The mysterious world of electricity, or......

[krowsea]

....Watts on my mind?

I'm going to be testing my Sovereign's elctrical system this weekend, in order to find out why some things work and others don't, as I mentioned before. I'll be checking the Univolt and fuses, and installing a brand spank'n new Optima battery.

Now, I've already learned the secrets of electricity, taught to me by an old-time electrician using texts and scrolls unearthed from an ancient cavern hidden under an aluminum pyramid in ancient Egypt. You can assume I know the basics. For instance, I know that electricity travels as smoke through the wires. I've proved this theory many times myself. In the mutiple instances where I've inadvertantly dropped a hair dryer in the tub (I'm probably the reason those dumb tags are on there now) or wired 220V while standing barefoot in a puddle of water during a lightning storm, I've encountered an occasional short in a wire. Each time the wire shorted, the electricity would make a small hole in the wire and smoke would come out of it. Off course, once the smoke was gone, no more electricity, thus confirming the ancient lore.

What I don't know is, once the smoke (I mean electricity..wink wink) passes into the trailer from the city power, does it stay 110V, or does that VooDoo magic box of a Univolt convert it into 12V? For testing lights and outlets and such, which tester do I bring? It's got city power pluged into it's shiny aluminum side, and its got a brand new battery hidden within the bowels of it's structure. The mystery then is, which one of the two powers wins the battle for electrical domination within my A/S. Who's minions of darkness am I looking for, 12V or 110V?

Thanks in advance, as the emergency room may not let me thank you after the fact, plus there will be lawyers and such hang'n 'round, it could get ugly.

John-Boy

[thenewkid64]

Both exist in the Aluminum world.

The 120 VAC will be connected to the wall outlets, feed the roof AC, and connect to the Univolt. The 12VDC will feed the lights, the fans, the furnace, the refer control, the jack, and the control panel. Be careful on the 12 volt connections to the battery, they will be close to the chassis and could arc as you slide the battery in and out of the box.

[till]

Working at a place where smoke is put in to small wires, I know what you mean about letting it out. It is very hard installing smoke!!!!

From what I have learned from the high priests of smoke, the Univolt is the source of the 12V smoke. 12V smoke is stored in the battery for use when the 110V source is not there.

[InsideOut]

It is very hard installing smoke!!!!

I've heard mirrors help ~

Shari

[krowsea]

Originally Posted by InsideOut

I've heard mirrors help ~

Shari

So.... that's why they polish Airstreams!

John-Boy

[krowsea]

Originally Posted by thenewkid64

Both exist in the Aluminum world.

The 120 VAC will be connected to the wall outlets, feed the roof AC, and connect to the Univolt. The 12VDC will feed the lights, the fans, the furnace, the refer control, the jack, and the control panel. Be careful on the 12 volt connections to the battery, they will be close to the chassis and could arc as you slide the battery in and out of the box.

Thanks Brett,

Great info. That's just the kind of stuff I was looking for. With my A/C and outlets working, but my lights and such not, that gives me a direction to start from. Is there perchance, anything I need to do or look out for, if the battery is hooked up, but the trailer is also hooked to city power full time? Any Univolt or charging issues, or does everything play well together?

John-Boy

[Tinsel Loaf]

So that’s why cigarettes have taken a lot of heat lately. Producing to much electricity in the air and the paper not providing enought insulation. I see, taking them outside is really for the protection of others? What mysteries about alcohol don't we know about yet. WOW what an interesting forum, ya learn somthing new everyday!!!!

[krowsea]

Originally Posted by Tinsel Loaf

So that’s why cigarettes have taken a lot of heat lately. Producing to much electricity in the air and the paper not providing enought insulation. I see, taking them outside is really for the protection of others? What mysteries about alcohol don't we know about yet. WOW what an interesting forum, ya learn somthing new everyday!!!!

Well cigarettes, or self depleting electrical generators as we say in the business, are an interesting source of dispersable power. Why else would you get so much 'static' when you ignite one?

Alcohol now, that's a subject that you're going to have to show your secret ID card if you want to burrow into the bottom of the bottle for info. The person in charge of Alcoholic Security, Capt. Morgan I think, is not free with information. Heyyyyy, wait a minute, doesn't he drive a Cigarette boat? A coincidence, I think not.

John-Boy

[Tinsel Loaf]

John-Boy
There is no such thing as 'Coincidence'.

