Starting up trailer questions

[pompaneaux]

just bought a 31' airstream and don't know how to light the hot water heater, stove, and need info on how to hook up the city water and what to do with the 5 valves, and the A/C when plugged in gets really hot at the plug itself. The fridge comes on but does not get cold (electric fridge) need keys to the drinking water tank, and the generator. And need some help understanding the univolt fuses.In general I know nothing about this trailer and joined this forum to maybe get some help from all you knowledgable folks out there. Every lightbulb in the trailer works and the vent fan and the panel works as well. Just not getting as detailed info from the manual that I would like. Also need to know how to hook up the towing wires and electric jack and the water filter leaks and on and on. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Tripp

[thenewkid64]

Tripp,

I am sure we can all offer some info, but we need to get some more info from you first.

What year is your trailer, this makes a big diffrence in the key issue. What brand of hot water heater, the name should be on a plate inside the water heater door. I am not sure what you are talking about regarding the five valves, are they inside the trailer or outside.

With regard to city water there are diffrent locations to connect city water and diffrent types of connections again based on model year. There should be a plate that says city water connection near the female connection on the trailer. When you hook up to city water you should have pressure available at the tap without having to turn any valves.

The power cord getting hot with the AC on sounds like you may be using a 15 AMP converter on a 30 AMP cord. If you are plugging the cord into a standard wall outlet you are overloading the converter as it was not designed to carry the load created by the AC.

On the fridge, if it is a standard RV fridge it can take a few hours to cool down even runnning on electric. Your best test is to plug in the trailer, turn on the fridge on AC power, and leave it for a few hours or overnight. Check the freezer in the AM and the metal plate in the freezer should have frost on it.

Hope this helps, get the model year and we can help more!!

[davidz71]

pompaneaux,
Is your 30 amp electrical cord from the reel on your trailer connected to a 15 amp dogleg adapter and then to a 15 amp extension cord and then to a 15 amp household receptacle? If so, the A/C pulls too much current and the extension cord will get hot. The A/C is designed for a 30 amp elec. source and if run on 15 it is bad for the unit.

[pompaneaux]

Guys I really appreciate the help so far and both of you were right on the money about the A/C. Well here is the list of what I have in the trailer. Bowan water heater, Onan battery charger, Armstrong Air conditioner, Suburban Furnace, wall mounted oven is an Airstream Custom by Magic Chef. My questions are, how to light the water heater, furnace, how to check the battery charger or how to see if it works, the A/C only blows on high (maybe because of the way I had it plugged in?) How to light the oven, stove, once plugged into city water what valves stay open and what steps to take to use city water or to hook up to my house hose? I know this is alot of questions but I am totally new to this and I learn very fast. Thanks to all of you that have replied and thanks to everyone else in advance. You have no idea how much I appreciate this. Thanks, your friend Tripp
So far everything has worked very well. The referigerater is an electric Kennmore. And I have some questions about it as well. Sorry post is so long but I have a million questions.

[thenewkid64]

OK,

Lets start in the rear trunk. You have 1 or 2 "T" handle valves in here. One marked Aux holding tank and one marked main holding tank. The main tank is the black water(toilet) holding tank, the gray water if you have it is for the sink and shower waste water.

To empty these or hookup to sewer when camping you will need to hook a sewer hose with the proper twist fitting onto the large white connection on the side of the trailer, behind the bumper. Once connected, place the other end in the sewer fitting, or dump station. You will want to dump the main holding tank first. After the "Stuff" from the main holding tank drains, close the valve, then you want to drain the gray tank, this will flush out any klingons.

If I remember right there is a valve that will allow you to flush out the grey or black tank with city water, maybe someone else can fill in the blanks here. The other valves are for draining the system or bypassing the hot water heater, for winterizing. You should not need to mess with them.

On the battery charger, you said it was an Onan, is it a generator? The battery charger in your model trailer were called univolts and were usally under the bathtub. If you hear a hum when plugged in the univolt is working, maybe. The best way to check is to hook a digital meter up to the battery with the unit unplugged, check the voltage. Then plug in and check the voltage again. There should be an increase. With the univolts some have a switch that can tun them off, so look for an unlabled switch if you have no hum.

On the stove there is a pilot under the top, that lifts up, in the middle of the 4 burners. Some owners disable this and just directly light the burner they want with an ignigeter.

On the oven there is a pilot position on the temp control. Then you have to manually light the pilot inside the oven.

On the hot water heater there is a lever that you have to hold in the pilot position and light the pilot. Once lit you need to wait for the thermocouple to heat up and then you can move the lever into the on position.

On all three of these issues it is reccomended that you have someone who knows how to do this show you how to do it.

