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Old 06-23-2019, 02:28 PM   #21
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1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
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#3 would be easiest. My Maxxfans installed from the exterior, and were super easy to install and seal with the interior skins out. I screwed through a piece of aluminum angle fore and aft to take the tension of flattening the curve instead of flexing the plastic frame. Once interior skins were up, I installed the interior trim.
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Old 06-23-2019, 03:35 PM   #22
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2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach , Virginia
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Originally Posted by Fred L View Post
Similar to my thoughts, but curious when you say paddle bit, do you mean similar to a spade bit? Is the rib aluminum (assuming it is).

I expect the best way for me to figure this out will be to remove the inside and roof side of the vent and look around.
Problem is my AS is outside and will need to button up the job by end of day, or worst case a day or two depending on the forecast for rain.

If I get lucky and find the electrical harness? running near the vent, how does one determine positive and negative 12v wires to splice to.
If you can't finish in one day, poke an umbrella theu the hole, open it and tie the handle down to a nearby drawer handle or table leg and it should be fine.
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Old 06-25-2019, 01:05 PM   #23
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1968 26' Overlander
Los Gatos , California
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Solar Panels

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Originally Posted by rowiebowie View Post
I suggest #3 so you can run wiring, test operation of the vents, and insure no leaks before completing the interior. But as you note, you'll still have to wait until the interior is complete to install the finishing trim on the interior. But there are many here who've done the whole process who can advise if this creates any unforeseen pitfalls.


Ps. - are you considering any solar install now or in the future? If so, that could also be something done (or at least pre-wired) before completing the interior.
I am definitely going to wire for solar panels (even if I can't actually afford them for a few years). I haven't decided if my best option is going to be the panels on the roof though. It seems it would be more convenient to have ground panels that I can move into the sun and park the trailer in the shade.
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Old 06-25-2019, 01:28 PM   #24
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Baltimore , Maryland
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Originally Posted by Stargirl View Post
I am definitely going to wire for solar panels (even if I can't actually afford them for a few years). I haven't decided if my best option is going to be the panels on the roof though. It seems it would be more convenient to have ground panels that I can move into the sun and park the trailer in the shade.
I ran my wires to an AM solar roof combiner box while I had my walls open. That worked out great for me, since it allowed me to install my roof solar later with no trouble, and gave me lots of flexibility on my install.

I do kind of wish I had added an exterior plug for a ground deploy at the same time.

If I had to do it again, I'd do the roof combiner box and a Furrion solar inlet hooked to the same 4 gauge wire inside the walls, run to where my charge controller would be. That would give me maximum flexibility for putting whatever panels I wanted, wherever I wanted them.

Solar inlet

https://www.amazon.com/Furrion-FSPIN.../dp/B017P8H8XG

Combiner box

https://amsolar.com/rv-combiner-box/20-roof
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Old 06-25-2019, 02:12 PM   #25
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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If you have a metal framed roof vent I would not replace it with a plastic fan housing. If anything, I would just add a fan to the existing vent. Not sure about newer trailers but in mine that vent has a nice strong metal frame that stiffens the roof. Also the plastic will eventually crack and fail. The less plastic on your roof the better off you will be.



Perry
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Old 06-25-2019, 07:04 PM   #26
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Corpus Christi , Texas
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Originally Posted by Stargirl View Post
I am definitely going to wire for solar panels (even if I can't actually afford them for a few years). I haven't decided if my best option is going to be the panels on the roof though. It seems it would be more convenient to have ground panels that I can move into the sun and park the trailer in the shade.

Both are good options. Perhaps run an unused (for now) wire in the roof near one of the vents and one out the side for a portable solar connection. You'll have both just in case.


Good luck on your rehab.
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Old 06-25-2019, 07:06 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
If you have a metal framed roof vent I would not replace it with a plastic fan housing. If anything, I would just add a fan to the existing vent. Not sure about newer trailers but in mine that vent has a nice strong metal frame that stiffens the roof. Also the plastic will eventually crack and fail. The less plastic on your roof the better off you will be.
Perry

So you're saying "They don't make them like they used to".
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Old 06-25-2019, 10:10 PM   #28
Mike & Lynne
 
2003 30' Classic
Edisto Island , South Carolina
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[QUOTE=Stargirl;2255955]Hi all!






3. Install exterior portion of vent (is this a thing?) --> electrical + insulation --> reinstall interior walls + interior portion of vent



Door #3 is the winner. Seal all the exterior 1st. Install interior trim last.
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