Please review my wiring diagram.

[Serf27]

Ok great, thanks.
This eliminates having to mount the inverter away from the batteries, excess switches and no chance for inverter and converter to be in the system at the same time.

I am going to mount the inverter in the big battery box I built. So the 12v wires going to the inverter will be maybe 10” long at most.
What gauge wire do you recommend there?

I think the cord going from inverter to breaker box while driving will probably be 1’ long. I will just live with it. A standard extension cord gauge is fine to use here?

You did mention ground bonding.
Will there be any issues connecting the inverter to the breaker box? Since the inverter will receive 12v ground that is grounded to the trailer frame and the breaker box will also be ground to the frame?

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Ok great, thanks.
This eliminates having to mount the inverter away from the batteries, excess switches and no chance for inverter and converter to be in the system at the same time.

I am going to mount the inverter in the big battery box I built. So the 12v wires going to the inverter will be maybe 10” long at most.
What gauge wire do you recommend there?

I think the cord going from inverter to breaker box while driving will probably be 1’ long. I will just live with it. A standard extension cord gauge is fine to use here?

You did mention ground bonding.
Will there be any issues connecting the inverter to the breaker box? Since the inverter will receive 12v ground that is grounded to the trailer frame and the breaker box will also be ground to the frame?

The 1' cord from the inverter to the shore power inlet should be okay, just make sure that it's property anchored and can't drag in the event it comes loose while underway.

What size cord between the 120v output of the inverter and the shore power inlet? It needs to be big enough to handle the full power output of the inverter. I'd probably go up a size from there.

Cable size between the inverter and the batteries? Follow the manual for the inverter. That should give you specifics on this. Be sure to include a fuse as well according to the instructions - it will prevent the inverter from trying to pull too much from the batteries in the event something goes kaplooey.

Neural/ground bonding...Most inverters take care of this internally. Check the manual to be sure. If you're plugging it in manually and the inverter is bonded internally you'll be okay.

[Serf27]

Originally Posted by richard5933

The 1' cord from the inverter to the shore power inlet should be okay, just make sure that it's property anchored and can't drag in the event it comes loose while underway.

What size cord between the 120v output of the inverter and the shore power inlet? It needs to be big enough to handle the full power output of the inverter. I'd probably go up a size from there.

Cable size between the inverter and the batteries? Follow the manual for the inverter. That should give you specifics on this. Be sure to include a fuse as well according to the instructions - it will prevent the inverter from trying to pull too much from the batteries in the event something goes kaplooey.

Neural/ground bonding...Most inverters take care of this internally. Check the manual to be sure. If you're plugging it in manually and the inverter is bonded internally you'll be okay.

The full output of the inverter would be 1000watts..?

Most inverters I’ve seen come with wire, but the wire looked thin, may just be the photos used in listings. I’ll read the manual once I get one though to see if anything else is recommended.

For the inverter neutral/ground.
Is this why some inverters have a neutral lug along with +/- and some just have the +/- lugs?

I am assuming the fuses on the physical inverter on some of the ones I’ve seen are there to protect the inverter and not the batteries. So I’d add an inline fuse on the 12v+ wire going to the inverter.

Thanks.

[Serf27]

Hello everyone, I was working on wiring today and have 3 questions.

The breaker box sticker shows (I think this is what it means) both ground and neutral are on the same bar in the box.
This is wrong or possibly for a house and I should continue with keeping the ground and neutral separate right? I posted a photo below.

I think I want to add wiring/receptacle for a future Air conditioner unit.
I have the 20/20 split breaker and the 30amp main breaker.
If I switch the 30amp breaker for a 30/20 breaker, will the 30amp half of the breaker still work as the main breaker?
If so, how will it work as a main breaker if the 30/20 share the same slot?

Last question, this photo shows how the shore power and jumper wire are to be installed, right?

[richard5933]

Correct - neutral and ground wires should NOT be connected to the same bus bar. That is only done at the point of origin, which in this case is back in the building or pedestal you're plugging into.

