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Old 05-09-2018, 01:24 PM   #1
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Removing Vent - Installing Fan - Maybe

I am almost certain that I read a post somewhere on here a few months ago about someone who had replaced the forward vent with a powered fan. I have a 2007, 23ft Safari SE which presently has a crank open unpowered vent in the forward area.
Would like to install a MaxxAir 7000K in its place, but having an issue with finding a 12v power source.
Someone had done a similar job and tapped into the power from one of the lights, but I expect that would make the fan dependent on the lights being on ? - which wouldn't work when we boondock, as it would be wasted power draw. Also it would be nice to have running at night to pull fresh air in, but not be directly over the bed.
Anyway I called AS today and spoke with a nice fellow who said my particular model does not have a pre-installed wiring harness for the powered fan.... rats, that would be a quick win. He suggested snaking down inside the interior panel to a 12V outlet, but I have windows between the ribs, best I can see, so I would doubt I can make it down to the main shutoff switch.
An alternative is that it would be about 6 inches away from the rib forward of the vent area and wondering if anyone knows if the ribs are solid or perforated, where I could snake a 12 ga wire through? If I worked it at an angle, there is a shot I could get over to the area where the radio is mounted in the front right corner and there is a 12v cigarette lighter outlet there I could tap into?
Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. As would direction to any threads that you know about that may have covered this, but that I cant seem to find.
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Old 05-09-2018, 02:49 PM   #2
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I don't know about newer airstreams but at least the 70s to 90s had the wiring harness running up the center of the roof along side the vents. Maybe yours was not prewired for a fan but if the wiring harness is there it would be easy to splice into it
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Old 05-09-2018, 03:30 PM   #3
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Is there a ceiling light in the area?
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Old 05-09-2018, 07:26 PM   #4
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There are several dome lights nearby.
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred L View Post
There are several dome lights nearby.
You could tap into the 12 volts to a ceiling light...
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:26 PM   #6
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found 12v

I have a 25ft. 2006 safari se/le. I replaced our front with fantastic vent. I used a small paddle bit and made e hole in ceiling rib towards shower bath. Fished a wire to get 12v off of shower exhaust fan. Did not want to power lights to use fan.
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Old 05-10-2018, 07:42 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by azflycaster View Post
You could tap into the 12 volts to a ceiling light...
Thanks, but per my post above, wouldn't that make the fan dependent on the lights being on?
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Old 05-10-2018, 07:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Thanks, but per my post above, wouldn't that make the fan dependent on the lights being on?
That would depend on if the ceiling light switch is in the light or on the wall.
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Old 05-10-2018, 07:54 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Bigeddie58 View Post
I have a 25ft. 2006 safari se/le. I replaced our front with fantastic vent. I used a small paddle bit and made e hole in ceiling rib towards shower bath. Fished a wire to get 12v off of shower exhaust fan. Did not want to power lights to use fan.
Similar to my thoughts, but curious when you say paddle bit, do you mean similar to a spade bit? Is the rib aluminum (assuming it is).

I expect the best way for me to figure this out will be to remove the inside and roof side of the vent and look around.
Problem is my AS is outside and will need to button up the job by end of day, or worst case a day or two depending on the forecast for rain.

If I get lucky and find the electrical harness? running near the vent, how does one determine positive and negative 12v wires to splice to.
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Old 05-10-2018, 08:21 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred L View Post

If I get lucky and find the electrical harness? running near the vent, how does one determine positive and negative 12v wires to splice to.
White wires should be neutral, black or colored charged. You could also take a 12v test light and clip the wire to the coach shell and probe the wires with the sharp end. The "wiring harness" should not be in a sheath but a bundle of wires.
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Old 05-10-2018, 07:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred L View Post
I am almost certain that I read a post somewhere on here a few months ago about someone who had replaced the forward vent with a powered fan. I have a 2007, 23ft Safari SE which presently has a crank open unpowered vent in the forward area.
Would like to install a MaxxAir 7000K in its place, but having an issue with finding a 12v power source.
Someone had done a similar job and tapped into the power from one of the lights, but I expect that would make the fan dependent on the lights being on ? - which wouldn't work when we boondock, as it would be wasted power draw. Also it would be nice to have running at night to pull fresh air in, but not be directly over the bed.
Anyway I called AS today and spoke with a nice fellow who said my particular model does not have a pre-installed wiring harness for the powered fan.... rats, that would be a quick win. He suggested snaking down inside the interior panel to a 12V outlet, but I have windows between the ribs, best I can see, so I would doubt I can make it down to the main shutoff switch.
An alternative is that it would be about 6 inches away from the rib forward of the vent area and wondering if anyone knows if the ribs are solid or perforated, where I could snake a 12 ga wire through? If I worked it at an angle, there is a shot I could get over to the area where the radio is mounted in the front right corner and there is a 12v cigarette lighter outlet there I could tap into?
Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. As would direction to any threads that you know about that may have covered this, but that I cant seem to find.