On the Kenmore refer, I think you are going to be on your own, best bet is to check the breaker box(looks like a regular home breaker panel) and be sure all of the breakers are on. There is a plug in the wall that could have simply fallen out??

One of the resources you can count on for help besides this wonderful forum is the WBBCI club. They are even offering a free year of membership. WWW.Wbcci.org is the site.

If you want to purchase copies of the original owners manuals there is a resource for these too.

Welcome to the club, hope your case of Aluminitus (the need to own and tinker with an Airstream)is controllable!

[83Excella]

Tripp,
To get a copy of an owners manual and service manual contact Helen Davis at Secretarial Services, PO Box 484, Sidney, OH 45365 (937) 492-8885.

John

[davidz71]

Tripp,
I was in the same boat last year when I purchased my Excella off ebay from a fella in AZ. He had a service manual but no owners manual. I ordered from Helen Davis as 83Excella noted and this helped fill in a few blanks. I found a dealer's service manual on ebay for $75 which was a little more extensive than the service manual provided. My A/C wasn't cooling so had a friend come over and found that it was a 14 volt transformer shot. I put it in myself and that Armstrong runs great. Sounds to me like you may have a bad switch if yours does not blow on FAN, LOW and MED but I will have to look at my service manual this weekend for the trouble shooting section for you.
You should have a grey electrical connector plugging into the front street side of the trailer. A 5 or so ft. cable runs from there to the front by the hitch. Does your female connector that plugs into the truck have round holes or does it connect to a 7 blade configuration? Mine was changed over and had a wiring diagram drawn in pencil in my service manual. Have you plugged in yet to see if tail lights work (brake, turn, clearance)?
On city water, you should have a built in pressure regulator but I put a brass regulator at the beginning of my water hose where you pull the hose out from the reel. I have heard stories where plumbing leaked due to high pressures or a faulty regulator inside the unit. Check for leaks after connecting. I developed one at an L joint which was in a low spot. Apparently water settled there, froze in the AZ. mountains during a cold spell just before I picked the trailer up. This is why you should blow your lines out for winter and then run 6-8 gallons of RV anti-freeze throughout your system, something you won't have to worry about for awhile.
I have 2 copper drain valves in the rear trunk. If both are not closed when you connect to city water, you will hear them draining out so be on the lookout for that.
If you have mud dobbers in your area, buy one of the screens that can be put over the suburban exhaust on the outside to keep them out. I had them get in and built nests in the combustion chamber and on the blower wheel which caused an imbalance. I eventually had to have the unit rebuilt when the circuit board went out. A friend had them get in and totally lock up his blower wheel.
Brett is on the money on his post. If you get ahold of both an owners manual and service manual for your year trailer then the picture will become clearer. The rest can be filled in from members of this and other forums. Keep in touch and let us know how things are going. We have been there and done that. If it weren't for other Airstream owners helping me then I would have been in a pickle.

[pompaneaux]

Thanks you guys, ya'll are awsome for helping me. I will get the service manual as I already have the owners manual. I just don't know enough about plumbing or electrical or lpg stuff to make total sense about all of it. Thanks again, and I will be specific with future questions. I appreciate it. Thanks, Tripp

[tenrsingr]

I may have an answer for your refer problem, but I am unsure if you said what type it is? Is it an absortion unit? Dometic is the type I have that uses both electrical and LP. I have not been able to get mine to cool at all. Well, as of late, with the restoration of all the gone bad things... I replaced the balance bubble on the front of my TT. Lo and behold... I used a level in the frezer compartment of my refer. Guess what guys... with the heat here is south georgia... my unit was cooling by itself... it wasnt cold by no means, but it definetly made a difference. With the refer leveled out, the absorbtion unit took off without a hitch... This may be your only problem, that is if you have this type of unit.
Now with the AC unit... I have a switch that is mounted on the ceiling in the kitchen area that switches from low to high speed.
And by all means.. if you are running your AC unit, make sure that you are not using an 30/15 Amp adapter with an extension cord or you may end up purchasing a new AC condensor unit. I measured my AC while hooked up like that and noticed a low voltage situation. (why is it that us electricians always do things like that, but I stopped doing it)

One other thing... did you mention what type of TT and year you have?
And welcome to the group.... There is a vast amount of knowledge here... Just ask the question and someone will be able to guide you to higher knowledge...