[krowsea]

Originally Posted by Tinsel Loaf

John-Boy
There is no such thing as 'Coincidence'.

That's amazing, I was just thinking the same thing. What a coincid.... oh, nevermind.

John-Boy

[JohnG]

Originally Posted by Tinsel Loaf

John-Boy
There is no such thing as 'Coincidence'.

Correct! It's a Happenstance.......

[thenewkid64]

Originally Posted by krowsea

Thanks Brett,

Is there perchance, anything I need to do or look out for, if the battery is hooked up, but the trailer is also hooked to city power full time? Any Univolt or charging issues, or does everything play well together?

That answer is a qualified maybe

If all that is wrong is the battery is dead, then new battery and viola! all the 12 volt works again. I would have the 120 VAC power cord unplugged when you install the battery, or turn off / unplug the univolt while doing the install. This will help to assure you the univolt does not get shorted to ground while messing with the wires. You should also test run the 12 volt stuff before turning on the univolt to develop a base line of functionality.

[74Argosy24MH]

Originally Posted by krowsea

Any Univolt or charging issues, or does everything play well together?

A Univolt is not a good charger for gel cell battery. They were designed when lead acid was the norm, charging requirements are completely different. It will work but the battery will suffer.

John

[thenewkid64]

Good catch John, I reread the thread and now see he is going to use an Optima. It may be time to get an intellipower, it has settings to charge different type of batteries so it won't kill a gel based or glass mat battery.

[krowsea]

Originally Posted by thenewkid64

Good catch John, I reread the thread and now see he is going to use an Optima. It may be time to get an intellipower, it has settings to charge different type of batteries so it won't kill a gel based or glass mat battery.

If I dive off the deep end, and decide to add the Intellipower to my already overflowing list of must haves, do I need to keep and adapt the Univolts fuse panel, or will my life be complete, the sun will be bright and the birds will sing if I merely replace one with the other?

John-Boy

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by krowsea

If I dive off the deep end, and decide to add the Intellipower to my already overflowing list of must haves, do I need to keep and adapt the Univolts fuse panel, or will my life be complete, the sun will be bright and the birds will sing if I merely replace one with the other?

John-Boy

My understanding is that you will need the fuse panel from the Univolt, believe there are some pictures posted somewhere around here? I am considering the upgrade to Intellipower along with a marine style 12v circuit breaker panel...

Aaron

[thenewkid64]

Originally Posted by krowsea

If I dive off the deep end, and decide to add the Intellipower to my already overflowing list of must haves, do I need to keep and adapt the Univolts fuse panel, or will my life be complete, the sun will be bright and the birds will sing if I merely replace one with the other?

John-Boy

It is one of those it depends things

Depending on the year the fuse panel is part of the univolt. Yours could be in a remote location. If it is remote, then you are golden. If is part of the univolt, you will either need to dissect the univolt to reserve the panel, or get a replacement. If you get a replacement you could get one that uses the new blade style vs. the older glass fuse model. Most marine stores will sell a fuse block that can be mounted remote, just be sure to get one with enough slots.

[krowsea]

Originally Posted by thenewkid64

It is one of those it depends things

If you get a replacement you could get one that uses the new blade style vs. the older glass fuse model. Most marine stores will sell a fuse block that can be mounted remote, just be sure to get one with enough slots.

Well, since the company I work for sells a multitude of hot rod, race car and performance parts, including electronics from this company http://www.painlessperformance.com/catalogframe.htm
I'll probably use one of their fuse panels if I need to switch. I'm hoping I don't have to switch anything out, but we'll see. Their complete fuse panels have circuits I don't need, along with some flashers and relays, but I can exclude those and relabel as needed.

John-Boy

[thenewkid64]

Originally Posted by krowsea

I'll probably use one of their fuse panels if I need to switch. I'm hoping I don't have to switch anything out, but we'll see. Their complete fuse panels have circuits I don't need, along with some flashers and relays, but I can exclude those and relabel as needed.

Cool, Parts at work!

There will only be 4 to 6 circuits to feed from the battery. The 4 fuse holders X 2 plus a couple of maxi fuse holders for the main feeds would do.

[wahoonc]

Major Kewl! I want the flashers...be the FIRST in YOUR at your Airstream rally with the neon and really cool flashing light system. Gotta love it, if we want flashers we just plug one in the 7 way. Makes you easy to find and the life of the party

krowsea, any Airstream discounts?

Aaron