Battery Disconnect Use/Store switch HELP!

[dabhunter]

I hope someone can help me resolve my problem with the
Battery Disconnect Intelllite BDO Use/Store switch

I am a newbie and this is my 1st posting/request.

We're the new owners of an 07’ 25FB Intl Queen with the Blue Sky Solar system & IPis Pro Remote display

My display shows Battery charge 100%.

My Battery Disconnect switch has the RED light and a rocker with two positions:
1, Use
2. Store

When the trailer is connected to shore power:
The position of the Use/Store switch doesn’t affect lights, fan, radio, etc all operate fine.
(BUT I have not determined if the switch turns off/on the charging of the batteries)

My problem is when shore AC power is removed.

1. Depress & HOLD switch on USE.
RED light turns on
Lights & Radio turn on
I hear a solenoid

Release the switch
Everything turns off

Repeat 5-10 times - same results

2. Depress & HOLD switch on STORE
Red light turns on
Lights & Radio turn on
I hear a solenoid

Release the switch
Everything turns off

Repeat 5-10 times - same results

BUT.......occasionally (in the STORE position) the lights stay on
And will remain on until Use / Store Switch is depressed.

The lights remaining on seems to be random with no pattern


WHAT is going on??
Can someone help me understand what is causing the problem and how to fix it?

Thank you all
BD in Richmond VA

[wulfraat]

BD - welcome to the forums! I had a 2008 25' so same configuration.

Based on your description it sounds like with the switch or solenoid may be faulty.

You shouldn't need to hold the switch to activate the solenoid that connects / disconnects the batteries from the 12v system in the trailer. You should only need to press and release. STORE disconnects the batteries, USE connects them.

This could be as simple as a loose connection at the solenoid switch. I believe in the 25FB it is located under the bed perhaps (mine was in the front of the trailer, but I had a rear bed model). If the wires are tight (first thing to check) then I would not be surprised if the solenoid action is "sticky" given that the switch is now 15 years old or so.

Hope that helps. It's a pretty basic little device so if you do need to replace it they are not too spendy and easy to swap once you locate it.

[Mollysdad]

I agree with Wulfrat. I never HOLD the switch. I admit it's confusing since it's a bit different from shore power to no shore power.

[Malia20]

I also agree with Wulfrat. Here's why... The use/store switch is a latching solenoid so it only uses power while the switch is depressed. Otherwise it is latched open or closed. When you press button to USE, a piston is pulled to the closed position, the lights go on and a latch is pulled into position to lock the piston closed. When the rocker switch is released, the switch stays closed. When switch is pressed to STORE, the piston is pulled closed (lights on) but now the latch is pushed out to open position. When the switch is released, the piston moves to open because the latch is not holding it closed. So any time the rocker switch is pushed, lights go on. It depends on where the latch is pushed as to whether the lights stay on. It sounds like your latch is not acting properly. Could be weak batteries or lose connections...or bad switch.
BTW, the red light on the switch is really telling you if there is power on the house side of the switch. This power could be from shore power, solar, or (if switch is depressed or in USE) from the batteries.
Good luck!
Fred

[david.steed]

Hi BD. I had to replace mine- piece of cake. I agree with what the others wrote.
Easiest thing first: if you need to, buy a cheap battery checker. Make sure battery(ies) are ok.

If good, next: get to the solenoid. There is a picture of it in your manual. If it is under your bed, it is way easier to remove the mattress, pull up some boards with a power screw driver- that takes 10 minutes. Then you can really get to it.

There are a bunch of wires to it- top and bottom, on the left and right sides. It sounds to me like a connection is bad. First see if a nut is loose. If so, there is a decent chance that is the whole problem. If there is corrosion, tape the wires together and remove them as a “set” then remove them clean all surfaces with a wire brush. Put them back with and tighten them... one set of wires at a time.

If a simple push on the switch doesn’t make a loud clicking sound, then it is likely your solenoid. Order/buy a new one. Replace it, in the same way just described, keeping the right wires where they belong.

There is a chance the switch itself is bad. Since I live in Europe and I was visiting the US when I bought those pieces, I bought the solenoid and the switch, just in case. They were about $100 or so. In the end the switch was fine, so I have an extra (actually they sold me the wrong one)... If you can drive to the AS dealer, TAKE THE PARTS WITH YOU to ensure you get exactly the items you need. Most importantly, GOOD LUCK.

From not so sunny right now, Im Fang, Switzerland... David

[OTRA15]

Welcome to the forum.

One "measure twice, cut once" suggestion . . . remove shore power before messing around with any wiring in your 2007 used trailer.

The life you save could be your own.

Good luck,

Peter

[uncle_bob]

Hi

2007 is far enough back that there may have been multiple owners of the trailer. I would not *assume* that anything is stock. I agree that the solenoid probably is worn out. I would strongly suggest you trace out what's what ( or have a pro do it for your).

