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Old 04-29-2006, 09:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pick
Mine is getting replaced with an Intellicharger this weekend. I am reading 29 volts AC, at the battery terminals, with the battery connected!
Aren't those old Uni-Volts nuts? Mine did something similar. That is the bridge rectifier going in them.
Did yer battery survive? Mine did.
I replaced mine with an Intelli-Power 60 with the Charge Wizard. Now my neighbor uses my converter to charge his battery for his pop-up!
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Old 04-29-2006, 09:27 PM   #22
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Got my Univolt out this afternoon. She put up one heck of a fight. Could not get the nuts to come loose, due to the bolt turning. So I got a pry bar and pried the bolts up through the plywood. I am going to take the fuse board out of the Univolt and use it with the new Intellicharger. A few pics below. This old unit has bad caps and rectifiers, it is putting out 29 volts AC
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Old 04-29-2006, 11:47 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pick
Got my Univolt out this afternoon. She put up one heck of a fight. Could not get the nuts to come loose, due to the bolt turning. So I got a pry bar and pried the bolts up through the plywood. I am going to take the fuse board out of the Univolt and use it with the new Intellicharger. A few pics below. This old unit has bad caps and rectifiers, it is putting out 29 volts AC
There is someone on the forums that has step-by-step procedure on how to remove the old fuse panel and mount it in a project box. It is on their website and I cannot remember what I did with the link.
My Minuet had the fuse panel in its own little box already. It was easy for me to replace mine.
You will love the new converter, buddy. I have had mine in for over a year now. My neighbor wants me to replace his so he does not have to keep coming over and yanking out my battery!
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:28 PM   #24
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I have some empathy for you as I just did the same today. I managed to get the bolts out after cutting the AC power line. Since my uni was in the bathroom closet I leaned against the tambour below my sink, now I have to realign it. What's the old uni good for. I am afraid to use it as an anchor, I may get a citation for discharge of deleterious material t a surface water?
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Old 05-04-2006, 04:56 PM   #25
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Was quite a move to remove mine, I had to trim the plywood wall, and now I try to find someone around me where to buy a new "univolt"....
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Old 05-04-2006, 05:06 PM   #26
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Intellipower with charge wizard

Forget another univolt.. good only for boat anchors.. we replaced our univolt in our other Argosy with the intellipower.. and never regretted it.. Annie
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Old 05-04-2006, 06:01 PM   #27
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I recommend either an Iota from solarseller.com or a WFCO from bestconverter.com. I have dealt with both and they were very nice to work with.
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Old 05-05-2006, 11:03 AM   #28
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I will order a WFCO; but before, I would like to know how difficult it is to plug it, because whit the univolt, everything is simple, the pink wire to the pink plug, etc... you guys konw what I mean,
any advice or pics of how it has to be plugged in,
thanks
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Old 05-05-2006, 12:19 PM   #29
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FIRST: Unplug your trailer from the 110v shorepower. Then, if you have a battery in the coach, disconnect the Positive wire to it.

DON'T disconnect your "univolt" until the new one shows up, OR clearly label the VDC outputs as POS and NEG, as they are hooked to the Univolt. The AC is simple. Remove the AC input from your univolt. Hook it up to a 110v outlet that you can buy at any home store like Home Depot. Get an outlet box, cover and the little clampy thing to hold the wire in the box. Your WFCO will plug into that box. Attach the outlet box to a wooden cabinet side or nearby.

When your WFCO arrives it will have a POS and NEG terminal. Attach the VDC wires you labeled POS and NEG to the appropriate terminals. Run a copper wire from the chassis ground on the WFCO and screw the other end into the skin or handy exposed metal surface.

You're done. I'm about to do all of this tomorrow or Sunday and I'll post a photographic account online here and on the Wally Wiki.
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Old 05-05-2006, 01:28 PM   #30
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Yikes!