I don't have time to read the whole thread and maybe somebody has already said this, but having the fan dependent on the bedroom lights is not a big deal. I have a 2004 Safari and this year replaced the front vent with a Fantastic Fan. Yes it is dependent on the Bedroom rocker switch being engaged and the front shutoff needs to be in the on position too... but the lights can be off individually, so you aren't burning up power.

If you haven't replaced your old filament bulbs with LED equivalents from M4LED or a similar vendor, then you can decrease your power drain significantly that way. I don't know abour the Maxxfan 7000K, but the Fantastic Fan model 7350 has an ultra low power drain. My rear fan is a Shur Flow fan (better than the Fantastic Fan but out of business of fans) and the circulation flow created by both going with one exhausting and one intaking is amazing.

So put it in and then just make sure the power switches are on when you want to use the fan, but keep the individual light switches off.
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Old 05-11-2018, 08:36 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Silver.Sanctuary View Post
I don't have time to read the whole thread and maybe somebody has already said this, but having the fan dependent on the bedroom lights is not a big deal. I have a 2004 Safari .
Thank you, but our layouts are quite different I expect since I our bathroom is in the back of the trailer and this is the forward vent I am looking to replace. Think 23D.

I don't want to have lights on during the day, or at night while sleeping, so doing all I can to avoid connecting to the multiple dome lights which are the only lights nearby.

Sounding more like I will have three options, with preference in the order listed :
1. cross my fingers that when I pull the vent that there is a wiring harness running near by. Doubtful being that most of the wiring "appears" to run under the couch and street side cabinets.
2. attempt to fish a connection forward by drilling through one rib to hopefully access the radio area in the front curbside, but would want to know more about this and any impact on the structural aspects of the ribs before proceeding.
3. put a replacement unpowered vent in.
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Old 05-11-2018, 11:14 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Fred L View Post
Thank you, but our layouts are quite different I expect since I our bathroom is in the back of the trailer and this is the forward vent I am looking to replace. Think 23D.

I don't want to have lights on during the day, or at night while sleeping, so doing all I can to avoid connecting to the multiple dome lights which are the only lights nearby.

Sounding more like I will have three options, with preference in the order listed :
1. cross my fingers that when I pull the vent that there is a wiring harness running near by. Doubtful being that most of the wiring "appears" to run under the couch and street side cabinets.
2. attempt to fish a connection forward by drilling through one rib to hopefully access the radio area in the front curbside, but would want to know more about this and any impact on the structural aspects of the ribs before proceeding.
3. put a replacement unpowered vent in.
I guess I can appreciate that layouts are different, but it is inconceivable that your lights are not wired in parallel. My trailer has 6 or 7 double light fixtures from the back (rear kitchen) to the front (bed and dresser) and they clearly went from one light to the next on both the "Ceiling" and the "Bedrooom" rocker switches by the door. (my front vent was between two bedroom light fixtures) They also put a rocker switch at the very front of the trailer so when you are in bed you don't have to get up to turn out the bedroom lights. Each fixture has an integral switch to turn on either one or two 'bulbs' (now LEDs). If the lights are wired in parallel, you don't have to have any lights on in order to power your fan if you also wire the fan in parallel....

Now if the inconceivable is reality, I guess I can't help. It is difficult to understand whether or not your lights wired in parallel but if it is fuzzy, maybe some of the EEs here can do a better job of explaining . If you actually have a trailer that has lights wired to individual switches with no on/off switch at the light fixture, then I could understand your response.

