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rmkrum · 06-01-2021, 08:56 AM

Try a daub of BLUE locktight. It holds, but is removable if needed.

PB_NB · 06-05-2021, 09:25 AM

Sorry to hear about the cabinets still causing you problems. There is obviously too much flex occurring in the wall or floor and the fasteners/cabinet wood are not going to survive the beating.

I have been watching mine and so far we have not had any pop.

I have been building a new kitchen in the house and making the cabinets. It got me thinking that if you had a good floor connection, you could loose the wall connections all together and allow the flex to continue. If the cabinets are secure to the floor, I can’t see why that would be a problem while the trailer is moving or a safety issue while you are camping and using it.

If I was going to do this, I would upgrade the fasteners to the same size as the ones used at the table base. And then have them on the internal corners of the cabinet and use an angle bracket to finish the connection.

There are some risks with any modification, and the main one would be any wires routed under the dinette area that could get damaged by the screws if they are long. Best to look underneath the trailer to see what is going on there.

Have you looked at the shower wall facing the dinette to see if is moving away from the wall or floor?

How about taking the trailer for a drive and setting up a action cam like a GoPro at one end and filming the trailer flex. I think that would be a fun video to watch.

TinCupPalace · 06-06-2021, 09:24 AM

Disappointed to read that the dinette construction seems to be an issue for many people. Discovered that our dinette seems to be coming apart also after three short trips. This is the unsupported “wall” closest to the door(over the shoe storage area). I was shocked/bewildered/angry that this is only held together with staple.

Read through this thread and am digging through others looking for ideas. Initial thoughts are using “L” brackets and particle board screws to shore this thing up, but anxiously awaiting a reply back from our dealer considering we just got this 2 1/2 months ago.

steilkurve · 06-06-2021, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TinCupPalace

Disappointed to read that the dinette construction seems to be an issue for many people. Discovered that our dinette seems to be coming apart also after three short trips. This is the unsupported “wall” closest to the door(over the shoe storage area). I was shocked/bewildered/angry that this is only held together with staple.

Read through this thread and am digging through others looking for ideas. Initial thoughts are using “L” brackets and particle board screws to shore this thing up, but anxiously awaiting a reply back from our dealer considering we just got this 2 1/2 months ago.

Sorry to hear that. I think this may be a design issue with the new larger 22s. I wonder if it doesn’t have to do with the axle being right under that section causing us all problems in addition to more unsupported plywood surface in between joists than the old narrower body versions. Combine the two and you likely have much more flex than before. They might need to rethink how the cabinet is built.

Now, I just drove 300 km. The screw from the fall fell off again. However, the cabinet is still solidly in place, thanks to the L brackets I put in to hold the cabinet to the floor. I’m even wondering if that wall connection, as currently designed, isn’t a big part of the issue. It’s trying to force the cabinet to stay in place but the excessive flex from the combination of axle and unsupported plywood is too much and the weaker links give in.

steilkurve · 06-06-2021, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PB_NB

Sorry to hear about the cabinets still causing you problems. There is obviously too much flex occurring in the wall or floor and the fasteners/cabinet wood are not going to survive the beating.

I have been watching mine and so far we have not had any pop.

I have been building a new kitchen in the house and making the cabinets. It got me thinking that if you had a good floor connection, you could loose the wall connections all together and allow the flex to continue. If the cabinets are secure to the floor, I can’t see why that would be a problem while the trailer is moving or a safety issue while you are camping and using it.

If I was going to do this, I would upgrade the fasteners to the same size as the ones used at the table base. And then have them on the internal corners of the cabinet and use an angle bracket to finish the connection.

There are some risks with any modification, and the main one would be any wires routed under the dinette area that could get damaged by the screws if they are long. Best to look underneath the trailer to see what is going on there.

Have you looked at the shower wall facing the dinette to see if is moving away from the wall or floor?

How about taking the trailer for a drive and setting up a action cam like a GoPro at one end and filming the trailer flex. I think that would be a fun video to watch.

Hey, long time no talk!

Shower wall is perfect.

Think the screw keeps falling off because when the dealer ‘completed’ my repair by replacing the piece of plywood that had been damaged, they put in what appears to be a smaller size screw. It fits in snugly in the new plywood of course but is not fastened to the wall obviously.

See above my response to a fellow Airstreamer with dinette problems. Now convinced more than ever it’s a bigger design issue with new larger floor plans.

Think I’ll stick to securing it only through the floor for now. It’s sturdy and worry that if I find a way to solidly anchor it to the wall, it’ll end up tearing the cabinet itself apart.

steilkurve · 07-13-2021, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmkrum

That’s a ‘sheet metal screw’ not a real wood screw. You could try going one size bigger in diameter but not length.

Question. How much bigger screw could I go with you think? This screw goes into the dinette end partition along its length and then into the skin/rib. Partition is 3/4 inch thick I would guess. Don't want to split the wood.

steilkurve · 07-13-2021, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steilkurve

Question. How much bigger screw could I go with you think? This screw goes into the dinette end partition along its length and then into the skin/rib. Partition is 3/4 inch thick I would guess. Don't want to split the wood.

Correction. The partition is more like an inch (trailer at storage facility right now). See photo in post #1 to see what piece I'm talking about.

kiere · 07-20-2021, 10:32 PM

It’s interesting (and scary) to see staples used since I’ve watched many videos from Colonial Airstream bragging that you won’t find cheap stuff like staples in an Airstream. I’ve got a 27 FB on order for a December delivery and I’m getting nervous about cut corners in a rush to meet demand.

steilkurve · 07-26-2021, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiere

It’s interesting (and scary) to see staples used since I’ve watched many videos from Colonial Airstream bragging that you won’t find cheap stuff like staples in an Airstream. I’ve got a 27 FB on order for a December delivery and I’m getting nervous about cut corners in a rush to meet demand.

