replacing the 7 pin connector wire and plug

[RogK]

I need to replace the 7 pin connector plug on a Sport 22fb. Has anyone done this? Where is the trailer end connection? Is it accessible? Or do I have to cut the wire and splice in a new plug? Thanks Rog

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by RogK

I need to replace the 7 pin connector plug on a Sport 22fb. Has anyone done this? Where is the trailer end connection? Is it accessible? Or do I have to cut the wire and splice in a new plug? Thanks Rog

I don't know how they are doing it now but mine ran through the road side frame member and then into a hole in the floor behind the sofa. A black plastic junction box was mounted to the front wall behind the sofa near the electrical panel that was under the roadside end of the sofa. I ran a new cable (which was REALLY hard to do due to the turns the cable had to make and the entry holes being small) but the connector on it was not great. Unfortunately didn't find that out until I installed it and hooked it all up. I ended up mounting another junction box (google 7 way rv cable junction box) on the A frame where I cut the old cable. Crimp lugs on 14 wires and screw then onto the studs in the box and you are done.


Al

[richard5933]

Like Al already mentioned, there should be a junction point inside the nose of your trailer.

The best method of doing this is to replace the entire cord and plug rather than splicing a new plug onto the old cord. Doing it with a totally new setup gives you a plug which is molded onto the end of the cable and much more weather resistant. You also get a new cord, which on a 2019 trailer is not a bad idea since the insulation breaks down over time from the sun.

Assuming that things haven't changed that much over the years, you should be able to follow the route of the cable through the A-frame and into the trailer. It will likely be necessary to do a little deconstruction of the furniture at the nose of the trailer to gain access to the junction point, but it shouldn't be that difficult.

[DCPAS]

Originally Posted by RogK

I need to replace the 7 pin connector plug on a Sport 22fb. Has anyone done this? Where is the trailer end connection? Is it accessible? Or do I have to cut the wire and splice in a new plug? Thanks Rog

My 7 pin connector has pulled away from the external cover and I plan to replace just the plug. I have done this on two other trailers without issue. The Pollak brand replacement plug was easy to use.

[Trowbridge]

Is easy to replace just the plug. Just make sure you retain as much of the cord wires (if you shorten them you can end up with too short a cord to plug into the tow vehicle without unplugging around tight corners. ALSO, mark the individual wires with tape as to which connection they tie to.

Unless it has been damaged, you should not need to replace the cable itself. They don't age as others have implied. That's a huge pain. I've replaced our plug on our 1964 Sovereign 30 and the cable has remained in great condition.

[Wanderer2604]

As you work on the 7-pin wiring or connector, remember that the battery charge line is probably 'hot'. You can replaced them without unhooking the batteries but be careful not to create any shorts while you work. Low voltage but high current.

[Wetfeet]

My 7-pin connector cord on my 2015 FC FB wore out several years ago, and I took one look at the routing for the cable going into the trailer and decided there had to be a better way. I installed a sealed connector box on the tongue and terminated the original cord coming from the trailer there, and I purchased and installed a 4-foot cord and molded 7-pin plug which also attaches to the connector box. This makes it easy to swap out the plug and the short length of the cord whenever age and lots of use damage it. I bought the connector box and cords at www.etrailer.com. I attached a picture, although I apologize because the sun makes it less than ideal.

[JCWDCW]

I’ve replaced two umbilicals
On both I mounted a plastic junction box outside under the trailer body on one and under the top and tanks on the second
I soldered the black, blue, and white to be certain of secure connections. Crimp connected the lights
Seal the entry and exits and stew on the cover
You probably won’t find all the end connections inside the trailer. Some of my wiring disappeared onto the walls

[MrStreamer]

Agree with previous posts …
Suggest cut the 7 pin head off and attach new wire to old and gently pull new wire through

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by Trowbridge

Is easy to replace just the plug. Just make sure you retain as much of the cord wires (if you shorten them you can end up with too short a cord to plug into the tow vehicle without unplugging around tight corners. ALSO, mark the individual wires with tape as to which connection they tie to.

Unless it has been damaged, you should not need to replace the cable itself. They don't age as others have implied. That's a huge pain. I've replaced our plug on our 1964 Sovereign 30 and the cable has remained in great condition.

Perhaps you've never seen this, but the outer jacket on the 7-wire cable can certainly age out, especially if exposed to sun/UV rays.

When I bought my 1994 the outer covering on the7-wire cable was stiff and crispy. Definitely sun damaged.

