Refrigerator Fan - Testing

[Dave-Nancy]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

Jake... my problem was reverse.

My fan would never stop running. It was a defective thermo (snap) switch that when below 115 to 120F disconnects power, and above the thermo switch, at operating temperature, the fan starts with 12v power connected by the switch.

Mine stayed connected to power 100% of the time, due to the faulty snap switch (there are a number of names for it). I would have to unplug it at night and replug the one connection to keep the fan working.

It was a defective thermo switch which is attached to a cooling fin on the upper back side of the refrigerator. Yours may be different. Airstream sent me a replacement. It did exactly the same. Purchased two on EBay and the replacement, and spare just in case, work fine.

The fuse is easy to 'blow'. Check that first, if yours has one. Mine is on hanging on the wires connected to the fan.

Comments to me are on the thread under Refrigerators: 2014 Dometic Fan Running Full Time when cold.

When they run all of the time, it is a drain on the battery when Off the Grid. If it does not work, the efficiency of your Dometic Refrigerator is poor.

If you do not have a microwave, your refrigerator vents through the roof of your trailer. No issue with a fan. Good luck. My fan also was so noisy, Airstream would not send me one, the manufacturer pretty much wanted too much money... I went to ebay, found a quiet one that cools a computer.

Finally... call me happy, happy, happy. Simple but frustrating with figuring out what you need to do.

Ray ... You know ... I think that you are the only one who mentioned that the fans are the same as computer fans. I sure didn't mention it. But, that is where I sourced mine. Good info! Mine came from the "Cooler Guys" in WA. Here are some specs. GentleTyphoon 120mm Silent Case Fan Series D1225C12B 1450,1850. It is really quiet, and moves plenty of air. The AS one ran on a metal to plastic bearing. Gentle Typhoon runs on ball bearings. The AS mountings work without modifications. Except that I couldn't leave it totally alone, and made some minor ones, myself. https://www.coolerguys.com/products/...0-and-4250-rpm is their web address. They often provide these fans for RV use, they told me. Disclaimer: I have no personal connection with these people. But, think very highly of the service that I received from them. The fan is wonderful. Happy Wife-Happy Camping Life (she couldn't sleep with the noisy, original fan running). Dave

[Dave-Nancy]

I like this one https://www.coolerguys.com/products/...0-and-4250-rpm. Dave

[rmkrum]

For a few bucks more than the three fans, this assembly has some promise as well:

https://www.coolerguys.com/collectio...an-cooling-kit

I need to get some measurements to see if it will fit in my fridge door area.

They also have assemblies with one or two fans.

[Wrangler]

I just jumpered around the thermo-switch. The fan runs fine. My fridge compartment has just not been hot enough to close the switch.

[graywhale]

I posted almost a year ago about my refrigerator fan not running and requiring a "finger kick-start" periodically, and that I would be going to the dealer for a fan replacement; that was a joke as they decided to tighten the thermostat mount which was a little loose. Needless to say that didn't solve anything. So based on the sticky fan which was also quite noisy (when it ran), I opted to buy a dual fan setup from eBay (via a link I found somewhere on this forum) to replace it. I have now replaced it with the very quiet dual fan setup, and the refer works like a charm even on 100+ degree Sacramento days.

Just one odd thing: The original fan had it's thermostat wired into the red/hot wire, so I wired the new fan the same way. Then. after perusing the somewhat hard to follow instructions, it seems that the eBay store "ApplianceandAir" indicates to wire the thermostat into the black wires. Does anybody have any thoughts on that???

Thanks, Larry

[68 TWind]

I built a 3 fan unit for my 68 Tradewind last month. Mounted on top, inside the vent for the fridge. Ran the wires down the vent and made a switch panel inside a cabinet. I picked up a sack full of "muffin" fans at a ham radio swap meet last year for $2 each and selected the quietest ones. I can see several degree, 3-4 degree, drop in the box when they are running on these hot and humid Mississippi afternoon. I was hoping for a little more temp drop but I'll take what I can get. I also put a small fan inside the fridge thinking that it would stir up the air and drop the temp a few degrees. To my surprise, the temp goes up and stays up a few degrees when I run the fan inside the box. It does keep the fins from frosting up.

[CarterKraft]

Originally Posted by graywhale

I

Just one odd thing: The original fan had it's thermostat wired into the red/hot wire, so I wired the new fan the same way. Then. after perusing the somewhat hard to follow instructions, it seems that the eBay store "ApplianceandAir" indicates to wire the thermostat into the black wires. Does anybody have any thoughts on that???

Thanks, Larry

That change in wiring is probably for safety more than anything, switching the grounds removes the short circuit potential from the + wire. If the ground wire shorts to ground through the snap switch the fan will run but if the + wire shorts the fuse will blow or worse.

[graywhale]

Thanks CarterKraft!!

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by uraljohn

Just jump the two terminals on the little dime size thermos switch on back of fridge. Small jumper wire or even a paper clip will work. If fan is good it will come on [instasntly] I had a bad thermo switch on my fridge in my 2017 23D. I called Dometic and told them I could save them a warranty call if they would send me the switch. 2 minutes to install. Fixed. I also added another fan at top vent to help exhaust hot air out of fridge chamber. Huge difference in fridge performance. Also, prop open both doors for better airflow thru that cavity. [amazing what a difference this makes, in fact I usually just only open the top...fan goes off in 5 min usually] Exhausting the hot air out of that cavity is essential. Refrig performs better on propane than electric. safe travels.

Uraljohn, great advice. comments in brackets above.


NOTER: long shot but check the fuse (1 amp???) just inside the top opening to the right...follow the wires to the back of the fan switch located on the bulkhead.


More more thoughts on long term improvements (quieter more efficient fans) http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...-11811-15.html


just remember there are a lot of different rigs with different requirements and setups to be taken into consideration.


Here is what I did for my 20 on the 20's thread. welcome the the 20's club!

pre-install comments: #688
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...127845-50.html

install comments: #711
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...ml#post1774433

Post install comments: post 836
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...ml#post1785587
Original suggestion of opening the top refer door: post 11
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...an-151523.html