Wiring in a new starter...need help

[NW Tradewins]

This is my second post , other than an intro when joining..
I have a 1977 argosy 24 ft Motorhome.
I paid a guy to take out the starter to replace. He removed it and was to come back to install, which I paid him for, but he disappeared with my money . I just mounted the started myself, but have no idea where all the wires go, since I didnt see it before it was removed. Anybody have a diagram?
Thanks
NW Tradewins

[Smartstream]

Originally Posted by NW Tradewins

This is my second post , other than an intro when joining..
I have a 1977 argosy 24 ft Motorhome.
I paid a guy to take out the starter to replace. He removed it and was to come back to install, which I paid him for, but he disappeared with my money . I just mounted the started myself, but have no idea where all the wires go, since I didnt see it before it was removed. Anybody have a diagram?
Thanks
NW Tradewins

This is the Chevy starter.



The small wire goes on the "switch" terminal. The heavy cable is from the battery and goes on the large terminal the the top and there should be 1 or 2 smaller wires with large rings that go on the terminal with the battery cable. These provide power to the dash and ignition switch and probably have a fusible link in them.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Terminal "B" (red) is the power wire.

Terminal "S" starter wire, most likely tan with a locking spade connector.

Terminal "M" power wire from bendix to starter, part of the starter.

Bob

[richinny]

NW Tradewins

the battery should be disconnected before working with the starter wires. use a meter or test light to verify that there is no power to the large wire going to the starter. accidentally shorting that cable will cause quite a shower of sparks and damage if shorted by a wrench. make sure the wires do not rub against the engine or exhaust pipe. the wires sometimes hold the bends and might line up the the contacts on the starter. be careful not to overtighten the wires to the starter. the solenoid that they mount to is plastic. you want them just tight enough so that the wires make a good contact and don't move under nuts that hold them. the bolts that mount the starter must be tightened similar changing a tire but a little less. also there is sometimes a bracket that goes from the engine the tail (opposite side from the nose) of the starter. don't forget to reconnect the battery :-)

once you get going you can swing by any shop to have them recheck the work if you feel the need.

[NW Tradewins]

Thanks to all who contributed! I have to repair a connector and then I'll get this going today and look forward to share my adventures with all of you. What a great community! May 2013 exceed all of your expectations!
Jeff

[Timotreous]

Hey fellas,


After putting it off for way to long I decided to finally replace my starter with a brand new one. After troubleshooting and testing, it need to go.

So, I got it from autozone, came home and pulled the broken starter, and then went to mount the new one...

...it was the wrong mount?? Confused and frustrated I went back to autozone. It's the right one by their book, but clearly doesn't line up with mine.

The original (my broken one) is a two bolt and the bolts are (for lack of a better term) evenly spaced. But on the so called replacement the bolt holes are offset and too deep for the original bolts anyway.

Has anyone replaced their starter ( mine is a 81 chassis) and run into this problem? I ran the original starter part number (delco remy 1998205) but its replacement's mount is not even close. UGH! I hate to think some PO's previous mechanic rigged something crazy up.

What starter should replace mine?

[drunkensloth]

I've had some strange dealings like that before with some of my vehicles. Have you thought about trying to find someone locally that can repair the one you have? It might cost a bit more but you know it will fit and I guarantee it will be higher quality than what you get from a parts store as reman.

[ROBERT CROSS]

AZ couldn't match the starter by comparing with the original?
1998205
I've always had pretty good luck taking the OEM part with me.
It is noted as obsolete on some sites, you may have to go to a rebuilder.

Bob

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Timotreous

Hey fellas,


After putting it off for way to long I decided to finally replace my starter with a brand new one. After troubleshooting and testing, it need to go.

So, I got it from autozone, came home and pulled the broken starter, and then went to mount the new one...

...it was the wrong mount?? Confused and frustrated I went back to autozone. It's the right one by their book, but clearly doesn't line up with mine.

The original (my broken one) is a two bolt and the bolts are (for lack of a better term) evenly spaced. But on the so called replacement the bolt holes are offset and too deep for the original bolts anyway.

Has anyone replaced their starter ( mine is a 81 chassis) and run into this problem? I ran the original starter part number (delco remy 1998205) but its replacement's mount is not even close. UGH! I hate to think some PO's previous mechanic rigged something crazy up.

What starter should replace mine?

what it sounds like they tried to sell you is a later model staggerbolt starter. You need a parallel bolt starter.
Whenever you get the right starter, make sure you reinstall the third mounting bolt and bracket at the back of the starter. Most people don't, and it causes problems with the starter down the road.

[Timotreous]

Well, I have to admit I feel kinda dumb. So, I bought the AZ starter before taking out the old one (so I could have it there for instant replacing) so I assumed it would fit. I took the old one down and slid out from underneath the chassis and thats when I compared the two and found the mounting holes where different as well as the original bolts where about an 1" too short to even make it through the new starter holes.

Thats where my confusion came from. So, I discussed with AZ, I posted here, you all answered, I slept on it, and decided to take one last look in the morning. The original owner kept ALL of his work receipts so I started going through those and found he had the flywheel and starter replaced twice in about 6 months time back in 92'. There was a charge for "mounting bracket." Ah ha! I assumed the mechanic had jimmy'ed up something unique to make the current starter fit. So, I took one last look and to my surprise there are 3 threaded holes= 2 mounting options. One for (my original starter) the parallel bolt pattern and one for the staggered. The mounting bracket must have been what Overlander mentioned (which is no longer there). I got new longer bolts and after some awkward heavy lifting I was able to get my new Duralast Gold starter to fit. Best part is, it starts right up nice and strong now every time.

As always, thanks for all the input! As I'm currently working on engine stuff this isn't even close to my last newbie question! Thanks.--Tim

[ROBERT CROSS]

Well as long as you only feel dumb....
Much better than being

Bob

[richinny]

there should be a rear support bracket for the starter. i've only seen them on the high torque gm starters. they are a bit longer than the regular starters. you can tell by the copper sleeve that runs between the positive starter tab and the solenoid.

[richinny]

related thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f310...elp-95400.html

[overlander63]

FYI, that bracket is an L shaped piece that goes from the longer threaded bolt that holds the starter case to the housing to the engine block. You should be able to find one, maybe even in a salvage yard. They aren't expensive, though somewhat a PITA to install, which is why most of them don't get put back on. Then the replacement starter has problems, such as hanging up or dragging, and the replacement starter gets blamed.
FWIW, it would be a good idea to try to find the heat shield that originally covered the solenoid, and kept it from being baked by heat from the exhaust manifold.