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Old 06-26-2022, 01:44 PM   #21
Rivet Master
 
2019 25' Flying Cloud
Sequim , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 525
Blog Entries: 2
Is your jack the OEM version (may be Barker from OH). That was my original jack on a previous AS (23 FB FC). I blew a limit switch and Barker was terrifically helpful in sending me a replacement at my next camp across the country. The slow blow fuses are difficult to find. I carried a spare. Mine was in-line in the battery box.

I replaced my OEM jacks on that AS and my current one with a more powerful Husky jack. Husky has an inline reset switch near the battery instead of a fuse. Perhaps the original owner replaced the jack with a different brand with different fusing?

As others have said, the manual is your friend. And I also found manual (no pun intended) cranking to be much easier than I expected.

One of many learning adventures you are likely yo have while Airstreaming!

Wishing you safe and interesting travels. Let us know where/if you find the fuse!
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Old 08-06-2022, 08:21 PM   #22
1 Rivet Member
 
2006 30' Classic
Kincardine , Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 14
Thumbs up Problem found re jack breaker

Hi all,

Just an update for "the next guy" who might stumble across this thread; my jack ceased working and it has taken me time to learn the ins and outs of the 12v power distribution panel. Last time I checked in, I was trying to figure out which breaker was blown. Here is what I figured out:

a) I needed to put the neutral end of my tester on the big white bus bar that held the negative cables from the batteries and then put the probe end on the side of the breaker where power would come out (i.e. the side with the wire leading to the equipment); I know this will be old stuff to many but when you have not done it, not always obvious; I was using one of those probe testers that is like a screw driver with a pointy end that has a light bulb in the handle. If there is power, the handle lights up.

b) once I figured out that only one breaker did not have power on the "load" side of the breaker, I called the dealership to see how to take out the breaker; while I was waiting for them to call back (the parts person did not know), I decided to just try myself; I thought I would just take the nut off of both sides of the breaker (I highlighted them in the picture) as I thought maybe that would help get the breaker out.

- but while starting on that, I noticed that this breaker did indeed have a little button on top of it...so I pressed it and the breaker was reset; eureka! I had not noticed this before because I had been trying to find a reset on some of the other breakers and when they are working right, they do not protrude

c) also found out that both the panel cover are wrong as to which breaker the jack is on; the panel says it should be on post #6 on the bottom (there is no post 6) and the manual says it should be on post #5 (there is a post 5 but no wire running from it); the jack turned out to be on post #4. It has 2 wires attached to the it (the load side that is) so I am wondering if someone already blew a breaker and instead of replacing it, they just put two circuits on one breaker (or maybe AS does that anyhow). So I have relabelled my book and the panel stickers for now (with masking tape as I might fix this us). Also, I wrote down that the reset button for the top row of breakers is on the bottom (the ones that I was checking to no avail) and the reset button for the bottom row is on the top.

So my last question is, if I actually test post 5 and that breaker is not working, how does one get these breakers out of the panel? Do you have to remove the nuts from both posts and then maybe the breaker comes off somehow?

Also, that big red wire with the blue connector on it - that is the hot wire coming from the battery bus cable back by the converter. It is the "feed" to the distribution panel.

Thanks all.
Albert
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Old 08-07-2022, 11:50 AM   #23
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2017 28' Flying Cloud
2014 25' FB Flying Cloud
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Georgetown (winter)Thayne (summer) , Texas & Wyoming
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,689
Glad you worked thru the issues! I have a question for the group on the power jacks; has anyone replaced with a "better" model? If so, which one and why? Also, how easy is it to change out? Mine is 5 years old, and I always feel it is on it's last legs when using last year or so...works, but...don't want to get stuck.
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Old 08-07-2022, 03:06 PM   #24
Rivet Master
 
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville , New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,165
Husky Super Brute 5000 seems to be the go to replacement. A little slower, quieter and many love the remote.

Here is an install thread.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f45...-a-221402.html
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Old 08-07-2022, 04:07 PM   #25
Rivet Master
 
2017 19' International
Tallahassee , Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 938
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgsteele View Post
You need that hand crank! My in-line fuse holder totally came apart on my 23fb in a state park two states away. The hand crank was so effortless that I used it for the next week on the way home and replaced the fuse holder when I returned. I’m 70 and not a physical guy. It was easier than the stabilizer crank.
True this.

My jack wouldn't work and I dug out the hand crank and, wow, worked like a champ!

I anticipated a struggle, but it turned easily. Hard part was finding where I had stored it.

I got the jack working by giving the switch a couple of blasts of contact cleaner.
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