You should install an additional bus bar for the ground wires. I would put it across the narrow end of the box away from the breakers so you have room to work. It will be tight, but a pair of needle nose pliers will make it easy to get the wires where they belong.

Make sure that the current bus bar for the neutrals is insulated and not connected to the metal box. You can check this with a continuity checker.

[Serf27]

Thanks for confirming.

I checked for continuity between the neutral bar and the box and there is none, so it’s good there.

I have a negative bus bar I will also add to the box.

What about the 30/20 amp breaker?

It was mentioned I could use a 30/20 breaker to give me 3 20amp breakers, but not sure if the 30amp half will still work as the main breaker since it’s split.

Would it be wired like this to serve as the main breaker:
Hot input wire from shore power goes to screw terminal on the 30amp half of 30/20 breaker.
Jumper wire is used on the rear of the breakers to power the second 20/20 breaker.
Hot output wires going to outlets go to the screw terminals on the the 20s?

[richard5933]

Looks like in the last photo you posted you switched the input & output ends of the 30-amp breaker. Hard to tell from the photo though.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Thanks for confirming.

I checked for continuity between the neutral bar and the box and there is none, so it’s good there.

I have a negative bus bar I will also add to the box.

What about the 30/20 amp breaker?

It was mentioned I could use a 30/20 breaker to give me 3 20amp breakers, but not sure if the 30amp half will still work as the main breaker since it’s split.

Would it be wired like this to serve as the main breaker:
Hot input wire from shore power goes to screw terminal on the 30amp half of 30/20 breaker.
Jumper wire is used on the rear of the breakers to power the second 20/20 breaker.
Hot output wires going to outlets go to the screw terminals on the the 20s?

Yes that is right the 30/20 breaker is connected where it plugs into the box, effectively the same as the jumper wire connecting the 30 or 30/20 to the 20/20 breaker.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by richard5933

Looks like in the last photo you posted you switched the input & output ends of the 30-amp breaker. Hard to tell from the photo though.

Yes that is standard, at least on 30 amp trailers since it is a sub-panel and no place for a normal main breaker.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by Wazbro

Yes that is standard, at least on 30 amp trailers since it is a sub-panel and no place for a normal main breaker.

Not sure I understand - which are you saying is standard? The way he's got it shown in the picture?

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by richard5933

Not sure I understand - which are you saying is standard? The way he's got it shown in the picture?

Yes. That is the way my 88 is, which is stock. Although mine came with 2 single breakers (a 30amp and a 20amp) and a double breaker (a 20/20). With shore power going into what is normally considered the output side of the 30 amp breaker.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by Wazbro

Yes. That is the way my 88 is, which is stock. Although mine came with 2 single breakers (a 30amp and a 20amp) and a double breaker (a 20/20). With shore power going into what is normally considered the output side of the 30 amp breaker.

Is that done to simplify the wiring and make the jumpers shorter? Or is there a functional reason with the breaker?

[Serf27]

From what I understand, the 30amp breaker is wired almost “backwards” so shore power only goes into the 30 amp breaker and the jumper wire between both breakers is not hot if the 30amp breaker is switched off…?

Would the 30/20 amp breaker be wired the same way?
Hot wire from shore power goes to 30amp screw terminal?
Here is a photo of what I’m describing.

I also got the self resetting circuit breaker. It looks tiny but I’ve never used one so I’m not sure how big or small it is supposed to be.
Next to a 10¢ dime for reference.

Thanks.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by Serf27

From what I understand, the 30amp breaker is wired almost “backwards” so shore power only goes into the 30 amp breaker and the jumper wire between both breakers is not hot if the 30amp breaker is switched off…?

Would the 30/20 amp breaker be wired the same way?
Hot wire from shore power goes to 30amp screw terminal?
Here is a photo of what I’m describing.

I also got the self resetting circuit breaker. It looks tiny but I’ve never used one so I’m not sure how big or small it is supposed to be.
Next to a 10¢ dime for reference.

