SmartPlug

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by rewillia

Are the 50-amp pre-assembled cord sets available from, used and supplied by Smart Plug lighter in terms of their carrying weight and hence, easier to manage than those OEM provided gray beast that Airstream supplies for it's 50-amp units?

ANY 50 amp cable is lighter than the gray beast that came with my trailer. I changed to the "Mighty Cord" after the first trip.

[Stargirl]

Originally Posted by wilsodf

We installed 2 SmartPlug over a year ago. I ordered direct from them and I also installed the matching TV/Sat Plug.

Super easy to install and they work great.

Hi! I'm looking into this product for my Airstream (full gut job) and I'm curious why I would ever need two? Is there ever a scenario in which I need 50 and 30 amp connections? Thanks for the help!

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Stargirl

Hi! I'm looking into this product for my Airstream (full gut job) and I'm curious why I would ever need two? Is there ever a scenario in which I need 50 and 30 amp connections? Thanks for the help!

People install two with a automatic transfer switch between them. One on the side for camp ground hook up and one on the front for Generator hook-up with out having to remove the generator from the truck bed.

[rmkrum]

Like this: I used the same type port on streetside rear at the original utility hookup area. This is my front end generator port to make it easy to connect the Champion genset that rides in my truck bed.



I use a 30 amp Blue Sea Systems manual transfer switch.

[primepower]

I just use the same cable and an adapter. However my situation my be different because I have a Yamaha generator with a 30 amp RV receptacle so I only need the normal 30-50 amp adapter.

[Reno Classic]

Originally Posted by GMFL

People install two with a automatic transfer switch between them. One on the side for camp ground hook up and one on the front for Generator hook-up with out having to remove the generator from the truck bed.

GMFL & rmkrum, I'd like to do the same - install one to replace the original and add an additional outlet for the generator in front. Can you describe or furnish a drawing how to wire up the front receptacle? At this point I'm undecided if I would use a manual or automatic transfer switch but the project is definitely on my to-do list for this year.

[rmkrum]

I have a 2007 22’ International CCD with a wet bath and front bed setup.

Front receptacle is wired to a length of 10-2 with ground romex run in 3/4” blue flex conduit (smurf tube) from under the front bed, below the cabinets to the rear wall in the kitchen. I installed the transfer switch there. All the wires from rear receptacle and panel come together there. It was a pain to get all the wires to the switch location and I had to use a UF cable underground splice kit to safely extend the wire to the panel.

I used the schematic for the 30 amp manual BlueSeaSystems transfer switch to wire it up. The receptacle comes with directions as well. Took a couple days of pulling wire and cussing.

[Stargirl]

Wow thanks everyone for the quick responses! Makes lots of sense (I'm new to electrical if you can't tell).

Has anyone here also installed these SmartPlug devices to monitor ELCI? Any feedback? Are they worth the cost?

[rmkrum]

Not using the extra devices. Probably intended only for boats.

To clarify, my Airstream is 30 amp 120 volt only. Both my power input receptacles are for 30 amp. My manual transfer switch selects which one I am using.

I have a surge protector/EMS that performs the same protection functions permanently installed in my rig next to the power panel (located under my rear dinette seat curbside). That monitors power coming from either inlet and won’t turn on if it’s not safe and properly connected. This does mean I need a ground/neutral bonding plug on my generator so the EMS will be happy. Common item that is easily made or cheap to buy.

[Reno Classic]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

....run in 3/4” blue flex conduit (smurf tube) from under the front bed, below the cabinets to the rear wall in the kitchen.... Took a couple days of pulling wire and cussing.

Well, you're not going to make it easy for me are you? With all my electronics up front and the panel located on the back wall I can see the real challenge is getting from point A to point B with the #10 Romex run. Thanks for your help, at least I can see what needs to be done and the finer details will fill in the blanks as my plan comes together. Thank you

[rmkrum]

It’s going to be different on different versions and ages of Airstreams. I had to disassemble al the kitchen cabinets and drill s couple holes in the base of my wardrobe to get the Smurf Tube in place. You will have to research and determine the best path for the wires by digging around in your particular unit.

The hardest wiring job we did was the cables from the ham radio main unit under the kitchen and shower to the control head on the desk. Took two days of fussing snd cussing by my son and me to get that done right!

[rewillia]

Anyone with the 50A Smart Plug install/set-up know what I need for storage 120v AC 20-amp power?

I've ordered the 50A Smart Plug Combo and their 50A cord but am uncertain what I need for when I'm storing my Airstream and typically connect it to a 120v AC power source in my storage building.

At present, I'm using a 50A to 120vAC adapter but realize that once i install the new Smart Plug, the pigtail won't work anymore and I'll need some form of adapter or a different Smart Plug with small gauge wire to install a 120v Ac plug onto and connect to a 120v AC. receptacle in my storage unit (for battery maintenance).

