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Old 11-20-2009, 01:46 PM   #21
Rivet Master
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1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
St. Paul , Minnesota
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Running the old-style univolt without a battery is the surest way of getting a new converter - they require the battery as a ballast load and will get increasingly louder with 60Hz buzzing over hours/days... when the buzzing stops you will need new converter.
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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Old 11-20-2009, 04:42 PM   #22
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2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
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Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
Depending on your usage, if you are using a mim. amount of current, it may not hurt the converter but it will hurt your lights. The life expectancy of a light bulb is a function of the voltage applied. The converter will put out more than 13.5 volts and that voltage is enough to kill your lights.

I guess maybe as 2Air points out, it may depend on what setup you have, and that may be a confusing factor in many of us contributing to this thread.

According to my manual, my converter can put out something like 55 amps - more than any load I would impose. The manual also appears to confirm this by indicating that it can power all of the trailers 12v electrical needs.

I have a digital voltmeter installed in my trailer, and when the converter is on, the voltage reads at east 13.5 volts, whether or not the coach batteries are connected.

So in my case, if that voltage is sufficient to significantly shorten bulb life, I guess I'm stuck with that!

I don't seem to have a problem with too frequent bulb replacement though, although the trailer is pretty new to us - only two trips so far!

I'm in the process of converting all the interior lights that we use often to LED. So far, the reading lights at each end of the trailer, and the chandelier over the dinette. I wonder if the voltage will be detrimental to these?

Brian & Connie Mitchell

2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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Old 11-20-2009, 06:59 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
... I wonder if the voltage will be detrimental to these?.
check the voltage AT the fixture or bulb.

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 11-21-2009, 06:34 PM   #24
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I'm starting the third year with a pair of Interstates that stay in the trailer year round. I periodically plug the trailer in for a week or so to maintain the charge and, so far, I can't complain about the Interstates. That's with minus 15 degee nights and as long as a month with below freezing temperatures. For the cost, I'm perfectly content to get a solid two years - and possibly three - out of a set of batteries. I could pay twice as much but I'm not sure so doing would be cost-effective. In my cars and trucks I normally get a good 5 years out of Interstates.

2003 GMC 3500 D/A, CC, LB, 4x4 and 2000 Airstream Excella 30. WBCCI 7074
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