Running Wire from front to very back?

[cru-in]

Good Morning Team,

I need (well "want") to run two #12 and two #16 pairs of wire from the front of the trailer to the rear (for power stabilizers and underbelly lighting to facilitate night time setup). So this would be a long wire run along the underbelly. About 20 feet.

On past trailers (big white box ones), I have simply run wire in a flexible conduit and fastened the conduit to the exposed underbelly frame.

I would appreciate your thoughts on how to do this on an Airstream.

Thanks
Dan
Classic 30

[GMFL]

I have always tried to hide wires as best I can. (I kinda a wire management Nazi). Anyway.
Option #1 would be to chase them inside the rig under the cabinets shower ect...
If that’s not and option due to bed layout or something else. Then
Option #2 is to drop part of the bellypan and run them inside there.

[batman]

Dan, I would do as GMFL has suggested. If you can't run it inside the coach then drop some of the belly pan and run it in flex conduit and attach to the frame rails. It is possible to run the flex on the outside of the belly pan next to the propane lines. BUT, if you ever want/have to remove the belly pan later it could be more difficult.

-Dennis

[lsbrodsky]

Alternatively, there is already stuff under there like propane piping and so on. When I ran some wires underneath, I put them in a small cable sheath and zip tied that up to existing attachments. It gave me no trouble for the years I had it there(is was for a Garmin license plate camera).

Larry

[loft47]

Don’t put the power stabilizers on the rig. They are slow and expensive. Buy an impact wrench to put the manual stabilizers up & down.

If you start the light wiring in front you don’t need wiring in back do you?

[featherbedder]

IMO never use impact wrench on stabilizers as can exert to much down force causing damage. Use cordless 3/8 drill to lower stabilizers, if hard to lower lube them.

[bibbs]

Order some marine of trailer wire (2, 2 strand, or one 4 strand) in a jacket, then simply zip-tie it to the propane lines. Easy peasy

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by featherbedder

IMO never use impact wrench on stabilizers as can exert to much down force causing damage. Use cordless 3/8 drill to lower stabilizers, if hard to lower lube them.

This is what I do. Impact driver can also be a bit to noisy for early morning departures.

For wires for lights I would run them from compartment lights.

[guskmg]

When I had my solar, Lithium and inverter system installed we ran wires every where, but none are now visble. There are all sorts of open areas down the frame, through the crossmembers and in the frame. Also behind kick panels, under, in and behind cabinets. If you use the roof refer vent to bring wires inside and down to the frame you can hide a lot of wires. We added solar and inverter controller pigtails, cel booster, refer fan x 2 and emergency battery disconnect.
guskmg

[nickcrowhurst]

On my Excella 25 the side frame members are box sections open at the rear end. They are clear of obstruction throughout the length of the trailer. I used some long thin bamboos taped together to pass a remote spray head and hose from the rear and coat the inside of the box section with anti-rust liquid from a compressor. I designed a tiny trolley to carry the nozzle in the center of the box section.You may be able to adapt this method to pass a wire most of the way. If the first part of the probe is flexible you may get it to emerge at the front if the box section bends, perhaps via the hole for the wiring for the electric jack on the A-frame.
Nick.

[moosetags]

I have used flexible conduit to rum wires to the back of the Airstream. It is quick, easy, and efficient. I just zip tie the conduit to whatever is available along the desired route.

I am not a big fan of powered stabilizers. Adding another system to malfunction is not my thing. I use a DeWalt 12 volt drill/driver to raise and lower Lucy's stabilizers. I also carry a DeWalt impact driver. It is not a good idea to use this tool on your stabilizers as it will disrupt the peace and quiet of the entire campground.

Brian

[cbburke]

You haven't mentioned which power stabilizers you are looking at. Home Depot carries the same unit Airstream uses. I mean exact same, switches and all.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lippert-...8707/307896684
About half what my dealer quoted. Because it was a replacement changing it out was rather simple. Four bolts, two wires you're done.

[Mikebrady62]

[QUOTE=cbburke;2363292]You haven't mentioned which power stabilizers you are looking at. Home Depot carries the same unit Airstream uses. I mean exact same, switches and all.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lippert-...8707/307896684
About half what my dealer quoted. Because it was a replacement changing it out was rather simple. Four bolts, two wires you're done.[/QUOTE

Thank you for the link! This will be a great addition to our AS. I almost purchased a GT because of this feature but liked the Serenity interior better.

[pontzdav]

My dewalt cordless drill with torque set to 11 gives a perfect stabilizer deployment every time.

[coolbabe]

I used and extension cord. It is made to protect the wires from the elements and is less expensive than buying the wires. Just make sure the gauge of the extension cord is the right one for the load.

[SlvrTwinkie]

Holy cow Batman, through HD you can two for about half the price of one at the RV Supply websites. When it comes time to replace our stabilizers I will order them through HD. But as for running the wiring, I have to agree if you can run them inside for the main run, that is a way to go. But than again if you decide to run under the trailer, attaching them to something already there will work too. I would see about maybe running a 7 or 8 wire cable. like umbilical cord, that way if you decide to add more lights or add other things that need 12v power you will have the extra wire there already to be able to put new additions on their own circuits. But that's me prep ahead of time when possible.