80/20 Aluminum cabinets and benches renovation

[gklott]

Originally Posted by JohnnyAustin

So I was inspired by this thread and decided to use 80/20 aluminum to frame my interior. Great stuff. The dinette was a pain because of all the non-right angles. I’m hoping the rest goes a bit quicker.

Wowzers. Looking really good.

How deep are your bench seats, and how high are the backs?
What is the bench back angle offset?
What are you doing with the areas beneath the seats?

I am installing the drawers this week, and am selecting materials for drawer fronts and latches.

Yes, the other cabinet went faster, once you design in specific locations for batteries, chargers drawers, wiring, etc. The area over the wheel well and up against the refrigerator was also a bit tricky, and it required a couple of "tries".

As you found, getting the heights correct below the windows is critical, especialloy when adding a counter top.

73/gus

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Disable

Gklott, amazing work! I've tagged this material as what I would like to build most of my stuff. How did you mount everything to the walls?

Thanks. Continues to be a fun and rewarding project.

I primarily use the floor to anchor in place. For bolting to floor, I use a #10 stainless screw via a 80/20 parts mainly 4265, plus occasionally 4260, 4286, 4266, 4175 or 4113 where appropriate. For bolting to wall, I use a #10 stainless screw and part 4265.

I use 4265 to attach the counter tops, seat backs, etc. since it allows for a little adjustment.

We all quickly discover the floor isn't flat, the walls are not straight, and there are few, if any, right angles anywhere in an Airstream (as built). :-)

73/gus

[JohnnyAustin]

Originally Posted by gklott

Wowzers. Looking really good.

How deep are your bench seats, and how high are the backs?
What is the bench back angle offset?
What are you doing with the areas beneath the seats?

I am installing the drawers this week, and am selecting materials for drawer fronts and latches.

Yes, the other cabinet went faster, once you design in specific locations for batteries, chargers drawers, wiring, etc. The area over the wheel well and up against the refrigerator was also a bit tricky, and it required a couple of "tries".

As you found, getting the heights correct below the windows is critical, especialloy when adding a counter top.

73/gus

Seat backs are 15 inches high and seats are 22 inches deep. There will be 4 inch cushions. The seats recline at around a 7 degree angle. Hardest part were the corners where I had to deal with the 45 degree angle plus reclining seat. I built a trapezoidal frame out of angle aluminum and bent some flat bar to attach to frame. It came out well but was slow going to get everything right.

I had some mistakes when I started. It took a few tries to get the counter bore done well enough for the anchor fasteners. It’s easy to cut now but I had to learn to secure everything very well. It also took a bit of learning where various fasteners will work or not. For instance, you don’t want to cut an access hole through a solid decorative facing.

I used 1 inch pieces of 1 1/2 inch angled aluminum to secure in the corners. A cheap solution that worked well.

John

[JohnnyAustin]

Oh, and then there’s the dumb stuff. My plan was to insert 1/4 inch plywood panels into the tracks to close up the bottom. I even cut one panel before I realized that once the panels are installed you can’t get to the screw/connectors to tighten them or once you tighten the screws/connectors you can’t get the panels in place. Doh!!!

BTW. I’m just using plywood for seats and backs. Seats will just rest in place so I will be able to lift them out for access. I putting a drawer in the seat by the door.

[bolerama]

This is a wonderful thread. Excellent job on the build!

We toured the 80/20 facility and we were impressed. We wanted to use it to build twin beds in our Chinook motorhome. Unfortunately, it was cost prohibitive here in Canada. We love the look, weight, ease of installation.

Thanks for making this thread.

[SimRunner]

We converted our 2014 International Serenity 23FB bedroom from a queen bed to two 34” x 80” twin beds using 80/20 extruded aluminum. Pictures 1, 2, and 3 show the exterior panels mounted to 80/20 frames. See Picture 4 for one of the frames. I placed the project details on The 23 FB Forum at Post 1618 here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...166374-81.html if you are interested in the details.

I’m happy to answer questions posted to The 23 FB Forum.

[Hittenstiehl]

Slim that looks so good. Clean, and not sensitive to weathering under heat and water. Just reread the thread and several sprinter build outs.

[SimRunner]

Originally Posted by Hittenstiehl

Slim that looks so good. Clean, and not sensitive to weathering under heat and water. Just reread the thread and several sprinter build outs.

Thank you, Hittenstiehl. I used the 10 Series 1" based profiles. Below is what the frame in Picture 4 above looks like covered with wood/laminate panels.

[truckasaurus]

I'm thinking of using 80/20 for 90% of my entire rebuild project and wanted to ask how it all ended up? Did you find a good solution for the finishing panels? And if I may ask what dimensions did you find optimal for the seating?

[gklott]

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

Did you find a good solution for the finishing panels?

We ordered the 8 custom drawer boxes from Amish Cabinet Doors The drawer slides are Sugastune 304 Stainless Steel Drawer Slide, Full Extension, Positive Stop, available in many lengths via Amazon.

We are trying 1/4" Lexan or 3/8" Lexan for the drawer fronts. We may paint them.

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

And if I may ask what dimensions did you find optimal for the seating?

Our seat depth remains dynamic. We started with 17-1/2". We are trying 20", but we may go to 22". These wider seats make the internal dinette leg area smaller, which is why we wanted

We are using a Lagun table mount.

73/gus