"Store" Mode

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

"Any comments on the Knife top mount disconnect switch? I used on my 25' for 3 years and never had any issues. I just got this one and am about to install in my 28'. Thoughts?"

I'm sure it will work fine, keep the contacts clean.
The caution of a knife switch is all the exposed metal if you use it on the + side. It's very easy to touch it with a wrench and cause a short.

BTW, while watching a YouTube video from Patrick (superb), he mentioned that you need to keep the "Store" switch in "Use" while trailering or else the batteries won't charge from the umbilical. True?

[gypsydad]

Made this update on other similar posts, so hope your not saturated...

1) My friends 2017 23D update- Interstate verified the new batteries they installed few months ago were fine. AS Fairfield guys detected bad Converter on his AS; they determined it was always on while on shore power, but not charging batteries. They replaced stock single stage converter with a new Progressive Dynamics PD4600 series multi-stage converter. Everything working well. Just out the cost of the new Converter. Working with AS to see about warranty refund to apply toward the PD4600...stay tuned.
2) Installed the battery disconnect knife switch in my unit. When I throw this to off position, now power to AS. No more guessing on whether the AS is drawing power in stor. Pictures below.

[PKI]

GD - you have asked for input on the knife switch solution. If it is rated for the maximum amp flow, it is a way to provide power and to remove that current flow to eliminate parasitic flow. Worth doing.

The problem I have with the knife is that it is an uncovered/uninsulated source of power. Most safety recomendations direct the insulation of battery power with covers. How the batteries or the cover would come adrift and allow the knife to short is difficult to forecast, but better isolation seems prudent.

The knife is a quick and easy solution to disconnect the power and eliminate parasitic loads. To improve the install, a layer of insulating tape or a thin plate of insulating material might be attached to the cover. Should be rather easy to add. Certainly other solutions could provide the same protection. A cover over the knife might also protect againt a short from dropping a tool.

The turn type switch isolates the power connection, but is more complex to install. Consequently, the decision may well depend on the individuals personal preferance, skills or budget. The multiple position turn type switch that allows none, one or both coach feeds to be connected seems the best option, given the installation ability or budget to pay for one.

Something that removes parasitic load should be practiced. If nothing else, remove the battery cables. Pat

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by PKI

GD - you have asked for input on the knife switch solution. If it is rated for the maximum amp flow, it is a way to provide power and to remove that current flow to eliminate parasitic flow. Worth doing.

The problem I have with the knife is that it is an uncovered/uninsulated source of power. Most safety recomendations direct the insulation of battery power with covers. How the batteries or the cover would come adrift and allow the knife to short is difficult to forecast, but better isolation seems prudent.

The knife is a quick and easy solution to disconnect the power and eliminate parasitic loads. To improve the install, a layer of insulating tape or a thin plate of insulating material might be attached to the cover. Should be rather easy to add. Certainly other solutions could provide the same protection. A cover over the knife might also protect againt a short from dropping a tool.

The turn type switch isolates the power connection, but is more complex to install. Consequently, the decision may well depend on the individuals personal preferance, skills or budget. The multiple position turn type switch that allows none, one or both coach feeds to be connected seems the best option, given the installation ability or budget to pay for one.

Something that removes parasitic load should be practiced. If nothing else, remove the battery cables. Pat

Multi position switch was also attractive option; as you mention, not straight forward to install for everyone...I used this type for several years on my 25'AS's, and no issues. Good suggestion on the insulating tape as a precaution...I have considered this also. There is plenty more clearance in this battery box then on older models to isolate better, if desired.

[Vantair]

Also concerned about any large metallic battery disconnect apparatice and learned of these simple low profile In the battery box “direct mounted turn style”. Rated up to 200amp constant load. Placed on negative but works on Pos. Quarter turn for on -off. Works great! $10.95 Amazon Prime.

2. No more drain from the AS when storing.

3. When in disconnect, can quick clip to external “extra smart” lightweight Potec 2,5,10 amp selectable rate charger /reconditioner without ratcheting disconnection of battery lugs.

4. Allows for easy accurate inline current measurment load tests figuring what’s killing the dang batts so fast boon docking !