[tenrsingr]

I see... You have the 31' Landyacht made in 1973. with the L-couch... Seems as if it sounds familiar.. Mine in '72 31' rear bath twin center. my refer is still the original dometic. It seems as if yours had been replaced with a updated refer? I like the one I have, you can keep the refer going while traveling by using the gas option. The switch for the AC is in the ceiling of the kitchen and it was just a toggle switch that seemed to have been installed seperately??? not really sure, but the service manual for my Armstong unit had the electrical drawings red lined with the switch added... I can only guess at the reason yours is in High speed. As far as any other questions... my water heater was changed to an electric only by previous owner and the Suburban unit for heating the trailer was removed also, but here in the south.... It doesnt get cold enough.. so I will not worry with it at the present.. cause the catalytic works just fine for nippy nights on the mountain...

[thenewkid64]

In your quest for manuals you may want to look at the link in this post

http://www.airforums.com/forum...s=&threadid=98

They have most of the manuals, service and operator, for the standard RV applianaces and you can print them out. I just used the dometic one to troubleshoot and repair the refer in my motorhome. The two parts cost $89.00 but now my refer will work on LP as it should, not just on electric. I figure I saved myself at least $65.00-100.00 by doing it myself. And the more you know the less likley you are to be cheated by a repair shop.

[tenrsingr]

I was just going through some information on my TT today. I can't believe that I still have a cookbook for the magic chef oven. I also found a service book for a Toshiba microwave. In the 72 sov. was that a standard item? goes to show you how far ahead these babies were... BTW I went shopping for some material to reupholster my cushions in my L-Couch and found a bargain. This material that was supposed to sell at $18 / Yd I got an unbelievable price of 50 cents / yd instead. Well if you can stand the pattern, which if you ask me looks like what they use in some TT now, youd be very satisfied. Right now I seem to be fighting rust in the kitchen... the refer and the stove....

[Inland RV Center, In]

Brett. ALLrepair shops don't cheat, as you suggested. How about the few owners that call on an 800 number to find out how to repair or install something, on the premise of buying something but don't? Trust is a two way street, as well as cheating.
If a dealer provides a requested service, he is entitled to be reasonably paid for it, provided that it is a correct and proper repair.
If a owner requests instructions on "How to" and buys that part, that's fair. When he wants free schooling, that takes someones time at a dealership, which costs him money. How does he recoupe?
There are two sides to being fair. Andy

[thenewkid64]

Andy,

My statement regarding being cheated by a repair shop was not intended to paint all repair centers with the same brush. I have had experiences where I have been told that my "fill in the blank" was not fixable and I just need to replace it for 500-1000 dollars. Upon further research it was a $100 part that would have fixed it and the unit would have bee usable for many years.

Based on my own experiences with you, I know that I will get a fair recommendation or you may tell me that YOU would not recommend doing the repair and just replace it. I trust YOUR opinion. But when you have no experience with a travel trailer and what it takes to fix one, the RV shops I went to when I was a new owner at times it was like I was fresh meat. Being an Airstream owner all they saw was dollar signs. I agree that you should pay for a fair and reasonable repair.

My best advice is to get all of the information you can so you are able to make an informed decision when it comes to spending money to repair or replace items on your RV. Thereby maximizing your dollars and being sure to get value. Value does not mean always paying the least amount of money. It means getting what you need/want at a fair price with the service/support you need or expect. Those that take advantage of people with knowledge while trying to save a buck are the ones that make it hard for those with knowledge to give freely, so we all lose.

We live in a capitalistic society, we all need to make a buck, I do not resent someone who is successful when they are a fair and honest business owner, it's the unscrupulous ones that really tick me off. And I will agree that there are RV owners that fall on both sides of this issue too.

So Andy, if I have offended you I apologize. Thanks for all you help and all the parts I have ordered have been great.

[davidz71]

Tripp,
Even if you were hooked to 15 amp household current, your fan should have run on FAN, LOW, MED and HIGH until the cord got hot enough to shut off the breaker or ruin an internal part. My service manual suggests that you check for loose wires in the AC junction box inside the trailer. Drop the plastic cover of the A/C grill by removing the 4 screws visible on the bottom. The rectangular control box, now exposed, can be removed by removing a screw at either end. You can now pull the control box down for inspection of the wiring connections by removing the end plate from the control box. It could be that the wires have become disconnected or the switch has shorted out on those speeds. The BROWN wire goes to the cooling relay, BLACK to fan HIGH, BLUE to MED and RED to LOW speed. The manual says to remove wires from switch and check continuity by using an ohm meter ie. Off------All contacts open
HIGH---L1-1 and 2
MED----L1-1 and 3
LOW----L1-1 and 4

L1 is power, 1 is BROWM, 2 is BLACK, 3 is BLUE and 4 is RED.

