panel (but is at the end of the coach.) Sorry for the confusion.

The shelving holding the Blu-Ray player removes and is replaced easily.
__________________
Ray B.
Adventure.AS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 03:21 PM   #12
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Scotts Valley , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 82
that makes more sense. I thought their terminology was confusing too. I guess they call 9 the end panel as it is at the end of the trailer, but it seems like the back of locker to me.
25Twin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2018, 03:43 PM   #13
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Scotts Valley , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 82
looking at the trailer again, i don't see three screws to remove 6 and 7! very interesting. maybe ours are different. There is one pocket screw connecting each end of 4 to 6 and 7, but no others.

I think i'll call Airstream tomorrow and see if I can get an answer
25Twin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2018, 09:50 AM   #14
BradT
 
2007 27' Safari FB SE
Milton , Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 68
Hi, I had the same problem with getting power to my wireless backup camera. I was able to make all connections from the outside.
I loosened the center marker light by removing the 2 mounting screws. The power wires were really tight. But there was a tiny bit of slack under the light once it was free to move around. I cut the wires off flush with the bottom of the light to leave short stubs sticking out. I crimped extensions onto both wires. There was a plastic grommet that protected the wires as they came thru the aluminum skin. I carefully cut it up and removed it. Now the hole thru skin was large enough to push the splices thru so they were inside the wall.
My camera came with a 3/4" sealing grommet for the power wire. I cut a 3/4 hole a few inches below the center marker light with a hole saw. Thru that hole I was able to fish out a loop of the newly extended wires. I spliced the camera wires onto them and stuffed them back inside.
Lastly, I had to put new wires on the marker light in order to reinstall it. I took it apart, and soldered new wires. Since there was no protective grommet anymore for the wires beneath the marker light, I wrapped them in tape for protection.
When you extend the wires, use smaller gauge wire to make it easier to work with. I does not need to be heavy gauge wire for just one light and the camera.
This was tedious, but worked out ok for me.
Good luck!
Brad
bradt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2018, 01:35 PM   #15
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Scotts Valley , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 82
Brad,

Great suggestion. This is the direction I am leaning towards.

I talked to a gentleman at Airstream HQ this morning and though helpful, he didn't have any suggestions on removing that grommet. He thought it should just pull right out, and then I could splice on some wire connectors w/o even cutting the wire to the middle light. With the limited clearance i haven't been able to get any purchase on the grommet to try to remove it. Interesting to hear that you had to cut it out.

I sure wish there was a nice long service loop and an automotive grade quick disconnect connector on these lights. Every car I have ever had has had easy to remove connectors on electrical subcomponents. I know these LED clearance lights will die at some point, and then it will be harder to fix than an older style with incandescent bulbs.
25Twin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 01:30 PM   #16
BradT
 
2007 27' Safari FB SE
Milton , Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 68
The grommet is really a plastic snap-in bushing. It is snapped in from the outside. They feed the wires thru it and snap it in place. It has small springy retainers that grip on the underside and hold it in place.
It is not intended to be removed from the outside. So no proper procedure exists. But it is plastic, and I removed it by cutting it into pieces and used small diagnol wire cutters and a razor knife. Then used needle nose pliers to pull the pieces out. And some I pushed in. It eventually came out.
On my 2007 Safari, they had squirted a lot of sealant into the bushing to attempt to seal the wires. However, they did not seal around the bushing itself, so it wasn't really sealed. Anyway, inside is a sticky mess of wires, insulation, and sealant.
You have to cut the marker lamp wires to get access to do this work. Once you do, you are sort of committed.
I will bring up the point that the marker lamps are not really sealed, and on my AS, all of them leaked thru the mounting screws. No gaskets or sealants were used on the 2 mounting screws, or around the bushing. The white foam gaskets are like sponges and only casually prevent ingress of dirt and water. Don't be surprised to discover rusty mounting screws and water stained parts in the lamp. You may want to replace the whole lamp assembly.

If this seems daunting, a different idea is to mount the camera above the license plate and get power from the tag light. It is easier to deal with sometimes. And, I wonder if the view might be better.

Good luck,
Brad
bradt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2018, 12:29 PM   #17
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Scotts Valley , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 82
Brad,

Thanks for the additional details on the grommet.

I hope to tackle it this weekend, as my replacement LED clearance light should arrive tomorrow. I expect it will have wire leads coming out, so that I don't have to disassemble and re-solder.

I have Ancor crimp connectors with adhesive headshrink and 18 ga wire on hand, and already have a 3/4" hole drilled in the exterior skin right below the clearance light. No turning back at this point!

I did some test mounting at the license plate light and wasn't that enamored with the camera angle. I'm hoping it is better mounted up high
25Twin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 01:27 AM   #18
2 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Scotts Valley , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 82
Brad and Ray,

Thanks for the help! I was successful in installing my camera a week ago and posted details here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f450...ml#post2069244
25Twin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 01:53 PM   #19
New Member
 
Therczeg's Avatar
 
2014 31' Classic
Eagle River , Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 3
Hi Brad, Iím getting ready to do the exact same thing to my airstream next week. Could you by any chance take a picture of what your camera looks like with the clearance light and let me see it please? I think I understand it from the description but I need a visual to make sure Iím on track. Thanks. Terri
Therczeg is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Disassembling the street side bench to reach the electrical systems afk314 Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 9 11-26-2017 07:01 AM
Rear roof locker Garymaya 2005 and newer - Bambi all models 0 07-10-2017 05:29 PM
roof locker latch help goransons Cabinets, Counter Tops & Furnishings 5 02-21-2008 01:19 PM
Roof Locker Latch for '66 Overlander draftwomyn21 Cabinets, Counter Tops & Furnishings 0 08-31-2006 03:39 PM
Roof locker extrusion needed mcneon Cabinets, Counter Tops & Furnishings 1 09-24-2004 09:00 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:03 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.