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Old 12-29-2006, 08:54 PM   #1
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switches on 73 25ft tradewind?

Hi Guys, Any help would be appreciated. I have ended up with a direct short blowing my circuit #3 fuse imeadiatly, this fuse controls power to the outside light and switch closest to the door, there is another switch beside it that I would like to Isolate but I don't know what it does, any Ideas? and is there a schematic for this airstream available? I reciently replaced some broken rivets in the overhead panel and think I have drilled thru a pink wire causing this problem.
Thanks
Mark
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Old 12-29-2006, 09:41 PM   #2
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sounds like you already found the problem , now you need to run a new wire or if possible repair the short. good luck!
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Old 12-30-2006, 02:35 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lexusparts
...switch closest to the door, there is another switch beside it that I would like to Isolate but I don't know what it does, ...
Mark,

Both my Ovelander and Sovereign have three switches forward of the door, two very near the door frame and one further forward on the wall. The forward switch controls the outside circular light.

In the Overlander the two switches that are close together control the outside over-the-door light and the over-the-sink light (this is a two-way switch, with the other switch right on the light fixture).

In the Sovereign, they are both two-way switches, one for the forward overhead light and one for the over-the-sink light.

Zep
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Old 12-30-2006, 03:03 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
In the Overlander the two switches that are close together control the outside over-the-door light and the over-the-sink light (this is a two-way switch, with the other switch right on the light fixture).
Zep
This is the same setup I have in my 75 Trade Wind...
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Old 12-30-2006, 08:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
Mark,
In the Overlander the two switches that are close together control the outside over-the-door light and the over-the-sink light (this is a two-way switch, with the other switch right on the light fixture).
Zep
This was the same setup in my '77 Excella 500 with the addition of another switch forward to operate the scare light. I sure miss the switch which operates the over the sink light. It was nice to open the door at night and turn this light on before stepping into the trailer. My '86 has two switches on the left entrance panel next to my stove/oven which operate the outside entrance light and the other the scare light.
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Old 12-30-2006, 08:40 AM   #6
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Richard,
You have the same setup I had in my '77 Excella 500. I sure miss the ability to open the door and turn the interior light on from outside before stepping into the trailer at night.
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Old 12-30-2006, 02:03 PM   #7
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Same for my '74 Trade Wind.
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Old 12-30-2006, 07:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lexusparts
Hi Guys, Any help would be appreciated. I have ended up with a direct short blowing my circuit #3 fuse imeadiatly, this fuse controls power to the outside light and switch closest to the door, there is another switch beside it that I would like to Isolate but I don't know what it does, any Ideas? and is there a schematic for this airstream available? I reciently replaced some broken rivets in the overhead panel and think I have drilled thru a pink wire causing this problem.
Thanks
Mark
Mark,
Ask and ye shall receive

Hope this helps.

Aaron
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 12v Electric Schematic 25LY.pdf (53.3 KB, 70 views)
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Old 01-06-2007, 09:34 AM   #9
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2 Switches

I have one of the base model 72 Tradewinds and I also have 2 switches. ONe is for the light over the door the other is for the scare light. Hope that helps.
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:59 AM   #10
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I also have those 2 switches and I am looking for direct replacement at a reasonable price. Can anyone help me? I need only the switches since the faceplates are in great shape.
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Old 01-15-2007, 08:20 PM   #11
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Replacement Switches

I replaced my switches. I got 2 12volt switched the same size from a local RV dealer. I have seen the same thing on several RV supply sites. Make sure you use 12 volt switches. My plates were not interchangeable so I mounted the new plate as well.

If you also do the light over the door be sure to insulate the socket and ground wire from the body of the trailer. The newer systems are one wire the old used a separate reurn wire.

