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07-15-2004, 08:10 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
1967 24' Tradewind
Alameda
, California
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,570
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building custom bathroom / interior
I'm putting this in the interior cabinetry thread, it seems that it would belong here.
My husband ripped out a really good bathroom set from our '67 and I was told, after it was already at the local dump, that it could be saved and refinished. We learned our lesson, but now we know we're custom-building a bathroom and the whole rest of the interior; it's all been gutted. Not a problem; husband's a good carpenter, and has a close friend who is a professional cabinetmaker.
Has anyone else done this from scratch, especially the bathroom? We know we'll have to build "around" the stuff that's there, like the water tank and plumbing etc. Any suggestions on the type and thickness of wood? Any websites to point me to for ideas? Unforseen problems we can avoid or mistakes we can learn from? (Besides checking before ripping out anything valuable?)
Of course, we're doing the floor/belly pan next, but we want to start thinking about the interior soon too.
__________________
"Let's look Death in the face and say, 'Whatever man.'"
~ Hurley
ingrid
1967 24' Tradewind #19104 ~ Forums #4449
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07-15-2004, 09:02 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,486
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You husband is really going to like building against walls that curve in three dimensions.
Typical cabinet woods are 3/4". This makes for a lot of weight. If you are not doing raised panels, I'd use 1/2" for counter tops and 3/8ths for panels and such. Even where I built raised panels I milled it to 5/8ths. Panel in frame construction saves a lot of weight.
Cabinetmakers are used to planning for wood movement, but not usually for the cabinet itself to be moving! Assemblies that depend upon close tolerance alignments are likely to disappoint in use as the coach bends and twists much more than one might expect.
Finishes should be chosen for their ability to take extreme temperatures.
Doors and drawers should not face the front of the coach unless they can be securely latched. Anything in them will exhibit a strong desire to relocate at the nose of the trailer!
Good luck,
Mark
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07-15-2004, 11:28 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1967 24' Tradewind
Alameda
, California
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,570
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alternate materials??
OK that all makes sense. Sooo, are there alternate materials for building the bathroom cabinetry? Or is wood our only option pretty much...I could use pictures...or do I have to buy a new fiberglass bathroom/shower insert?
Dang! I knew we should have slowed down!! I wish so much we'd have kept the bathroom stuff.
__________________
"Let's look Death in the face and say, 'Whatever man.'"
~ Hurley
ingrid
1967 24' Tradewind #19104 ~ Forums #4449
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07-15-2004, 11:41 PM
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#4
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Ingrid,
It will be difficult to build a compound curved shower tub. I don't think the vanity top with a sink in it is difficult, but am uncertain where to send you for a tub....
Perhaps Colaws RV salvage? e-bay?
Of course most rv parts houses have square or rectangular tubs/pans, but I am yet to see one readily available that's curved for an Airstream.
I guess a tub could be made of thin plywood, and then fiberglassed and gel coated. A bit of work, but not impossible.
Ha, here is a thought....go see Jesse at West Coast Choppers, have him pound out a nice copper tub...
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07-16-2004, 12:02 AM
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#5
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,255
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Rule number one when dealing with vintage anything - never throw anything away until you are absolutely sure it cannot be refurbished. Even then I have sold things from classic mustangs which I would have thrown stright in the dumpster, but other people were dying to get their hands on. Not only could you have probably refurbished your bathroom, or at least used it for patterns, but someone probably would have paid to have it (like Till, is it, who's been begging for one for months now). But now that you've learned that lesson...
Maybe it would be easier to build the bathroom in the center along the hall and put the bedroom n the back, that way you won't have to deal with quite as many curves as you would building a rear bath. At least the trailers I have seen with center baths look simpler to me.
Good luck! I applaud your enthusiasm either way!
__________________
Stephanie
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07-16-2004, 12:18 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 26
1963 24' Tradewind
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,341
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try stainless steel
Try looking through vintage vaction's remodels. I've seen (at least I think I've seen) some stainless steel shower pans made - I think tad taylor (healthy homes) has made some as well. Copper might be easy to hammer as well if you made a buck. This could be fun
Marc
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07-16-2004, 01:57 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,255
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Plastic panels?
I have to build a complete bathroom from scratch too but I have a middle bath on a 1973 31' to worry about. I may actually be able to buy a new shower pan that fits like the old one. I do no know yet... does anyone know about this by the way?
At anyrate it occurred to me that you might be able to use some of the plastic sheets that I have seen recently at HD or Lowes (or maybe both). What I saw was a somewhat floppy/flexible solid plastic material about 1/8" thick. It had a sort of bumpy finish on it and came in white. I believe I also saw some in grey a while back. I had the impression that it was something along the lines of ABS or some such thing. It definitely was not melamine or formica. It seemed to be flexible enough that you could form it at least into simple curves. I think you could probabaly make waterproof joints using some sort of epoxy or maybe even some sort of appropriate caulk. The trick would be to fully support it with some kind of framework. I could easily see it being glued to the inner body skin on one side at least.