Hope this helps. Don't electrocute yourself. Craig

[Inland RV Center, In]

Brett. I did not feel offended by what you said, but merely became defensive for at least a few good shops.
I have always believed that an informed Airstream owner, is a smart owner. Who knows how many seminars, bull sessions at rallys, and writings that I have been involved with. Hundreds, I am sure, all in an effort to educate.
Establishing a rapport with an Airstream owner is desireable, but not always achievable. Fortunately, most owners express what they need in service, expect a short reasonable explanation of what is involved, and at least a rough estimate of labor and the materials that may be needed.
Many years ago, the vast majority of Airstream owners said, "don't bother with the details, just fix it." Over time, that has changed. Most owners are no longer intimidated with the product, so they attempt the repairs themselves. I personally think that's great, and I don't mind expending some of our time and resources to assist. But there are times, that I am sure you can appreciate, that you have to draw the line. Enough becomes enough, especially when you offer an 800 number, as we do.I receive at least one call a week, from someone who has bought a used Airstream from some individual, who asks to be taught what everything is on, or in the coach, and how do they work it.
Suggesting that they get an owners manual and service manual, seldom appeases that person. They want to know NOW!!!!
Your a dealer, it's your responsibility to teach me!! Hello, where in the world does it say that?
Unfortunately, the image of the typical Airstream owner has been tarnished over the years, by the select few. It is those that are a problem for all of us. They are not happy with the product, or the Airstream factory. They are not happy with any dealer, who would dare charge them for any repair, or even suggest that they may need an appointment for service. They are not happy with any labor charge, and even go so far as saying, "you mean you have to make a profit on parts?" They are not happy with the WBCCI or Vintage clubs, they don't like the way rallies are run, and object to rally fees. If they go on a caravan, they don't like their assigned number, and insist on passing everyone, so that they can be "first", not having in mind how many lives they have endangered with that kind of antics.
However, thanks to folks like you, we all keep our heads level, work together, and enjoy the business relationship and fellowship, that comes with "Airstreaming." Andy

[eraffety]

Andy-

With all due respect, perhaps there is a reason why people are not happy with the WBCCI and the way the rallies are run (see the thread "Next Motorhome Rally(s)" in The Rally Zone section).

There ARE two sides to every issue and we all need to just take things in perspective. Unfortunately, unlike the consumer, the repair shop owner has limited recourse when he encounters a bad customer. There is no "better business bureau" to complain to or to take action. Picketing a person's house won't do any good. (I, for one, have picketed a repair shop!) So, I do feel for your situation.

I just wanted to say, though, that I'm sure I speak for A LOT of people when we say "THANK YOU" for all the advice you have given. I do respect your knowledge and the generosity you have shown this forum and others.

-Emily

[pompaneaux]

Andy, I was one of the folks that called you last week, because I had just bought an old airstream and had no idea of what some things were and were they were and how to turn them on. I'm sorry if you felt like I wanted to know everything now and if I somehow made you feel like I was unappeased. I was'nt. I understood that you run a business and phone repair advice is taking your time from running a real business. I called because someone posted your name and number and said that you were a wonderful person to ask such questions and that if anyone could help it was you. You did answer many of my questions and I understood why you did not want to give me a 3 hour lecture on how airstreams work. That is why I have posted on this website in order to get some help from airstreamers. Thanks to all of you who have helped in this repair section of this website. And to Andy I'm sorry for creating a thread on this website that has indeed caused you even more grief. I did not mean to, just wanted to ask some questions and maybe get some input from those willing to give some. My fault, sorry again, Tripp
Woodville, Mississippi, and again thanks so mush to all of you above who have helped.

[Jim Clark]

I have been reading the various Airstream sites for about 6 months now and I must say that the two names I see most are Hunter and Andy. I must say that both of the people have done a lot to promote Airstream.

I have learned a great deal from what Andy has to say, he is helpful and I am glad that he dose answer questions. I am also very happy that he has a stock of hard to get parts. It is my choice to buy or not to buy from him but when you need a part you need it. I posted a question about a awning on the VAC parts wanted list and someone from INLAND called me to try and sell me a awning, I picked his brain and decided that I would wait. Some may consider that aggressive marketing I think it was good marketing. I am glad Andy is willing to risk his money and time to be in the Airstream Business and the bonus of him sharing his knowledge is icing on the cake. I see it as Win Win.

[davidz71]

Tripp,
We are all here to help you. Believe me, the service manual will help you understand why you do things in the owners manual. There will be areas that you do not understand and forums like this will help you. I understand Andy's point of view on the 800 line but in my case he told me to call and then I bought parts to get my trailer on the road. I was lost at that point but was quickly informed. I'm sure there will be other times I will talk with Inland RV and continue buying parts from them as well as other dealers. Don't stop asking the questions because there are plenty of knowledgable individuals on the board. Craig