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Old 10-30-2019, 08:39 PM   #21
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http://www.renogy.com/?afmc=AirstreamNutsandBolts
Renogy makes a Slim 100 watt Panel
On you 27GT you should be fine with the Eclipse panels mentioned previously. That’s what I used.

Discount code AirstreamNutsandBolts will save you 5%
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Old 10-30-2019, 08:46 PM   #22
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Getting 25 GT twin so should work, thanks
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Old 10-30-2019, 09:13 PM   #23
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Getting 25 GT twin so should work, thanks
I know that discount code is not much but it will help some
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Old 12-12-2019, 10:08 PM   #24
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Been scouring the forums for this answer, but wondering if anyone had advice on how to wire the zamp port (which we have to install on our 2010 Flying Cloud 27FB Twin) to the stock battery box on the A-frame.

Hole location, wire running route, etc.

Thanks in advance for any help y'all might be able to lend!
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Old 12-12-2019, 10:16 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaulinOats View Post
Been scouring the forums for this answer, but wondering if anyone had advice on how to wire the zamp port (which we have to install on our 2010 Flying Cloud 27FB Twin) to the stock battery box on the A-frame.

Hole location, wire running route, etc.

Thanks in advance for any help y'all might be able to lend!
Under the trailer where the spare tire is mounted is the location that the 7 pin wire and battery cables enter the trailer. Hang on.....

Do you have rooftop solar?

Are your batteries in the front battery box or located elsewhere?
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Old 12-12-2019, 10:33 PM   #26
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Thanks for the reply!

I am pretty familiar with how our wiring works at the battery (I have already installed a Victron BMV-712 monitor as well as a Zamp sidewall port next to the front storage), but haven't had to run any wires down from the top.

We don't have any solar on top nor any factory Zamp outlets due to the fact that our trailer is a 2010. I'm willing to take a stab at this thing, but my main anxiety is punching a hole in the roof in the right place and running the wiring up to the A-frame battery box(where our batteries reside) in a semi-intelligent manner.

Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by GMFL View Post
Under the trailer where the spare tire is mounted is the location that the 7 pin wire and battery cables enter the trailer. Hang on.....

Do you have rooftop solar?

Are your batteries in the front battery box or located elsewhere?
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Old 12-13-2019, 07:18 PM   #27
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Apollo Beach , Florida
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You can connect your solar controller output to the positive and negative busbars inside the Airstream instead of running the wire all the way to the battery on the tongue. This is what I did and how Airstream connects their stock solar charging. I think by connecting to the busbars, you can hide all the wires behind existing cabinets on a 27' twin. Some run the wires down next to a sewer vent pipe, others drop it down the refrigerator roof vent. See page 8-35 in this Airstream owner's manual https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...manual-150.pdf The diagram says 12ga wire, but I used 6ga. There's up to 45A going over those wires with 600W and 30A with 400W so therefore 6ga works for the couple feet of distance. If you're running new wire from the roof to the solar controller, I'd use 4ga the entire distance from the roof to the busbars.
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Old 12-13-2019, 09:06 PM   #28
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Wow... that would certainly make things easier.
I can't read these schematics worth a damn, but hopefully I'll be able to wrap my brain around this and not cause any damage to the rig!

Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by AirMiles View Post
You can connect your solar controller output to the positive and negative busbars inside the Airstream instead of running the wire all the way to the battery on the tongue. This is what I did and how Airstream connects their stock solar charging. I think by connecting to the busbars, you can hide all the wires behind existing cabinets on a 27' twin. Some run the wires down next to a sewer vent pipe, others drop it down the refrigerator roof vent. See page 8-35 in this Airstream owner's manual https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...manual-150.pdf The diagram says 12ga wire, but I used 6ga. There's up to 45A going over those wires with 600W and 30A with 400W so therefore 6ga works for the couple feet of distance. If you're running new wire from the roof to the solar controller, I'd use 4ga the entire distance from the roof to the busbars.
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Old 12-14-2019, 01:12 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaulinOats View Post
Thanks for the reply!

I am pretty familiar with how our wiring works at the battery (I have already installed a Victron BMV-712 monitor as well as a Zamp sidewall port next to the front storage), but haven't had to run any wires down from the top.

We don't have any solar on top nor any factory Zamp outlets due to the fact that our trailer is a 2010. I'm willing to take a stab at this thing, but my main anxiety is punching a hole in the roof in the right place and running the wiring up to the A-frame battery box(where our batteries reside) in a semi-intelligent manner.

Thanks!
On our FC25 there are narrow 45 degree panels in the bathroom on either side of the door. One hides the vent pipe. I used that as a way to get to the roof with the 6ga wire from the roof. I ran it into a AM Solar junction box on the roof with lots of Silkaflex 221 to seal it. Not sure if your 27 has the same thing.
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Old 12-14-2019, 11:30 PM   #30
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Oooooh!
That's a good idea.

I also found a electric line running from the roof through the street side bedroom cabinet (above the foot of the street side twin bed) for the thermostat and our WiFi extender.

The wires then run across the trailer and up to the front where the batteries are located.

That said, I really like the idea of using the bathroom vent line, as that is on the same side as the battery and wiring terminal located under the head of the curbside bed.

Did you pop the 45º bathroom panel off in order to run the line, or did you fish it down? Did you need fishing tape?


Quote:
Originally Posted by daleyocum View Post
On our FC25 there are narrow 45 degree panels in the bathroom on either side of the door. One hides the vent pipe. I used that as a way to get to the roof with the 6ga wire from the roof. I ran it into a AM Solar junction box on the roof with lots of Silkaflex 221 to seal it. Not sure if your 27 has the same thing.
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Old 12-15-2019, 12:41 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaulinOats View Post
Oooooh!
That's a good idea.

I also found a electric line running from the roof through the street side bedroom cabinet (above the foot of the street side twin bed) for the thermostat and our WiFi extender.

The wires then run across the trailer and up to the front where the batteries are located.

That said, I really like the idea of using the bathroom vent line, as that is on the same side as the battery and wiring terminal located under the head of the curbside bed.

Did you pop the 45º bathroom panel off in order to run the line, or did you fish it down? Did you need fishing tape?
On my trailer the 45 degree panel next to the toilet is only held on the 3-4 screws. Just pop it off and zip tie your wire to the vent pipe. No fishing tape required.

By the way, I used the chase on the other side, that's empty, as a place to mount the BMV-712 battery monitor so it's visible in the hall.
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Old 12-24-2019, 12:15 AM   #32
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Excellent!
Thanks so much!

I'll try to get a few photos of the install.
As it stands right now, I'm leaning towards using the vent line in the bathroom per your suggestion.
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Old 12-25-2019, 06:14 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by HaulinOats View Post
Excellent!
Thanks so much!

I'll try to get a few photos of the install.
As it stands right now, I'm leaning towards using the vent line in the bathroom per your suggestion.
On my FC25 I went up the black vent pipe in that triangular cavity by the toilet. On mine the vent pipe does a couple of turns once inside the ceiling before it emerges (circled in yellow.) I just ran my 6ga wire straight up parallel with the vertical vent pipe and emerged straight into a combiner box (circled in red.). That way the hole in the roof is covered by a well Silkaflexed AM Solar combiner box.
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