I might suggest you call an Airstream shop or Jackson Center. I suspect they can tell you where the wiring harnesses are... I know that my "documentation' is not to scale, but if you have the documentation, it would show whether your ceiling lights are in parallel or individually wired.

Good Luck with your project.
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:00 PM   #14
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Interesting Silver Sanctuary and must admit that I don't completely comprehend the aspect of being wired in parallel. There are roughly 8 dome lights in the ceiling that are turned on/off by one switch, which is just inside the door to the right (rocker). If wired in parallel, are you saying that there will be consistent 12v power, ie live wires to the lights where I could splice into ? If so, that should work well.

I did call Jackson Center and spoke with one of the customer service folks who was very nice, but I have to admit I don't quite think he understood what I was asking. Tried to explain that I wanted to replace a vent with a fan and was looking for a way to connect it. He said that on newer trailers, some have the wiring in place to convert it, but that my model didn't. I did mention that I preferred not having to connect to the lights since I didn't want the fan to be dependent on the lights being on, he kind of agreed and didn't say much.

Perhaps another call to JC is in order.
Thanks for your thoughts.
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Old 05-12-2018, 11:19 PM   #15
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Removing Vent - Installing Fan - Maybe

The lights are wired in parallel with the one switch turning the 12 volt power to all the lights on and off. You could not add a fan to that circuit, because the single switch controls ALL power to the circuit. Adding a fan will require running new wires to power the fan from some other place than your current lights that all turn on with one switch.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:34 AM   #16
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We own a 2009 25' Flying Cloud that suprisingly sie not come with factory powered fans. I installed fantastic fans last year and was very pleased to find dedicated power capped off at the vent location. I had to reach back about 12" toward drivers side. I would guess similar situation for your Safari.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:39 AM   #17
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We own a 2009 25' Flying Cloud that suprisingly sie not come with factory powered fans. I installed fantastic fans last year and was very pleased to find dedicated power capped off at the vent location. I had to reach back about 12" toward drivers side. I would guess similar situation for your Safari.
Correction. I apologize I see you already spoke with Airstream on wiring. Ignore my statement.
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:57 AM   #18
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The lights are wired in parallel with the one switch turning the 12 volt power to all the lights on and off. You could not add a fan to that circuit
My thinking also.
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Old 06-23-2019, 11:10 AM   #19
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Vent installation in a full monty

Hi all!

I am puzzled about the "correct" order of installing my vents. I'm doing a full monty and have the interior walls and electric completely out. I don't want to begin installing insulation and electric until I know the trailer is watertight - which would involve installing the ceiling vents and making sure they're sealed. BUT most of the threads on vent installation are not during the full monty renovation process, and the interior walls, insulation, electrical, etc. are already in. So what's the correct order here? (I plan on installing 2 vents with fans and one skylight)

1. Install and seal vents --> electrical + insulation --> reinstall interior walls

2. Electrical + insulation --> reinstall interior walls --> install and seal vents

3. Install exterior portion of vent (is this a thing?) --> electrical + insulation --> reinstall interior walls + interior portion of vent

Thanks!!
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Old 06-23-2019, 12:02 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Stargirl View Post
Hi all!

I am puzzled about the "correct" order of installing my vents. I'm doing a full monty and have the interior walls and electric completely out. I don't want to begin installing insulation and electric until I know the trailer is watertight - which would involve installing the ceiling vents and making sure they're sealed. BUT most of the threads on vent installation are not during the full monty renovation process, and the interior walls, insulation, electrical, etc. are already in. So what's the correct order here? (I plan on installing 2 vents with fans and one skylight)

1. Install and seal vents --> electrical + insulation --> reinstall interior walls

2. Electrical + insulation --> reinstall interior walls --> install and seal vents

3. Install exterior portion of vent (is this a thing?) --> electrical + insulation --> reinstall interior walls + interior portion of vent

Thanks!!

I suggest #3 so you can run wiring, test operation of the vents, and insure no leaks before completing the interior. But as you note, you'll still have to wait until the interior is complete to install the finishing trim on the interior. But there are many here who've done the whole process who can advise if this creates any unforeseen pitfalls.


Ps. - are you considering any solar install now or in the future? If so, that could also be something done (or at least pre-wired) before completing the interior.
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