[Trowbridge]

Interesting. Must have used better quality cable in our 1964 Airstream?!? Is still flexible and pliable.

[IronMaiden]

Originally Posted by RogK

I need to replace the 7 pin connector plug on a Sport 22fb. Has anyone done this? Where is the trailer end connection? Is it accessible? Or do I have to cut the wire and splice in a new plug? Thanks Rog

We just did this on our 22ft Sport. Got the plug at a trailer shop. Cut off the old plug, strip the wires (make sure you follow the colors but the plug directions should show this, if not have the trailer shop show you). Then carefully reconnect the wires ( our plug had a screw connection similar to house wiring). It was a tight connection but just make sure when you unhook to not pull on the cord. We put 5,000 miles over the summer without a problem.

[RogK]

Thank you for your quick responses and help. This certainly gives me multiple, good options. I am a little concerned about how weather tight the connection would be if I just replace the plug, but I see there are several plug options - some which claim to be weather tight. That would surly be the easiest and fairly simple. The junction box sounds like a reasonable and good idea also. I have my trailer in storage now, but next spring, I'll check further for the junction connection inside the trailer and make a final decision then. Thanks again everyone. It's nice to have a forum like this for help.Rog

[Papou]

Originally Posted by RogK

I need to replace the 7 pin connector plug on a Sport 22fb. Has anyone done this? Where is the trailer end connection? Is it accessible? Or do I have to cut the wire and splice in a new plug? Thanks Rog

Hello, I replaced the 7 pin plug a few years ago and discovered that there were two standards! For information purposes, attached is a document which illustrates this incompatibility...
Michel

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by Trowbridge

Interesting. Must have used better quality cable in our 1964 Airstream?!? Is still flexible and pliable.

Probably a combination of factors, including a change in the type and quality of the rubber used over the decades and how much sun the cords have been exposed to over the years. A few decades in the sun in a state like Maine won't have the same effect as a few decades in Texas.

I have some old hand tools from the 60s and 70s with original electric cords still in great shape, and some from the last few years with cords already showing cracks and splits. The new plastic-based 'rubber' insulation is just not the same.

[Fungus]

ProPride installation necessitated a longer cord or an extension. After the extension came loose a couple times, I cut the cord and spliced in this BougeRV 7 Way Trailer Plug Weatherproof Trailer Wiring Harness. The junction box lives with the propane tanks. The TPMS repeater is wired to the junction box too. I bought three different brands. One was too flimsy. The other two were identical except for the name.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Like anything else, these cords (and the plugs) can be a "you get what you pay for" sort of thing. Working out just what brand / make / model actually is worth the money is not at all easy. What was a good brand two years ago may now be owned by somebody else and now selling absolute junk ....

Ideally you would like a cable with silicone insulation rather than PVC. Already you are into a detail that most outfits aren't going to have in their specs. Next up you would like pure copper wire and not the copper plated aluminum stuff. Again, good luck finding that spec'd. If it's copper plated aluminum, you need a larger wire gauge to carry the current. Then you are off to the details of the plug construction ....yikes .....

Bob

[Daquenzer]

I went to a place that worked on trailers. They were replacing my brakes, and they asked if I wanted another cord on it that would be easier. I had a propride hitch and that extender was a pain. Also the cords are very stiff. So the guy at the trailer place replaced it with a much more flexible and a bit longer cord to work with the Propride hitch. I’m not sure how much it cost me, but it wasn’t that much. You might want to consider that as an option instead of trying to do this yourself.

As Bob stated above “yikes.”

I know when I am getting into something that just is above my “pay grade” and not worth the aggravation without the proper tools, equipment, etc.

[Tim A.]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Ideally you would like a cable with silicone insulation rather than PVC. Already you are into a detail that most outfits aren't going to have in their specs. Next up you would like pure copper wire and not the copper plated aluminum stuff.

Originally Posted by Daquenzer

the guy at the trailer place replaced it with a much more flexible and a bit longer cord to work with the Propride hitch.

Silicone rubber insulation, longer, and with copper wires is not so difficult to find. A couple of years ago, I replaced our cable with this: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Wir...54006-059.html. It's extra length worked great for the length needed for our Hensley hitch.

The wire color coding matched our original cable perfectly so changing was not a problem.

Tim

[richard5933]

If you want a more flexible cord look for one which is rated to work in freezing weather. They are formulated to stay flexible in these conditions are generally are easier to handle all the time.

But, like tires that perform better in cold weather, the rubber composition will be different. One cost for easier handling might be shorter life span.