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kneal · 12-13-2006, 09:09 AM

Looking at replacing 70's interior with new real wood as opposed to the cheap plasticy original interior. If anyone has any good sources or pictures they could post or point me to for ideas, it would be greatly appreciated.

Kind Regards,
Kevin

Ken J · 12-13-2006, 09:13 AM

I have - if you look under 1958 overlander restoration - you will see the cabinets I've built - they are many others who have too.

rickandsandi · 12-13-2006, 09:16 AM

Kevin-

There are tons of great pictures here of what others have done. Use your search funtion. Just one work of advise: weight!

Good luck and we look forward to some pictures when you are done.

LI Pets · 12-13-2006, 09:31 AM

I just started making cabinets and got tool that makes holes in the face frames for screws at an angle.

Not sure of the name but it works great, any tool supply has it for about 15-20$.

Tom Nugler · 12-13-2006, 12:16 PM

Are you doing the "Fully Monty" and replacing all the cabinetry?
I had to replace missing pieces to restore the GT. One double closet and front and side gauchos. Trying to match 35 year old finish and construction style was quite a challenge.
I doweled and mortised and tenioned the frames depending on their use. The skins were cabinet grade veneer plywood. Oh yeah, the the GT uses ash which I hadn't worked with before. Works OK. A lot like oak.
If you have the time and skills I would recommend replacing all the old with new. You can select the species of wood you like, use modern construction methods and materials and not have to argue with stains and varnishes trying to get a consistant match between old and new.

Good luck, sounds like a nice winter project,
Tom.

kneal · 12-13-2006, 01:55 PM

I am not doing the full monty as the floor is in great shape. I am planning on keeping the same floor plan as it is today with the exception of adding a dinnette where the Gaucho is located and possiblhy some bunk beds over the two twin beds. I plan on removing all the current cabinetry and starting from scratch. I am having problems finding anyone who has done this on a 70's trailer who could add some expertise on how to keep the weight down, wood types, etc..

Tom Nugler · 12-13-2006, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kneal

..... how to keep the weight down, wood types, etc..

Actually the biggest single item as far as weight is concerned seems to be counter-tops and tables. For example the little swing-out, fold up table in my GlobeTrotter is a whopping 26 pounds including the slides and hardware. The 7 foot galley counter-top was pretty heavy too. The tall plywood closet doors are pretty hefty as well.
As far as the frames go you could probably substitute lighter wood for the pieces that are covered or are for support but I don't think it will make much difference.
Wood species is up to your personal taste. I like lighter wood in the living areas. Darker in the sleeping area. That's just because when I'm out I would prefer to sleep until the crack of noon and darker is easier on the eyes after a night around the fire sampling Germany's finest beverages.

Keep us posted,
Tom.

A-Merry-Can · 12-13-2006, 04:58 PM

i'm planning on taking a few notes from the original. i'm using 1/4" plywood for the sides, and 3/4 X 2 maple for the face frames. 1/2" wood for the counter tops. i'm going to do the tall closet doors out of 2 pieces of 1/4, with a side frame. in my trade wind, the closet doors are all hollow core. very cool! you might consider changing out the tank with a plastic one, if it isn't already. i bet if you did that, and got rid of a few cabinets or overhead lockers you didn't need you could shave a ton of weight off the trailer. that would be cool to go through a 70's trailer, and make it as light as the 60s ones... you could get close, but the frame and grey tank would still make it heavier.

anyway, good luck!

jp

LI Pets · 12-13-2006, 05:34 PM

I ripped out most of my stuff, I found that using poplar for the face frames saved some weight.

Framing out with poplar and using 1/4" cherry is saving weight over all.

I replaced all the 3/16" vinyl clad luan petitions with the 1/4" cherry, it fit into the existing alum framing really nice.

The one thing that was heavy, was the three wardrobe doors and the pantry door. I think they must be 100lbs.

I removed the twin rear beds, and built a lightweight queen bed, the front triple tambor frames under each twin must bet 35-40 lbs each.

The front Gaucho was maybe 75 lbs. plus the univolt etc.

selling the old fridge 150 lb, installed a new 80 lb smaller unit.

Sold the 70 lb stove replace with a 10lb cooktop.

The folding table was so heavy I did reinstall it.
I intend to rebuild it later on with 1/4" cherry with a lightweight core.

The kitchen top is 1/2 and a liitle heavy not sure how to save weight on that?

I can't wait to get this thing on a scale in a week or two.

LI Pets · 12-13-2006, 05:39 PM

I forgot used pocket screws to make the face frames very fast construction

The jig was $15 to drill these pockets, they are tight as a frogs butt

Road Ruler · 12-13-2006, 08:02 PM

I used popular for the frame as well. Brad mails and glue make for quick assembly. Four nice doors from Ikea's cleareance bin were $12. That saved us about $175.00 from list. Counter top from Home Depot. Pics are in our photo gallary.

bertro · 12-13-2006, 08:12 PM

Lipets is using whats called a Kreg Jig,it is a good tool for face frame constuction. I would recommend using 1/2" stock for frames,door rails and stiles to keep weight down.As's use kind of a european style design in there cabinetry mabey to withstand flex better than face frame contsruction and ease of removal for repair.Although I am not an AS expert I have built Many of cabinets,If I can offer any help let me Know.
Robert

Thealt · 01-19-2007, 06:38 PM

We're planning on rebuilding the kitchen cabinets and reframing the dinette and sofa bed in my '67 Safari once the days are a bit warmer.
After looking at the original kitchen cabinets the first thing I noticed is how they pull themselves apart with all the rocking and rolling. My plan is to make the kitchen unit as a onepiece that is dovetailed together. Sides will be dovetailed to shelves bottom frame and top frame using a slotted dovetail. This should hold the cabinet together. The next trick is to mount the cabinet securely in the AS. It needs to allow for some movement so I plan to mount to the floor and wall using an elongated slot with a single fastner in the center. A few key places on the floor and wall should allow the unit to have some floating movement, but the dovetails will prevent separation.
Once I'm into the remodel, I will post pics.