[Hans627]

Originally Posted by rewillia

Anyone with the 50A Smart Plug install/set-up know what I need for storage 120v AC 20-amp power?

I've ordered the 50A Smart Plug Combo and their 50A cord but am uncertain what I need for when I'm storing my Airstream and typically connect it to a 120v AC power source in my storage building.

At present, I'm using a 50A to 120vAC adapter but realize that once i install the new Smart Plug, the pigtail won't work anymore and I'll need some form of adapter or a different Smart Plug with small gauge wire to install a 120v Ac plug onto and connect to a 120v AC. receptacle in my storage unit (for battery maintenance).


Attachment 394020

I know this is an older thread but am curious if someone makes an 110v adapter for the 50a smart plug?

Thanks!

[primepower]

Even though it is the Smart plug on the end that connects to the camper it is the normal 50 amp connection that connects to the pedestal. Therefore I would just get an adapter for that as it will be much easier to find.

[rewillia]

Originally Posted by primepower

Even though it is the Smart plug on the end that connects to the camper it is the normal 50 amp connection that connects to the pedestal. Therefore I would just get an adapter for that as it will be much easier to find.

Yeah but then I'm lugging about that 50A shore power cable for really nothing. The current set up using the 50A Furrion to 110/120c AC is simple enough, just plug into a regular light weight extension cord.

I'm thinking I need to purchase another Smart Plug but they show then in 16, 32, 30, and 50 Amp and hence, I don't know which one to purchase if only connecting the 110/120v AC cord end of the adapter I'm using now.

[rewillia]

Found what I needed which is the SmartPlug C50044L515P 50-Amp Female to 15-amp Male x 4 ft. adapter. Pricey but it is what I need. Since ordered from e-Trailer.

[AirstreamJim]

Methinks you wasted your money.

The SmartPlug cord set, whether 30 amp or 50 amp, is only different from a regular RV shore power cord set on the end that plugs into the trailer. The end that plugs into the campsite pedestal is the same as any other. Therefore, a cheap 50 amp to 15 amp RV adapter like this one for $17.95 on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-50Fem...s%2C191&sr=8-5

works equally as well. Just plug your SmartPlug cord into the adapter, and plug the adapter into the standard 15 amp wall socket. I have one of these and it works perfectly fine, and it cost me the $17.95, not the $206 that you just handed over to the etrailer.com highway robbers.

EDIT: Never mind, I re-read your post and realize now you don’t want to use your SmartPlug cordset. If it’s worth $200 to you to not use your regular cordset, then you’re good to go. For anyone else reading this thread later, though, I’ll leave this here so people don’t think the only solution costs $200.

Jim

[rewillia]

Originally Posted by AirstreamJim

Methinks you wasted your money: Never mind, I re-read your post and realize now you don’t want to use your SmartPlug cordset. If it’s worth $200 to you to not use your regular cordset, then you’re good to go. For anyone else reading this thread later, though, I’ll leave this here so people don’t think the only solution costs $200., Jim

Jim, I don't disagree there were other and far cheaper workarounds but my enclosed storage space is tight and I use every bit of it with the assortment of camping gear we tote along with us., i.e. dual Honda generators, folding lawn chairs, tables, as well as the power cord, surge protector, hoses, chocks, etc, etc.

So, by the time I've backed my trailer into the unit and unloaded all these cargoes from the bed of my TV, the last thing I want to deal with is having to pull that beast of a 50A x 30ft. cable back out, run it underneath my trailer to the opposite side (where the 110v AC outlet is located) and the adapt up solely for 110vAC for battery maintenance while in storage hence the $ 206 not to have to all of that was worth it to me. Plus, I can just leave it in place (disconnected) when I pull the trailer out and find it there waiting to connect when I return. In all, overtime I suspect I'll forget about having spent the money on it, i.e. will pay for itself.

SmartPlug does offer just the connector (for $85+tax) of which I could have most likely cut my existing twist-lok 50A F adapter connector off of and replaced it with but this way, I am certain of a proper connection but the choice not to was one I made.

I also agree for some, others, if not most this is overkill and there are most certainly cheaper alternatives as you point out to. It's just a shame Smart Plug does not make a 50a F-15a M short adapter as so commonly used like the twist-lock version I have been using.

Thanks for the input.

[Tater]

Isn't this what you want?https://smartplug.com/wp-content/upl...50044L515P.jpg

It's a 50 amp smartplug with 15 amp pigtail.

I found this on Smartplug web site. Not.sutr which dealer has them.

Good luck,
Jim

[AirstreamJim]

Originally Posted by Tater

Isn't this what you want?https://smartplug.com/wp-content/upl...50044L515P.jpg

It's a 50 amp smartplug with 15 amp pigtail.

I found this on Smartplug web site. Not.sutr which dealer has them.

Good luck,
Jim

That’s what rewillia purchased.

Jim