It is also possible to buy Filon fiber re-enforced plastic sheets. It is a product that is used extensively for RV exteriors and comes in rolls up to I think 10' or so wide by whatever length you need. Check out the following web-site for starters:
http://www.kemlite.com/filon_frp/filon_frp_index.cfm
Since Filon is essentially fiberglass from what I understand you could perhaps use sheets of it and attach them together at the corners using fiberglass tape and resin from the back side.
I will be interested in what you come up with since I may have to do something similar myself. By the way my AS did not even have a shower for me to think about throwing out or using as a pattern.
Malcolm
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07-16-2004, 07:47 AM
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#8
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RivetAddict
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Louisville
, Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,861
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Ingird,
Given that you are planning such a major renovation (retro-vation) perhaps its not as bad as you think. You are no longer bound by the original design. Perhaps a center bath is in order (easier to fab from above but lot's of plumbing changes below).
As we have been planning on interior and begun construction of things like overhead cabinets we've had our best design breakthroughs when we finally got over either trying to "exactly" reproduce the CCD look or figuring our ways to re-use the old cabinet frames. By chucking all of that we feel that we've ended up with designs that exceeded our original goals which are easier to construct, use fewer materials materials (and $$$) and I think once constructed will look better than we had hoped.
Spend some time on vintage vacations' site and dream up what you want. Sometimes a clean sheet of paper is a great place to start.
__________________
Steven Webster
1986 Airstream 345 Classic Motorhome
AIR 1760
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07-16-2004, 08:08 AM
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#9
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 472
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I suggest that you take the belly pans off clean it out and then check your tanks and plumbing. We are doing CCD to the extreme. I am putting up with my son's desire to use for the floor. I have thick rugs. We are- "a la Ted Taylor" making the bath all metal. For the cabinets we are using a decorative punched out aluminum sheet that has 50% of the weight gone from the beginning. The sink will be a smaller version of the kitchen sink (another thread) made from a good strong mixing bowl. Don't forget there is a fan to evacuate toilet smells and extra moisture. I realised I use my big fancy tub a couple of times a year, always using the shower. So we are putting a shower in- also metal. By the way, I have multiple chemical sensitivities, and am doing the metal look- not realising it's the "in" thing with this designer Chris C. Dean, therefor the CCD look. silver suz
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07-16-2004, 08:11 AM
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#10
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 472
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My son want's to use diamond plate for the floor- and maybe the shower. At this point, if he wanted to do something just as crazy, I'd let him .He's putting in 15 hour days in 100 degree weather. suz
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07-16-2004, 11:30 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver suz
My son want's to use diamond plate for the floor- and maybe the shower. At this point, if he wanted to do something just as crazy, I'd let him .He's putting in 15 hour days in 100 degree weather. suz
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I would rethink the diamond plate for a shower floor real quick especialy if it is the stuff with the sharp grip ridge. Stand on it bare foot and you will see what I mean.
I'd go with stainless with a brush finish. We are retaining our fiberglass shower pan but the riser for the toilet (we have a wet bath) will be stainless as will the vertical walls. We will use a very thin sheet and glue it to the walls.
I'm pretty happy with the over all floor plan of our coach and we plan to retain as mush as possible and do a bit more of a restoration with a little bit of a tiwist. Do so stuff like shift the galley forward so I can get a bed I fit in better. Our overhead in the galley are made out of aluminum. While we plan to go back with the Zolatone we have concidered polishing the overheads and taking out the wood doors and doing the transparent doors with back lights like the CCD. See our photo album and there are a couple shots where you can see our overheads.
My best advice would be go to www.vintageairstream.com and look at the archive pictures and see what elements you like. My favorite floor plan since we have kids is the rear bedroom center bath layout. As our kids get older it would give us a little private space if were ready for bed. If I ever get a MH the 310 rear full bed is the ideal layout for us.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
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07-16-2004, 11:47 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1967 24' Tradewind
Alameda
, California
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,570
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Thanks Uwe. I personally don't see any reason for a tub; if I need a soak, I'm headed for the hot tub in our yard or a local hot spring or something. My husband couldn't fit in the old one to save his life and my daughter is now old enough to take showers. So the tub is probably way too much work and not worth it.
Yep suz, we're checking all plumbing and systems first. The round sink by the way that you have is a stroke of GENIUS, a perfect example of thinking out of the box. We'll replace the belly plan and floor, fix frame where it needs it, and get that ready before we start interior remodel.
We pretty much just want to aluminum veneer the inside and just make the rest a combination of what "looks nice" and works, with affordable materials; formica countertops (they're not as hideous as they used to be!) wood cabinets and a woodgrain type Pergo floor to warm up the aluminum effect, if we even put aluminum throughout the whole thing. We might use some kind of carpet material for the walls, who knows?? But the "design" as in combination of materials, colors, etc. we're not going too fancy. Just durable and nice looking. So we're not picky about plans and only going for the CCD look in a limited fashion; in other words, anything other than that old gross vinyl on the panels.