My AS was purchased in 2019 way before the pandemic-induced surge in RV travel. Not to say the whole situation hasn't added problems but not sure their standards were lowered as a result.

If anything, I'd venture to guess they have more time to build each trailer right now as the main problem seems to be getting the parts. I keep hearing of units being built and then waiting on the lot for cushions, mattresses and fridges, among other things.

Colonial AS is correct. AS cabinets are better built than most RVs. They use high quality laminated plywood and not particle boards. Doesn't mean they don't make errors in design or assembly from time to time, such as my model's dinette, but their basic construction is better.

steilkurve · 07-26-2021, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steilkurve

Correction. The partition is more like an inch (trailer at storage facility right now). See photo in post #1 to see what piece I'm talking about.

Just to update people who'd benefit from this information, I ended up screwing the bench back into the wall/rib with a size 10 sheet metal screw instead of the #8 there before. Added a bit of Locktite.

I've made two trips since and it has not budged. I think the issue was the previous screw size. It was too small for the existing hole.

PB_NB · 07-26-2021, 02:45 PM

Sounds like you are on the right track! This will probably be a helpful thread for others.

I think the demands put on Airstream may actually result in more issues with increased production and dealing with COVID in the plant. I hope things do get better but a solid run of good trailers out the door will prove that or the opposite will happen and we will continue to see issues around quality.

steilkurve · 07-27-2021, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PB_NB

Sounds like you are on the right track! This will probably be a helpful thread for others.

Full transparency... I've been towing on the ball without WD on those last two trips. Coincidence or not, no popped rivet or screw coming loose despite traveling on some bad roads. Toying with the idea to put WD back on at a low setting, merely as sway control, or looking at hitch setups from CANAM RV that are apparently easier on the trailer (chain-based bars and separate sway control).

steilkurve · 07-27-2021, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PB_NB

I think the demands put on Airstream may actually result in more issues with increased production and dealing with COVID in the plant. I hope things do get better but a solid run of good trailers out the door will prove that or the opposite will happen and we will continue to see issues around quality.

Perhaps but I'm ever the optimist! They got their new plant with new lines. Hopefully that helps.

steilkurve · 08-27-2021, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steilkurve

Just to update people who'd benefit from this information, I ended up screwing the bench back into the wall/rib with a size 10 sheet metal screw instead of the #8 there before. Added a bit of Locktite.

I've made two trips since and it has not budged. I think the issue was the previous screw size. It was too small for the existing hole.

Updating in case it helps folks. Screw holding bench to the wall came out again, despite the larger size and Locktite.

I’ve now resorted to JB Weld epoxy into the screw hole, theory being the hole is just too large. It’s successfully held everything in place on my current outing. That, combined with lower tire pressure, additional fasteners to tie the bench down and a softer WD hitch will be the end of this!

PB_NB · 08-27-2021, 12:53 PM

I like your enthusiasm!

SeeMore · 08-27-2021, 02:33 PM

Use a rivet into metal. You can drill it out if there is a need for removal at a future date.

Otherwise, you can use a "Tee Nut" when the opposing side is accessible as the photo in post 1.

https://images.thdstatic.com/product...301-64_145.jpg

steilkurve · 08-27-2021, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeeMore

Use a rivet into metal. You can drill it out if there is a need for removal at a future date.

Otherwise, you can use a "Tee Nut" when the opposing side is accessible as the photo in post 1.

https://images.thdstatic.com/product...301-64_145.jpg

That would require me to change how the bench is fastened. The screw goes through the plywood and into the skin/rib behind it. I was able to push the epoxy through the hole but a tee nut would require taking apart the piece of furniture to access the hole. And a revit would require a piece of extrusion or something to attach to the wood and then the skin/rib. All good ideas though. Plan F (or whatever letter I’m at now!) if I have to get there.

duboismjjp · 09-25-2021, 07:33 AM

I just started to have the same problem on the particular screw popping out now on every trip. I noticed that the similar panel next to the bed does not have the same issue or wobble as it has the side table acting as a brace against the panel. I am toying with the idea of adding a very narrow shelf at the entrance to act as a brace to solve this problem.

PB_NB · 09-25-2021, 09:44 AM

I wonder if the road conditions are contributing to this issue? If flex continues, it may be better to disconnect the vertical from the wall and allow the trailer walls to move.

Another idea would be to use a spring loaded connection to allow for movement but still be connected or a small rubber isolator with bolt connections on both ends and rubber in the middle. This way you are not fighting with the flex but working with it.

With our Sport, we have taken it out about a dozen times now and still don’t see any stress at the problem connection. Our road surfaces are quite smooth which I am sure helps minimize any issues.

We are using a 2019 Honda Ridgeline to tow and it is quite a smooth/compliant vehicle. We have what some would say is a very stiff WDH and usually run with 65 PSI cold in the tires. The tires go up to over 70 psi while moving.

We haven’t had any rivets pop in our trailer. There is one hole in the closet where they drilled a hole but and missed the structure so they left the rivet out. It only bothers us when we open the closet! They probably had to go for lunch!

steilkurve · 09-25-2021, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duboismjjp

I just started to have the same problem on the particular screw popping out now on every trip. I noticed that the similar panel next to the bed does not have the same issue or wobble as it has the side table acting as a brace against the panel. I am toying with the idea of adding a very narrow shelf at the entrance to act as a brace to solve this problem.

I think I’ve permanently fixed the issue. I went a screw size larger and dipped it JB Weld epoxy before screwing it in. Hasn’t budged after many outings including one with bad 10 km dirt road. Combined with adding L brackets inside that wall, seems to be good now. Look up thread for the details.