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Old 07-03-2018, 02:46 PM   #1
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2018 20' Flying Cloud
Nashville , Tennessee
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 27
Swapped 12V to 6V

The two Interstate SRM-24 12 Volt batteries that came in my 2018 Flying Cloud 20FB were suspect from the get go. After removing them and attempting to charge them individually they would not take a charge. I have an Interstate Battery distributer close to my house with a service counter. I took them down there and they confirmed they were toast.

They were dated August 2017 and under warranty. I opted to replace them with Interstate GC2-ECL-UTL 6V deep cycle golf cart batteries. I had taken measurements of my battery box and was confident these would fit. These cost a little more than the warrantied group 24's so the pair cost me an additional $70 after the credit from the warranty was applied.

The two batteries fit in the battery box allowing the lid to close without any modifications other than removing the plastic tray in the bottom. My understanding is the newer Airstreams like mine have a deeper box than previous models.

I purchased the following:
1 foot 2/0 gauge wire with ring terminals on each end (welding supply) $8.00
2 ring terminals for 6 gauge wire $2.00

I connected a pos post on one battery to the negative post on the other with the 2/0 wire I had fab'd up creating a single 12 volt cell. The new batteries only had threaded posts(no large post to clamp to) so I cut off the clamp style terminals on the 6 gauge wire running from the trailer and replaced these with the 6 gauge ring terminals. I then connected these, along with the positive and negative leads from the converter (I think thats what they go), and the leads from the solar plug to the free positive and negative posts. There is also a wire from the power jack that connects to the positive post.

Everything seems to be working so far. We'll see how they last in the long run. With the updated battery box on my 2018 I was able to fit these batteries and use the factory clamp to hold the batteries in without modification of the box. I did have to slightly bend down the fuse on the top of the positive terminal connector going to the converter.

If my calculations are right I went from 92.6 pounds of batteries on the tongue providing roughly 160 Amp Hours (80AH usable to 50% depletion) of 12 volt power to 124 pounds of batteries on the tongue providing 225 Amp Hours (112.5 AH usable to 50% depletion). Total cost was around $80 with the warranty credit on the original group 24 12 volts.

The first photo is the original group 24's wired in parallel. The trailer main is wired to one set of posts and the converter is wired to the other set. Not sure why they did it this way.

The second photo is of the 6 volts wired in series.
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Old 07-03-2018, 03:55 PM   #2
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2017 25' Flying Cloud
Fayetteville , Arkansas
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I had the very same issue with my two 12V Interstates when I purchased my trailer. I wanted to do the same replacement. Our Interstate folks would not allow for the substitution. I could only get direct replacements. Thanks for the report. I still plan on going to 6V when the time comes.
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Old 07-03-2018, 05:25 PM   #3
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2007 22' International CCD
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There have been several discussions on the merits of going from parallel 12 volt batteries to two 6 volt batteries in series.

I, for one, think 2 6-volt batteries are easier to manage, and stay better matched. Mine are CG-2 type golf cart batteries from Sam's club or Costco--easy to find replacements pretty much anywhere I go...but they sure are heavy buggers...
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:21 PM   #4
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2022 Interstate 24X
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Hi

Both the series and parallel configurations have their weaknesses. Both will nuke the pair of batteries if a cell shorts.

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Old 07-03-2018, 09:10 PM   #5
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Swapped 12V to 6V

Biggest problem I have is with parallel batteries if one shorts, they fry whether the charger has power or not, and it’s hard to disconnect parallel batteries quickly.

With a series connection a battery disconnect switch flat stops the meltdown. Since I have a positive acting battery switch that kills all power, I feel it’s a bit safer.
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Old 07-04-2018, 05:50 AM   #6
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2018 20' Flying Cloud
Nashville , Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Biggest problem I have is with parallel batteries if one shorts, they fry whether the charger has power or not, and it’s hard to disconnect parallel batteries quickly.

With a series connection a battery disconnect switch flat stops the meltdown. Since I have a positive acting battery switch that kills all power, I feel it’s a bit safer.
Where is your kill switch? Is it inline inside the battery box?
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Old 07-04-2018, 11:49 AM   #7
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2017 27' International
Fall City , Washington
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I did the exact same swap for the same reason on our 17 27FB, but I also swapped out the converter. Instead of terminal rings I bought a pair of screw on terminal lugs.
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Old 07-04-2018, 12:05 PM   #8
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Swapped 12V to 6V

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate L View Post
Where is your kill switch? Is it inline inside the battery box?


It’s a BlueSea single pole disconnect switch neatly mounted to the outside of the battery box. It’s water resistant. I don’t have enough depth to put it inside the box. This way I can get to it very quickly. The battery box is a bit hard to get open because it is strapped shut, and I’d rather not fumble with it when I’m having an electrical issue. There is an 80 amp fuse on the positive battery post for wire protection (added by me, but Airstream should have put one in standard at the factory, IMHO). I do not have an inverter (yet) so this protects wiring.
Use a similar one inside the wardrobe as a safety cut-off for the solar panels combiner box feed to the controller.
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Old 07-04-2018, 02:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Biggest problem I have is with parallel batteries if one shorts, they fry whether the charger has power or not, and it’s hard to disconnect parallel batteries quickly.

With a series connection a battery disconnect switch flat stops the meltdown. Since I have a positive acting battery switch that kills all power, I feel it’s a bit safer.
Indeed... I see no place that they put a fuse link from the battery to the RV anywhere.. you might want to add one of the buss 100 amp blade fuse's to the box next to the battery so that if you do get a short.. it stop AT THE BATTERY in the box... and not burn up everything else in the Rv.

I too am going through the addition of the two 6 v GC batts too... along with the new Progressive Design 80 amp converter...

It was simple to hook up... and should be the way that AS should have put the batteries in...

Now just what to do with the old battery boxes built into the hull of the trailer... as they will be empty... grin..

WA6CDE
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Old 07-04-2018, 07:40 PM   #10
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2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth , Texas
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I believe the RVIA code requires a protective device with in 18" of each battery. Look for a resetting circuit breaker within that distance. Also, I have seen automatic resetting circuit breakers used for that purpose. They can be very dangerous if a low grade short occurs, as in time, a fire from the heat could result. I would always use a manual resetting CB or fuze for that reason even if it is inconvenient to reset.
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Old 07-06-2018, 05:26 PM   #11
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I too switched to the same 6V batteries with a Duracell EGC2 label from Sams Club. Both are actually relabeled high quality Dema East-Penn batteries. I’ve been impressed by how these 6Vs perform compared to the original 12Vs and highly recommend this modification

(Then add 400W of solar panels with these batteries and you will think you have a perpetual motion machine!)
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