Alt

Phil and/or Sue · 01-19-2007, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bertro

Lipets is using whats called a Kreg Jig,it is a good tool for face frame constuction. I would recommend using 1/2" stock for frames,door rails and stiles to keep weight down.As's use kind of a european style design in there cabinetry mabey to withstand flex better than face frame contsruction and ease of removal for repair.Although I am not an AS expert I have built Many of cabinets,If I can offer any help let me Know.
Robert

Thanks for putting a name with the tool.

When you say European style design, what is different? I have my sink base/counter torn out and will be re-building my own custom cabinet/countertop. I am curious to know what I might do different.

Here is a pic during my tearout.

PizzaChop · 01-19-2007, 09:17 PM

Phil,

I didn't rebuild my cabinet but I did replace the countertop, oven, and faucet. I replaced the fake wood tape in the aluminum trim with matching laminate which I think looks better.

Here's a pic...

safari57 · 01-19-2007, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kneal

Looking at replacing 70's interior with new real wood as opposed to the cheap plasticy original interior. If anyone has any good sources or pictures they could post or point me to for ideas, it would be greatly appreciated.

Kind Regards,
Kevin

Kevin,
One option to consider if the cabinets you have work but externally don't look proper - you could glue 1/8th inch veneer to them. We did this to a trailer a few years back and over a couple of weekends had a really attractive wood interior. It was relatively inexpensive and very quick. Just a thought.

Barry

Phil and/or Sue · 01-20-2007, 04:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PizzaChop

Phil,

I didn't rebuild my cabinet but I did replace the countertop, oven, and faucet. I replaced the fake wood tape in the aluminum trim with matching laminate which I think looks better.

Here's a pic...

Thanks for the pic. I think you got a nice clean look with that countertop. That range looks different than mine, so I assume it's a replacement too.

Taking advantage of this opportunity to ask (Pizza Cop or anyone else...), there is another depressing problem that I am need advice on: a broken weld on the joist immediately below those cabinets. Here is a drawing of kinda' the situation, and a pic of what it really looks like. Can it be welded/fixed without taking everything off/out? Should I get to it from underneath (I do not do any welding, so it would have to be farmed out)? I have been unwilling to tackle the whole issue of bellypan tearout/replacement even though I know the insulation is gone. However, as I mull this one over, maybe this is the camel-back breaker. Thanks for any thoughts!!!!

I just realized that my little drawing and the pic are at different angles. Sorry...the pic is looking from the fridge toward curbside, angling slightly back. The black tube is the fresh water filler tube from the outside. The drawing represents a view looking toward curbside angling forward (the bigger beam is front-to-back).

muddy_hollow · 01-20-2007, 05:29 AM

I've been working on my cabinets for the last couple months. I have the gally and four drawer chest almost done. The gally is new construction, using 3/4 ply for the sides and solid birch for the face frame. I used an MDF rounded corner to give it that 50s look and mort & tenon to construct the face frame. I'm working on the drawers, which will be made out of poplar and .522 mm birch ply.

The other product I used was a PSA veneer, which is real wood birch veneer with a 3M backing to it. Sticky as hell. Works pretty good, some fiddling to get it to stick. I used the product on the gally sides and to re-face the four drawer chest.

The gally sits over a wheel well so the first two drawers (top down) are pull out while the bottom is a little door, which is the same as they did on the orig. The counter top is stainless steel, which was a steal. I bought it at my favorite cheap stainless steel widget store, Ikea, on clearance for $25. You can buy them from the catalog as part of their varde collection. The countertop and the chest were my inspriation for the cabinets. The gally will be the heart of the rig housing the AC, Circuit breakers, sink area, cook top, and more. The right side will house an A/C and cook top while the left will have a area inside next to the top drawers for the breakers. To get to them you'll have to slide open the front, pull forward the drawers. Good place to snug everthing into.

I've posted other pictures to my blog. 1956 Caravanner

HTH,

Doug

tphan · 01-20-2007, 08:36 AM

first off, nice looking cabinet work, muddyhollow!! To Kneal: I have done exactly what you are going to do, if you're interested see my thread titled "up-date or leave original on '72?" Good luck and have fun!! -tim

pamelake · 01-20-2007, 12:03 PM

The counter top is stainless steel, which was a steal. I bought it at my favorite cheap stainless steel widget store, Ikea, on clearance for $25. You can buy them from the catalog as part of their varde collection. The countertop and the chest were my inspriation for the cabinets.

Doug[/quote]

Doug, Please tell me more about the stainless steel countertop. You say you purchased it at Ikea? Thanks Pam