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Old 06-30-2017, 05:03 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by JMynes View Post
I have done exactly what you speak of and got away with it for the most part.
The 20 amp breaker would occasionally trip. No big deal, right?
Well, at 1AM I decided it WAS a big deal. I put in a Micro-Air Easy Start and it fixed that problem.
I would watch for voltage drop in the trailer. On one outside outlet in the rear of the house I needed an extension cord and got concerned when I saw 104 volts in the trailer (AC running). I plugged in to an outlet in the front of the house, same circuit but much nearer the service panel, and eliminated the extension cord. Now the lowest voltage I see is 118 (AC running).
I'll look into the Easy Start. In one respect I'm lucky since the outdoor outlet on my garage is directly adjacent to where I park the trailer and is no more than 10 feet from the power panel. I only use the trailer power cable and a dog bone. I'll monitor the voltage at the trailer to be sure. Thanks.
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Old 07-01-2017, 10:01 AM   #22
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Will an A/C work at a 15 amp service camp site?

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Typical 13.5k or 15k but AC draws just over 16amps


Well I guess that is the rated draw on a hot day.... I was able to run my Ac yesterday (with an easy start, 75 degrees outside) on 15A service. Nothing else in the trailer running....

I was wrong
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Old 07-01-2017, 10:12 AM   #23
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The earlier posts raise an important point. First, the Easy Start is not only going to reduce the starting current but its protective features will block against low voltage. If you just run your AC on a 15 or 20 amp circuit and it does not trip on starts you should still monitor the voltage. Low voltage means higher current and that will reduce the life of your compressor motor, if you care about that. I am not qualified to say exactly what voltage level should bother you. This is always a concern, even with a 30 amp connection, in crowded campgrounds.

Larry
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Old 07-01-2017, 10:15 AM   #24
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The easy start needs to see a pretty big drop in voltage before it cuts off the current - in my tests at altitude it would only cut off the compressor around 95volts. I'd have to check the plate on the AC unit but I think it wants to see 115 volts per its spec. I don't think I'd want to run it below 110v
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Old 07-01-2017, 07:57 PM   #25
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Hi

The only *good* way to find out if the load is to much for the supply circuit is to measure it with a meter. Depending on safety devices to measure it for you is not the best way. Surprisingly, breakers are only rated for a pretty low number of "cycles". That's why you don't use then as switches.

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Old 07-17-2017, 02:16 PM   #26
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This thread has pretty much died out, but FWIW we just finished 3 weeks on the road with our Tradewind, and I found that a 15 amp service would run the A/C as long as everything else including the converter was turned off, with minimal voltage drop. (My AC power panel is Blue Sea System with built in digital multimeter.) This requires using the 30 amp power cord all the way to the power outlet, and a CLEAN 15 - 30 converter plug at the outlet.
Using a cheap 16 gauge extension cord, (which I tried once when the outlet was too far from the trailer) you will definitely see a voltage drop as the cord heats up.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:17 PM   #27
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I am not qualified to say exactly what voltage level should bother you.

Larry
Motors are rated with a 10% + or - factor per UL standards. A motor rated at 115 volts can operate at 103.5 to 126.5 volts. Would I want to run my AC at 103.5 volts? No, but that's the accepted industry standard.
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Old 07-18-2017, 10:48 AM   #28
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I see a current draw of 14.7 amps when the 13.5K A/C is running in our 2015 23D International Serenity in our RV park. That does not reflect the current draw during startup.

A Rigid Industries (or equivalent) #10 wire 25' extension cord could be used with the short 30 amp to 15 amp pigtail from Furion into a in good shape 20 amp rated outlet. Everything else in the trailer would have to be off that can be turned off including the Airstream installed converter.
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