So, a shower isn't that hard to find, I'm thinking? Just a basic step-in with a curtain that snaps to the walls, hand nozzle?
__________________
"Let's look Death in the face and say, 'Whatever man.'"
~ Hurley
ingrid
1967 24' Tradewind #19104 ~ Forums #4449
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07-16-2004, 12:44 PM
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#13
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4 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
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Definately check out
http://www.vintage-vacations.com/
check out the stainless shower in the Spartan.That's what I'm shooting for.
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07-16-2004, 02:13 PM
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#14
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 472
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thanks, but I have been given several samples of diamond plate to stand on and I think my tough feet can take it. Silver suz
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07-16-2004, 04:41 PM
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#15
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4 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
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Ingrid, I am in the same boat as you as far as my interior goes.I tore the whole thing apart in a couple of days and brought it to the dump.I should have kept the tub,sinks and a few samples of how cabinets were made.The trailer was so moldy I did not want to keep anything and did not want to bring my camera in to take pictures of how things were put together.I thought I could remember how things are built as it is mostly 1/8" ply on 1x2s.The problem is the devil is in the details.When I get to the point that I can start building cabinets I hope I can find someone near me that has a vintage Airstream that I can "monkey see monkey do".I kept the old floor boards and that will help with the dimensions of the layout at least.
The same has happened to me with the frame off floor replacement.It is taking more time reassembling the body to the frame as I took no pictures or measurements of where frames meet floor.So before that comes apart take as many photos and measurements as you can.
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05-01-2005, 11:24 AM
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#16
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7751
1975 25' Tradewind
Huntington Beach
, California
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 153
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New Airstream Shower Enclosures
I was checking out some of the new CCD models at the Sky River dealership in Paso Robles, Ca recently and noticed that the manufacturers decals were still on the shower enclosures... seems thay are made in Indiana by a company called Ultra Glass. I couldn't find much info on the web about them so I suspect they only do wholesale. If it was not too pricey I would consider using one of those in a bath remodel.
Ultra Glass
520 Industrial Drive
Lakeville, Indiana 46536
574 784 4859
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05-01-2005, 04:05 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1967 24' Tradewind
Alameda
, California
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,570
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Thank you very much! I shall pursue that!
__________________
"Let's look Death in the face and say, 'Whatever man.'"
~ Hurley
ingrid
1967 24' Tradewind #19104 ~ Forums #4449
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05-26-2005, 08:46 PM
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#18
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3 Rivet Member
1967 22' Safari
Branford
, Connecticut
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 215
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if I can be of any help....
Hey there Ingrid! Well you can take solace in the fact that others learned from your mistakes! I haven't thrown out anything from my Safari and a lot of that is due to your warnings to me. But in any event my bathroom (while presently not in the trailer) is intact and I documented it's disassembly with plently of pictures and notes. I'm guessing there are similarities between the 24s and 22s in '67 so if I can help you out in anyway with info, let me know! Diane
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06-17-2005, 07:21 PM
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#19
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4 Rivet Member
1970 29' Ambassador
1959 22' Flying Cloud
1957 26' Overlander
Ashland
, Oregon
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 254
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Can 5 see+
Quote:
Originally Posted by silver suz
I suggest that you take the belly pans off clean it out and then check your tanks and plumbing. We are doing CCD to the extreme. I am putting up with my son's desire to use for the floor. I have thick rugs. We are- "a la Ted Taylor" making the bath all metal. For the cabinets we are using a decorative punched out aluminum sheet that has 50% of the weight gone from the beginning. The sink will be a smaller version of the kitchen sink (another thread) made from a good strong mixing bowl. Don't forget there is a fan to evacuate toilet smells and extra moisture. I realised I use my big fancy tub a couple of times a year, always using the shower. So we are putting a shower in- also metal. By the way, I have multiple chemical sensitivities, and am doing the metal look- not realising it's the "in" thing with this designer Chris C. Dean, therefor the CCD look. silver suz
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I am doing the same renov and am a bit nervous about the new design. it is gutted and I dont know where to start. I also want an all stainless bath so I can spray water, whereever. Any thoughts?
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11-18-2006, 01:18 PM
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#20
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Florissant
, USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
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A question
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
Maybe it would be easier to build the bathroom in the center along the hall and put the bedroom n the back, that way you won't have to deal with quite as many curves as you would building a rear bath. At least the trailers I have seen with center baths look simpler to me.
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With doing this, does the black tank then have to be relocated? I was told that the toilet should always go directly over the blacktank due to the gravity system plumbing system If the black tank is not required, then I will be changing to a side bath unit, and making the rear into a bedroom.
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