Power Cord Extension?

[melbel]

Hello,

We're brand new to this... we just purchased a '97 34' Excella.

We are trying to hook into power at a pole barn where we are unable to get the trailer close enough to reach with the stock power cord...

Question is: Can we/should we go to the electrical supply house and get an extension cord to tie into a breaker panel via a pig tail and switch ends to be weather proof? If so, what gauge is reccomended and what length of cord is safe?

Thank you,

Nathan

[dznf0g]

There are ready made extensions available at many RV stores or Camping world.

[BIGED52]

Originally Posted by melbel

Hello,

We're brand new to this... we just purchased a '97 34' Excella.

We are trying to hook into power at a pole barn where we are unable to get the trailer close enough to reach with the stock power cord...

Question is: Can we/should we go to the electrical supply house and get an extension cord to tie into a breaker panel via a pig tail and switch ends to be weather proof? If so, what gauge is reccomended and what length of cord is safe?

Thank you,

Nathan

Nathan, First of all you need a 30 amp outlet to plug into or you may have circuit breaker issues when you power up the trailer.
Second, NEVER make-up a drop cord unless you are fully quailified to and know what you are doing. (Can you say fire hazard)?
Third, As stated above there are places where you can purchase a ready to go drop cord that is properly rated to handle the load and power usage for your trailer.
Last but not least.... Welcome to the forums. Let us know how you make out on this issue. Happy Trails, Ed

[Dan@LED4RV]

To add a little to what has already been said, the longer the run on power cords the greater the voltage drop and you run the risk of heating up the plug on the trailer. That is the shore power cord. If you go this route you are going to want to be very selective as to what you have on. It is not good for the AC motor to run on a low voltage. The refer and furnace will be fine, plus light when your out there.

If you end up getting a small box with a 30 amp service (this is the best way to go) from your main breaker box, make sure whoever hooks it up understands it is only 110volts. I can't tell you how many times I've heard the installer thought it was 220volt and all kinds of things had to be replaced, starting with the converter and going down the line.

Dan

[kennethowens]

Distance please....

6 awg is a safe size

you gonna run the A/c or just lights and small stuff?

[Kevin245]

Originally Posted by Dan@LED4RV

To add a little to what has already been said, the longer the run on power cords the greater the voltage drop... It is not good for the AC motor to run on a low voltage.

Here's a link to wikipedia about voltage drop. There's also a handy calculator link in the "External Links" part of their page.

Voltage drop - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Voltage Drop Calculator

Good Luck,

Kevin

[Ag&Au]

What you really should do, if this is an installation to be in use for as long as you have the trailer, is to hire a licensed electrician to install a remote outlet near the trailer similar to what you would find in an RV park and route power to it either underground or overhead in accordance with local code.

The use of extension cords over long distances across the ground for an indefinite period is simply not a safe practice for a number of reasons and may be a violation of local codes. It is not going to look good when the insurance adjuster shows up if you have a problem.

Yes, you can save money by taking short cuts, but it may cost a lot more in the long run if something goes wrong.

Regards,

Ken

[melbel]

Thanks for the help on the electrical... I got the supplies from the local electrical supply house with proper wire sizing and waterproof box.

Now Im having difficulty with the furnace and hot water heater. I'm following start-up protocol and get nothing on the furnace. The hot water heater is producing only a little luke warm water. Any ideas out their? I plan to take the trailer to a RV repair shop tomorrow if I can't figure this out before then...

Thanks,

Nathan

[olddog299]

Furnace probably has a stuck sail switch - unless you are really comfortable working with LP gas, I suggest you let the folks at the RV place or the local Suburban Gas Company check the furnace out for you. Hot water heater may be a case of the by-pass being turned on or an air lock has occurred. Again I offer the opinion you have a certified technician check the systems for proper operation. Ask, before you make the appointment, if you can observe and ask questions. If not - look for a different service organization.