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Old 03-02-2018, 03:25 PM   #1
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Roof Hole for combiner box

I am preparing to cut my hole to run my 4/2 Duplex from the roof to my controller location and was hoping to get feedback on any issues or does it look good to go? It's a 2016 International Serenity 25' Front Bed. I have decided to run it thought the closet, straight down to the Water Heater area and straight over to the rest of my stuff under the bed.

This will locate my combiner box directly under one of my front panels further out of the elements. I might even be able to wire it directly in.

Only issue is I am not sure of is how wide the ribs of the Airstream are. IF there are wires or air vents there. I was going to cut right behind the closet door frame below the seams and between a vertical and horizontal set of rivets. The bathroom fan straddles the same seam on the roof I think.
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Old 03-02-2018, 03:32 PM   #2
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Howdy,

I always place the converter box directly above the closet (with one drilled hole) and run the 4/2 right down the wall, along the back of the cabinet and down behind the drawers to the water heater. From there, I usually run the 4/2 along the bed frame and into the center of the coach, where I usually place the batteries and all of the solar components.

I would drill up from the inside of your closet. It works for me..................
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Old 03-02-2018, 04:46 PM   #3
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Take a look at The More We Explore’s video of the install on his 23. He runs a short piece of conduit from the combiner box to the ceiling to act as protection from the sharp aluminum. I thought this was a great idea. On my last install I fumbled with rubber grommets. Got them in but his conduit method looks way easier. I’m doing another install when it warms up. Already have all the internal electronics in and my wire sitting in the closet. Let us know how it goes and if you find other ideas you like. I may steal a few!
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Old 03-02-2018, 07:12 PM   #4
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Thanks all. As I looked at things this has always been the obvious choice. I looked at going out the vent pipe in the bath but I just need to buck up and punch the hole. I have it pulled into the closet from under the bed. I am going to pull the shelf and cut some more of the corner offer so it will pull through the small gap in the back.

I was going to just use the caulk tape but I'll check out the conduit piece also.

Thanks
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Old 03-03-2018, 09:35 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Llittle54 View Post
Take a look at The More We Explore’s video of the install on his 23. He runs a short piece of conduit from the combiner box to the ceiling to act as protection from the sharp aluminum. I thought this was a great idea. On my last install I fumbled with rubber grommets. Got them in but his conduit method looks way easier. I’m doing another install when it warms up. Already have all the internal electronics in and my wire sitting in the closet. Let us know how it goes and if you find other ideas you like. I may steal a few!
I protected my cable with plastic wire loom rather than rubber grommets then sealed around the loom with vulcuum.
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Old 03-03-2018, 11:35 AM   #6
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2014 FC25FB Twin

Too late now I guess, but I ran 4/2 (actually two 4s) through the chase for the sewer vent in the bathroom. This provided a reference for drilling the roof (the vent cap) and a reference for drilling the interior (the vent pipe). The two holes are not exactly aligned but fishing them was not a problem. The wire exits the chase just below toilet seat level and enters the water heater/converter compartment at the bed platform support level. The wire is routed across the top of the converter and through the curb side front locker to the “DC panel” under the curbside twin bed head. Because the DC panel is inconvenient to access I put the panel breaker high on the chase cover panel in the bathroom. The batteries remain in the A frame battery box.

My closet is on the street side but the DC panel is on the curb side.

I converted from 4 to 6 AWG on the DC panel and modified the 6 AWG ring lugs to fit the Blue Sky controller inputs and outputs—that is a very tight fit. To make it work as I wanted I also had to join the cable access holes in the Blue Sky box and fabricate a new strain relief.

The following thread shows how I improved access to the DC panel. I also happens to have a “before” image of the DC panel.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449/disassembling-the-street-side-bench-to-reach-the-electrical-systems-175178.html
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Old 03-21-2018, 06:55 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by BillfromWI View Post
2014 FC25FB Twin

Too late now I guess, but I ran 4/2 (actually two 4s) through the chase for the sewer vent in the bathroom. This provided a reference for drilling the roof (the vent cap) and a reference for drilling the interior (the vent pipe). The two holes are not exactly aligned but fishing them was not a problem. The wire exits the chase just below toilet seat level and enters the water heater/converter compartment at the bed platform support level. The wire is routed across the top of the converter and through the curb side front locker to the “DC panel” under the curbside twin bed head. Because the DC panel is inconvenient to access I put the panel breaker high on the chase cover panel in the bathroom. The batteries remain in the A frame battery box.