Bob

[Backfortyjoe]

I just had to replace the solenoid. It would sound like it was working but never would transfers power to the 20’ FC. I metered it down to the bad relay/ solenoid. Easy fix but it was behind the fuse panel under the refrigerator. Good luck with your fix.

[dabhunter]

Thanks to all the recommendations and
I apologize for not sending an update sooner
I replaced the solenoid an it all works correctly.

I have have been consumed with renovating the AS.
Replaced the vinyl roll goods with Vinyl Plank Floors plus cut out
and replaced floor section that had a squeak.
Then converted the queen to twins.
Almost finished and looking forward to using the new improved configuration.
Thanks again for all the advice
Bill
Richmond Va

[wulfraat]

Originally Posted by dabhunter

Thanks to all the recommendations and
I apologize for not sending an update sooner
I replaced the solenoid an it all works correctly.

I have have been consumed with renovating the AS.
Replaced the vinyl roll goods with Vinyl Plank Floors plus cut out
and replaced floor section that had a squeak.
Then converted the queen to twins.
Almost finished and looking forward to using the new improved configuration.
Thanks again for all the advice
Bill
Richmond Va

Sweet! Glad you got it fixed. Sounds like a great refresh of a great trailer! Enjoy!

[Castaway]

If the solenoid is bad could it work intermittingly? There are time that I test my batteries with a voltmeter and it reads 13.4 , if I switch disconnect switch from USE to STORE and then back the meter reads whatever the battery is.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Castaway

If the solenoid is bad could it work intermittingly? There are time that I test my batteries with a voltmeter and it reads 13.4 , if I switch disconnect switch from USE to STORE and then back the meter reads whatever the battery is.

Hi

Anything is possible. It's also possible that the converter is doing odd things when the load goes to zero and then spikes. Simple answer would be to watch both the converter and the battery.

Bob

[Bgibbs]

I just installed new batteries and the Use/Store switch has me confused. I'm hooked up to shore power and the Use/Store light is on. Pressing the switch either way and the red light stays on. I have checked voltage at batteries and it is 12.6v with switch in either position. I can hear solenoid switch but don't know if it is turning on or off.

[Bgibbs]

I have a Boondocker 4-stage inverter/charger.

[TeddyK]

Mine does the same…watching

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Grab your multimeter and check the voltage output posts on the Boondocker. It should run up to well over 13V with the shore power connected to it. There is a breaker that feeds it. Toggling the breaker is a quick way to check it with and without shore power.

When you go on or off charge, the battery voltage will not change instantly. After charging, it will be up at 13.2 or maybe 13.6 volts. Take it off charge and it will slowly drift lower. Eventually it will stop drifting around 12.6V. Put it on charge and it will take a while to move up above 13V. Current is flowing to make this happen.

No none of this works as a "fast check". You leave things on for a couple hours and then come back and see what's happened. That's just the way batteries work.

Bob

[david.steed]

Just a note on multimeters- my Swiss German trailer specialist showed me the difference between a professional one and an inexpensive one- my typical cheaper one was so far off I tossed it. Also, my new Liontron lithium battery has a great app which shows immediate changes in load and lots of information. Comparing the readings lead me to the conclusion my fancy solar controller is also not very accurate.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Bgibbs

I just installed new batteries and the Use/Store switch has me confused. I'm hooked up to shore power and the Use/Store light is on. Pressing the switch either way and the red light stays on. I have checked voltage at batteries and it is 12.6v with switch in either position. I can hear solenoid switch but don't know if it is turning on or off.

When connected to shore power the light is always on whether the switch is on or off. If not connected to shore power the light is on only when the switch is in the on position.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Sure, a Fluke this or that will do better than the $20 gizmo from the big box store. I have gear at home that will make any hand held meter look pathetic. There is gear out there ( in the > $20,000 range ) that blows away my home lab stuff. Welcome to electronics.

All that said, what you are after here is knowing if (say) your lead acid battery is at 12.6 or 12.5V. You don't really need to know that it is at 12.59 or 12.59823. Yes it's fun to have all those extra digits. They don't help much in terms of fixing the problem at hand.

A tenth of a volt out of 12.6V is just a bit better than 1%. Most of the low cost meters out there at least claim to be better than 0.2%. Some claim much better specs. Since 1% is getting you close, the need to spend $300 on a better meter ( as I typically do ) isn't all that great.

Why spend more?

You don't just measure voltage all the time. Current gets into the act as well. Being able to read fairly low levels of currents is a nice thing. Clamp on meters are a lot easier to use when troubleshooting than inline current meters. Combine the desire ( it's not a need ....) for a 40A full scale AC/DC clamp feature with all the rest and the price goes up.

Before things get to crazy, yes, if you are shipping a product and certifying it there are limits. If your product is supposed to be within 1% of 12.6V then the meter should be at least 5X better than the 1% spec on the product. That's a different application than simply troubleshooting your RV ....

Fun !!

Bob