My old univolt didn't have the circuit board with the fuses on it in the front of the unit. Now I know why it wouldn't work! That also explains the missing screws and rivets on the covers. I guess I'm going to need that board from an old univolt....ANYONE have one to spare. I got the new univolt from Inland and their site did say to "keep the old fuse panel", but I had no idea what fuse panel they were talking about as mine was already gone when I got the trailer.....HELP! Ed
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Old 05-05-2006, 02:32 PM   #31
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Ed, there's no breaker panel anywhere in your coach? There should be. The 67 has a different service area configuration than mine, but if you have the univolt withou the circuit panel, then it's somewhere in your coach, unless it was ripped out for some unknown reason. If it is, you got problems that will take some more experience than mine to solve. But follow the battery cable and see where it leads too. That's where your circuit panel should be.
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Old 05-05-2006, 04:16 PM   #32
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you could use a few of these , and get a replacement for your univolt (Inteli-power 9200)

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...DE_FUSES_.html
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Old 05-05-2006, 10:09 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2
Ed, there's no breaker panel anywhere in your coach? There should be. The 67 has a different service area configuration than mine, but if you have the univolt withou the circuit panel, then it's somewhere in your coach, unless it was ripped out for some unknown reason. If it is, you got problems that will take some more experience than mine to solve. But follow the battery cable and see where it leads too. That's where your circuit panel should be.
John, I have a circuit breaker box at the rear of my trailer behind the rear access panel. The 30 amp shore power cord connects to it. There are two- 20 amp circuit breakers inside it with the polarity lamp, and an open space for a third breaker. I assume one breaker is for the A/C and the other is for the other 110 volt power in the trailer. Is this what you are talking about? Is that why my univolt didn't have the circuit board with those fuses? I have a set of fuses in the battery compartment that look original to the coach. They look like the circuits they protect are the battery and the line that feeds from the Univolt. Could that be correct? They are both 30 amp glass fuses from what I can see. Is this all I need to run both AC and DC in the trailer. I'm in the blind here without a wiring diagram. I bought a (exterior low voltage yard lighting) power pack to test the 12 volt system before I install the new Univolt. I want to find out if there are any shorts in the system and save my new Univolt from damage until I am sure all the 12 volt items work. My 110 volt outlets all work. I have no overhead lights though...are they 12 volt only? The A/C seems to work but must have a stretched out or broken belt up on the roof. The fan of the A/C unit inside the trailer won't turn even though I hear what sounds like a compressor motor running in the unit up on the roof. But I don't know about the 12 volt system at all yet since the Univolt has never worked since I got the trailer. Does this sound like a good way to test the wiring for the 12 volt system? Let me know what you think. Ed
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Old 05-05-2006, 10:18 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2
FIRST: Unplug your trailer from the 110v shorepower. Then, if you have a battery in the coach, disconnect the Positive wire to it.

DON'T disconnect your "univolt" until the new one shows up, OR clearly label the VDC outputs as POS and NEG, as they are hooked to the Univolt. The AC is simple. Remove the AC input from your univolt. Hook it up to a 110v outlet that you can buy at any home store like Home Depot. Get an outlet box, cover and the little clampy thing to hold the wire in the box. Your WFCO will plug into that box. Attach the outlet box to a wooden cabinet side or nearby.

When your WFCO arrives it will have a POS and NEG terminal. Attach the VDC wires you labeled POS and NEG to the appropriate terminals. Run a copper wire from the chassis ground on the WFCO and screw the other end into the skin or handy exposed metal surface.

You're done. I'm about to do all of this tomorrow or Sunday and I'll post a photographic account online here and on the Wally Wiki.
Actually it's already gone,
BTW what VDC mean,
I will be happy to see your pics, because as far as I remember, there's a lot of wire plugged to the univolt, gray, pink, blue, brown, white, black, red, small gauge red with fuse, and the same in black... lot of fun
I am in touch with best converter and I will proceed soon, and I did notice that WFCO come in 35 amp or 45, or more.
Is the 35 is enough or should I go with the 45 (I asked before, but it was about 30 ou 40 so...)
read you soon
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Old 05-05-2006, 10:23 PM   #35
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Vdc

Dufferin, VDC stands for volts direct current. DC current is like from an AC to DC converter or from your battery. fyi Ed
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Old 05-05-2006, 10:36 PM   #36
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ok,
thanks,
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:25 AM   #37
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"Patio outlet"