My closet is on the street side but the DC panel is on the curb side.

I converted from 4 to 6 AWG on the DC panel and modified the 6 AWG ring lugs to fit the Blue Sky controller inputs and outputs—that is a very tight fit. To make it work as I wanted I also had to join the cable access holes in the Blue Sky box and fabricate a new strain relief.

The following thread shows how I improved access to the DC panel. I also happens to have a “before” image of the DC panel.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449/disassembling-the-street-side-bench-to-reach-the-electrical-systems-175178.html
On my 2018 FC25FBT the vent on the roof is offset from the pipe in the bath wall. Maybe that's because of the central air ducting. Did you have that situation as well?
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Old 03-21-2018, 07:00 PM   #8
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Howdy,

I always place the converter box directly above the closet (with one drilled hole) and run the 4/2 right down the wall, along the back of the cabinet and down behind the drawers to the water heater. From there, I usually run the 4/2 along the bed frame and into the center of the coach, where I usually place the batteries and all of the solar components.

I would drill up from the inside of your closet. It works for me..................
Lewster,
On a 2018 FC25FBT would you take this same route of drilling a hole above the bedroom closet and then straight down into the water heater area under the bed or take the much longer route of going down the fridge vent and under the coach? If you drill a hole in a trailer with the roof air duct, like the newer 25's do you just seal up the hole on the bottom and seal the combiner box on the roof or is there something special to watch out for?
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:01 PM   #9
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through vent hole is NOT a good way!
too much moisture

best to go through an area above the closet.
rear the others suggest for wire loom etc
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Old 03-22-2018, 01:16 AM   #10
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through vent hole is NOT a good way!
too much moisture

best to go through an area above the closet.
rear the others suggest for wire loom etc
That was the hope I had, I was just wondering how much to worry about the double roof the new Airstreams have withbthe actual roof and insulation followed by the AC air duct followed by the inner ceiling. Do I silicone in a conduit in which to run the wires or what?
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Old 03-22-2018, 03:10 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by daleyocum View Post
That was the hope I had, I was just wondering how much to worry about the double roof the new Airstreams have withbthe actual roof and insulation followed by the AC air duct followed by the inner ceiling. Do I silicone in a conduit in which to run the wires or what?
NEVER use silicone in an RV! Sikaflex 221 is your answer!!!!!!
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:06 AM   #12
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NEVER use silicone in an RV! Sikaflex 221 is your answer!!!!!!
Actually I have been using Sikafkex, I was just being fast and loose with the terminology.

That being said do you have an opinion on going down through the double roof of the newer airstreams with a Sikaflex’ed conduit for a wire chase vs the fridge vent but then have a much longer wire run to get under the curb side front bed?
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Old 03-23-2018, 09:25 AM   #13
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I just punched a 1” hole through my 2016 23 fb. Ran 2 6 gauge from AMSolar and the Weboost cable through the holes with 3/4 ID grommets in each hole (outer and inner). Went from combiner box straight down into the wardrobe. No problem.
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:35 AM   #14
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I just punched a 1” hole through my 2016 23 fb. Ran 2 6 gauge from AMSolar and the Weboost cable through the holes with 3/4 ID grommets in each hole (outer and inner). Went from combiner box straight down into the wardrobe. No problem.
I was wondering what’s up there. Isn’t there insulation up there as well? Are there just two layers of metal or are there three!
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Old 03-24-2018, 09:45 AM   #15
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Two layers with insulation. I lined up the hole by identifying the ribs with the rivets and went up from the wardrobe after assuring myself several times I had it lined up right.
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Old 03-25-2018, 12:24 AM   #16
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Two layers with insulation. I lined up the hole by identifying the ribs with the rivets and went up from the wardrobe after assuring myself several times I had it lined up right.
Thanks sure is tempting! For solar it’s SO much closer to electrical systems than going down the fridge!
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