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Old 05-18-2008, 04:45 AM   #21
Restorations done right
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1962 26' Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mj81excella
62averlander, did you use a veneer on your cabinets?
I did a combination of things. My cabinets were constructed of different materials in a different method than yours. The major problem I had was de-lamination. The plywood had sucked up moisture from the floor and the hot/ cold cycles caused all the layers to separate. Anywhere that this had taken place I removed the plywood entirely and replaced it with new material.
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I had to cut down the cabinets by 11mm also to compensate for the new cork flooring. When I did that I installed a piece of vertical grain douglas fir at the bottom to keep it all together and give a new attachment point at the floor. I used a Kreg jig to create pocket screw holes to put that on. Click image for larger version

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Originally there was a gap left at the bottom to allow air to come into the cabinet and the rise and leave the top. I used an arched piece that still allowed for that and helps make the cabinet more rigid side to side. After the frame work was repaired, new 3mm plywood was glued and stapled to the frames. I used a router with a pattern bit to remove the excess plywood.
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After that I filled all the holes and seams with polyester filler and sanded it smooth. I then veneered using a paperbacked veneer and BondRite contact cement. This is now what the wood looks like in fiddleback maple.

Sorry if I gave you too much info, that is my nature. In reviewing this, I could have answered your question with a simple "yes". I do want to say that, when I begin taking on clients for this work, I will only build them new. I won't take the slight chance that more de-lamination might (very unlikely) occur to the old plywood.
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:03 AM   #22
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62 overlander

thank you that is exactly the kind of answer I was looking for
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:10 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
I used a Kreg jig to create pocket screw holes to put that on.
What kind of toosel is a "Kreg jig"?
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:14 AM   #24
Restorations done right
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It is the blue thing in the photos... it guides a drill bit at the right angle to make a pocket screw hole. It is a very simple technology and is used mostly to build face frame cabinets. A square drive washer head screw(also in the photo) holds the joint tight.
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:15 AM   #25
Restorations done right
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oh yeh, they sell it at both the orange and blue box....
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:17 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by mj81excella
I want to build cabinets for my 81 excella and I was wondering what the best material to use would be. I've seen some solid wood cabinets and they looked heavy. I want to keep the weight down. any suggestions. Is there a better alternative to a rebuild? Also, is there a market for selling the existing cabinetry and/or appliances? I'm still in the planning/thinking phase, everything is still intact. I'm most interested in ideas for cabinets right now. thanks, mj
Alder is one option. It is not quite hard enough for a desktop or floor even though used that way. It is hard enough for cabinets and is very light for its strength. Alder is also used as a mimic wood as it stains easy and is inexpensive. You can also do frame and panel using 1/4" material for the panel to save weight. Take it one step further to stressed skin and 1/8" Finnish birch ply could be used. The canoe in my avatar is one example of stressed skin, the hull is 3/16" thick and weighs in at 27lbs. To put some perspective to the photo, I weigh in at 250 lbs.

Example of Knotty Alder used for a table.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/404446-post40.html

Example of Knotty Alder used for Dinette end panel.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/563283-post1292.html
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:18 AM   #27
Restorations done right
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Originally Posted by mj81excella
62 overlander

thank you that is exactly the kind of answer I was looking for
You are extremely welcome. If you need any more help feel free to contact me.
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