The switches were not expensive. As I recall they were abut $5+ ea. a couple of years ago.
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Old 01-16-2007, 12:08 AM   #12
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Look what Chuck had ot say to me on 01/15/2007. Just do a search "Electrical Wire Colors Equals What Device".... Nevertheless, here it is and I hope it helps you as it helped me:

"like the 2 switches by the door; you said that on yours, one is above the other? mine are side by side.
anyway, one of those switches controls the "porch light". (the outside light over the door). The other controls power to the light over the galley. but its not a "3-way" switch, which is kind of confusing. There is a switch on the galley fixture, too. The door switch lets 12v get to the fixture; the switch on the fixture turns the light on and off. If you leave the fixture swtich "on", then you can turn the light on and off using the door switch. If the door switch is in the "off" position, the galley light won't work at all.
the other switch that is further forward controlls the "scare light", which is the big round light on the side of the trailer, just forward of the window. The switch on mine is adjacent to the fixture. (also forward of the window)".
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:19 PM   #13
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My switches are just like detailed above except that the light for over the galley is a true 3 way switch. Switching either the one by the door or the switch on the light will reverse the lights function.
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Old 01-18-2007, 05:10 PM   #14
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double throw

Now you have me curious about the revese (double throw) switching? I still have to replace switch #2. I still want to remove & clean out the light socket forst, but I may have to dig out the meter before that and see if it does reverse switch?
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Old 01-18-2007, 05:15 PM   #15
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It may be a year related item. My 75 has a true 3 way switch. It should have an extra terminal on it, versus a normal switch.

Aaron
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Old 01-18-2007, 05:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
It may be a year related item. My 75 has a true 3 way switch. It should have an extra terminal on it, versus a normal switch.

Aaron
All the rocker switches are still available from a dealer.

Airstream used SPST, single pole single throw, SPDT, single pole double throw, as well as some momentary switches.

Different years used different styles.

Andy
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Old 01-18-2007, 06:07 PM   #17
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Ground side switch?

On the subject of switches......I was looking at my schematic and noticed that the step light is power to light to switch on a terminated switch line...which is why I put an insulated pad under the socket. I noticed the scare light (which I have not yet hacked into) is a straight power to switch to ground.

I am just curious is there any reason to switch one light on the power side and the other on the ground side, or is it just one of those pecularities of how it is done?
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Old 01-18-2007, 07:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin Camel
On the subject of switches......I was looking at my schematic and noticed that the step light is power to light to switch on a terminated switch line...which is why I put an insulated pad under the socket. I noticed the scare light (which I have not yet hacked into) is a straight power to switch to ground.

I am just curious is there any reason to switch one light on the power side and the other on the ground side, or is it just one of those pecularities of how it is done?
I don't know why they did it that way either. Maybe they were trying to save 25 cents on wire? Who knows. The Scare Light is a large fixture with lots of surface area that rests against the skin of the trailer, maybe that has something to do with it. Large area=good gound, not likely to fail. The other two switches by the door both pull ground from the white ground wire that pulls throughout the entire trailer on my '73 as well.

I have traced all of the DC wire as part of my "Full Monty". If you look at the last few post here http://www.airforums.com/forum...-15132-26.html you can get a pretty good idea of where everything is (at least on the '73 Overlander).

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Old 01-19-2007, 09:14 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin Camel
On the subject of switches......I was looking at my schematic and noticed that the step light is power to light to switch on a terminated switch line...which is why I put an insulated pad under the socket. I noticed the scare light (which I have not yet hacked into) is a straight power to switch to ground.

I am just curious is there any reason to switch one light on the power side and the other on the ground side, or is it just one of those pecularities of how it is done?
Just one of those "who knows why?"

A "good" reason is not to be found.

Andy
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Old 01-20-2007, 06:09 PM   #20
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AS Mystery Method

I had to hear it from an expert, though I thought that it would be another AS mystery. Maybe that is why I am enjoying this hobby. There are a few absolutes, but very few. As often many ways of doing the same thing and niether is truly incorrect.......Thanks Jim, Susan & Andy.
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