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Old 10-26-2005, 12:05 AM   #21
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If you buy a good inverter, like a Heart for instance, it will automaticaly switch from an inverter to a three stage batterie charger When you plug it in to a 120 volt circuit. When it is not connected to 120 volts it puts out 120 volts AC and or 12 volts DC at the same time. Mine is 2000 Watts. also remember that 12 volt takes a lot larger wire for the same wattage. Mac
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Old 10-26-2005, 12:20 AM   #22
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Hi Traveller -

I would think that you should plan on putting in a newer three-way fridge (propane, 110 volt, 12 volt) although you can't run it entirely on 12 volt power. It does require 12 volt to run on the propane for the controls. When on propane, it will cool right down and uses minimal 12 volt power.

Look into the IntelliPower with Charge Wizard as a battery charger while plugged into shore power. I think you'll find its just what you've been looking for. They come in different models.

Other items you may want to consider are reading lights over the sleeping area(s). Wire it now and leave the wire ends available for later if you like. I also wired in two cigarette lighter plugs for use with various items like my laptop and a 12 volt Endless Breeze portable fan. While I think about it, I put in two 12 volt muffin fans at the base of the fridge vent above the fridge to increase air circulation behind the fridge increasing its efficiency. Makes a big difference on a hot day.

I have a wiring diagram around here somewhere that I made in Adobe Illustrator. I'll see if I can find it and post.

Brad
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:46 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshr
I have a wiring diagram around here somewhere that I made in Adobe Illustrator. I'll see if I can find it and post...
thanks brad! if you do have something to peep, that would be great. i'll hold off on taking another stab at my diagram until then.

i am planning on starting the wiring on the running lights this weekend. i have 4 side markers, and i think i'm putting 4 markers on the front (to cover existing holes), and the license mount with light. i don't have the tail lights yet, so that will have to wait for a bit. anyway, the markers are all run in parallel, off one lead. what guage wire should i look at for that kind of load? all these lights ground to the body. also, is there a standard color scheme for these wires that i could follow (so future owners won't pull their hair out?) as i understand it, i have one line for the marker lights (does this one run to the tail lights as well?), one line for the brake lights, one for the electric brakes, one for left turn, and one for right. did i miss anything?

jp
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:15 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
i am planning on starting the wiring on the running lights this weekend. i have 4 side markers, and i think i'm putting 4 markers on the front (to cover existing holes), and the license mount with light. i don't have the tail lights yet, so that will have to wait for a bit. anyway, the markers are all run in parallel, off one lead. what guage wire should i look at for that kind of load? all these lights ground to the body. also, is there a standard color scheme for these wires that i could follow (so future owners won't pull their hair out?) as i understand it, i have one line for the marker lights (does this one run to the tail lights as well?), one line for the brake lights, one for the electric brakes, one for left turn, and one for right. did i miss anything?

jp
Jordan,

the running lights, license light, and taillights can all use the same wire. The gauge should be 14. I would use the color code that is listed in the standard 7-pin connectors.
I believe it is green for running lights, brown for turn signal/brake right, red for turn signal/brake left, white for ground ( use a 10or 12gauge for this)
Yellow for the brakes, and blue for the charge line.
Someone please correct me if I got this backwards, as I am writing this from memory.
You can use 14 gauge for all the lights ( 3 circuits)
You do not need separate wires for brake lights, the turn signals and brake lights are the same filament. When you brake and turn, the corresponding brake light will blink.
I suggest to use 10 gauge for the ground, 10 gauge for the charge line, and 12 gauge for the brake wiring.
My charge line doubles as a power supply for an electric tongue jack, and also for the breakaway switch. It is fused near the battery by a 40A fuse. The tongue jack has it's own fuse.
The charge line runs directly to the batteries, through the 40A fuse. The converter also runs to the batteries, is basically paralleled to the charge line. It is quite simple, really.
I chose a 60A intellipower, with charge wizard. Bought it from a forum member, who sells them at a discount to other forum members. I forget his handle right now.
A good, solid chassis ground to the 7-way plug is key to a reliably functioning system. I connected my ground wire to one of the ribs of the shell, and applied protective grease to avoid future corrosion.
My wiring supplies, grommets, and fuse box, fuses etc. came from www.waytekwire.com and www.wurthusa.com
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:19 AM   #25
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There are really good wiring diagrams on the Airstream web site in the owners manuals for the newer trailers.They include wire gauge and color coding.I used them to plan the wiring in my '61.
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:21 AM   #26
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I used this plug and color code:
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 7wayplug1966-81.pdf (9.0 KB, 93 views)
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:49 AM   #27
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Uwe,

That plug diagram is just weird. Why didn't you go to the current standard?
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:59 AM   #28
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Uwe,

That plug diagram is just weird. Why didn't you go to the current standard?
I used the 7-pin round because it is a far superior connection. The 7-pin flat only carry 20A max, and are very prone to corrosion.
The 7-pin round are the same as found on the front skin of Airstreams from the 70's.
I needed a very solid power transfer for my electric/hydraulic brake system, and this is the only connection that is "legal" for 30A continuous use.
Maybe the diagram is weird, the 7-way round pin plug is definitely not.
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Old 10-26-2005, 10:45 AM   #29
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Uwe,
I agree with the round plug thing, it's the colors I think are unusual.
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Old 10-26-2005, 11:18 AM   #30
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ok, so where do i get the umbilical with the plug, then? my truck is wired with the 7 way flat connectors...

oh wait... i know....

eBay!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4Y-BA...spagenameZWD1V

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BARGM...spagenameZWD1V
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Old 10-26-2005, 12:46 PM   #31
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Also sorry to break in but a question about the dual refrigerator. Because of the use of propane does the refrigerator require piping and vent to the roof or can you vent out the side using the old heater vent.
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Old 10-26-2005, 01:37 PM   #32
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If you go to the Dometic website, they have very specific requirements for the distance between the lower inlet and upper exhaust.

I'm sure this is to ensure that there is enough 'draft' to adequately remove heat.

So I guess I would have to vote no.
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Old 10-26-2005, 05:20 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Uwe,
I agree with the round plug thing, it's the colors I think are unusual.
Actually, i think I did go with the current standard of the wiring, but had to convert it to the colors on the 7-pin round..and used the Airstream standard on the trailer end for this, so any unmolested Airstream umbilical cord with the 7-pin round trailer connector would work on my trailer.
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