Quote:
Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2
Do you mean that there is a new outlet put inline with the patio outlet (the one that's on the outside of the trailer, that you plug your patio lights into)? and the Intellipower is plugged into that new outlet?
The curbside compartment where my Univolt once sat has a two-outlet 110VAC socket mounted inside the lockable door, on the right side. I thought this was a standard factory installation for patio lights, but after looking at the schematics I think it may have been custom or PO installed--very sanitary job, BTW. The Intelipower 9160 has a 3-wire plug that I simply plugged into one of the the sockets. I ran the Charge Wizard control up to the headboard and attached it with self-stick backing so that I don't have to go outside to see what's charging.

Keeping the original fuse panel when you trash the old Univolt is pretty sensible. It makes the job of figuring out where the wires go much easier. The wires are mostly stiff copper, and I just have my fuse panel hanging in space by their support.
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:55 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGED52
John, I have a circuit breaker box at the rear of my trailer behind the rear access panel. The 30 amp shore power cord connects to it. There are two- 20 amp circuit breakers inside it with the polarity lamp, and an open space for a third breaker. I assume one breaker is for the A/C and the other is for the other 110 volt power in the trailer. Is this what you are talking about? Is that why my univolt didn't have the circuit board with those fuses? I have a set of fuses in the battery compartment that look original to the coach. They look like the circuits they protect are the battery and the line that feeds from the Univolt. Could that be correct? They are both 30 amp glass fuses from what I can see. Is this all I need to run both AC and DC in the trailer. I'm in the blind here without a wiring diagram. I bought a (exterior low voltage yard lighting) power pack to test the 12 volt system before I install the new Univolt. I want to find out if there are any shorts in the system and save my new Univolt from damage until I am sure all the 12 volt items work. My 110 volt outlets all work. I have no overhead lights though...are they 12 volt only? The A/C seems to work but must have a stretched out or broken belt up on the roof. The fan of the A/C unit inside the trailer won't turn even though I hear what sounds like a compressor motor running in the unit up on the roof. But I don't know about the 12 volt system at all yet since the Univolt has never worked since I got the trailer. Does this sound like a good way to test the wiring for the 12 volt system? Let me know what you think. Ed
Ed, I'll post a picture of my DC fuseblock/breakout panel later today. Since yours is only a year later than mine, they may be similiar. Does your Univolt, the original, look like this?
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Old 05-06-2006, 09:01 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dufferin
Actually it's already gone,
BTW what VDC mean,
I will be happy to see your pics, because as far as I remember, there's a lot of wire plugged to the univolt, gray, pink, blue, brown, white, black, red, small gauge red with fuse, and the same in black... lot of fun
I am in touch with best converter and I will proceed soon, and I did notice that WFCO come in 35 amp or 45, or more.
Is the 35 is enough or should I go with the 45 (I asked before, but it was about 30 ou 40 so...)
read you soon
All of those wires mean that my re-fit isn't going to help you as much as I had hoped. I have only three wires coming out, two DC Positive and one DC negative. I've seen newer univolts have those other wires, but I do not know what they are for. I just saw on the thread I started, Univolt Replacement Wiring, where there is some discussion starting about these extra wires. Hopefully someone will chime in with the answer.
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Old 05-07-2006, 01:00 AM   #40
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Univolt

John, My univolt had no panel inside it as yours shows. The wires thru the side wall were feeds from the converter directly to the large gauge + and -wires going to the the breaker box in the rear of the trailer from what I can tell. There was no panel board with any of the fuses or DC+ or DC-connectors on it inside the my univolt. From your picture it looks like this panel board was mounted in the front of your univolt behind the cover that said univolt on it....Mine has nothing there only wire nuts, and wiring, that goes through the inside divider metal plate, and behind that are the rectifiers and the converter. I guess this panel board must've been removed from my univolt by a PO for some reason. Shouldn't my overhead lights work on AC without the DC Converter? I wish I had an electrical schematic of the wiring for this trailer. It sounds like I'm gonna need that panel board though. Sure hope I can find one. If anyone has one please let me know here or PM me. Ed
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