Thanks.

That small self-resetting breaker is for the 12v system. The voltage should be stamped on it somewhere.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by Serf27

From what I understand, the 30amp breaker is wired almost “backwards” so shore power only goes into the 30 amp breaker and the jumper wire between both breakers is not hot if the 30amp breaker is switched off…?

Would the 30/20 amp breaker be wired the same way?
Hot wire from shore power goes to 30amp screw terminal?
Here is a photo of what I’m describing.

I also got the self resetting circuit breaker. It looks tiny but I’ve never used one so I’m not sure how big or small it is supposed to be.
Next to a 10¢ dime for reference.

Thanks.

Yes the 30/20 amp breaker would be wired the same way.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by richard5933

Is that done to simplify the wiring and make the jumpers shorter? Or is there a functional reason with the breaker?

There is a functional reason, the 30 amp breaker is the main breaker coming in then the power goes to the branch circuits. A main breaker is required in case someone uses an adapter to plug a 30 amp trailer into a 50 amp outlet to protect the 30 amp cord.

The breaker doesn't care which way the power goes with AC since it actually goes both directions, alternating.

[Serf27]

Ok thanks for the breaker wiring confirmation, so I will get a 30/20 amp breaker so I can be pre wired for an air conditioner unit in the future.

Is the 20amp circuit on the 30/20 breaker still protected by the 30 amp half? Or is not since it’s in the same breaker?

I also asked about the self reset breaker because it looks small compared to the wire gauge going to it.
The description rates it at 30amps with a 6v-48v range.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Ok thanks for the breaker wiring confirmation, so I will get a 30/20 amp breaker so I can be pre wired for an air conditioner unit in the future.

Is the 20amp circuit on the 30/20 breaker still protected by the 30 amp half? Or is not since it’s in the same breaker?

I also asked about the self reset breaker because it looks small compared to the wire gauge going to it.
The description rates it at 30amps with a 6v-48v range.

Yes, the 20amp will still be going through the 30amp exactly like the ones connected with the jumper wire.

That looks like the same self reset breakers I have in my trailer, should be good.

[Serf27]

Great, thanks for confirming.

I am ready to order a converter and inverter.
Before I make decisions, looking for advice on these items I’ve been looking at.

I have been looking at this converter. The brand seems to be decent, as it has its own website. 120VAC to 12VDC-35Amp.
I can’t really find anything else cheaper.

RecPro RV Converter | Multiple Capacities | RV Power Converter | RV Battery Charger | 120VAC to 12VDC | 13V to 16.5V Operating Range (35-Amp) https://a.co/d/4VCMibH


I have found these inverters.
This 1000W is the same brand as the converter-Pure sine wave 1000Watts, priced at $100.

Powermax 1000 Watt Pure Sine Wave DC to AC Power Inverter, Sliver - Metalic, Model: 1000W https://a.co/d/5S3lQcn


This inverter costs more but is rated at 1500Watts, it also has a display screen, but unsure of the brand.

aeliussine 1500w Inverter Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter 12v dc to ac 110v 120v with 2 US Socket, LCD Display and Earth Terminal, for Car RV, Truck, Yacht, and Off Grid Solar Power System (1500w 12v) https://a.co/d/f3MjxUT


Pure sine $90-1000W

DATOUBOSS Pure Sine Wave Inverter 1000W Power Inverter 2000W Peak DC 12V to 110V AC Car Converter Dual AC Outlets Truck/RV Inverter with Remote Control & LCD Display(1000W 12 -110V) https://a.co/d/0pPEO4y

Pure some $139-1500W

DATOUBOSS 1500W Power Inverter 3000W Peak Pure Sine Wave Inverter 12V DC to 110V AC with Dual AC Outlets & LED Display Car Converter https://a.co/d/0ZqcMh6


There is so many options that I’m lost.
Do I stick with the same brand for both converter and inverter?

The inverter would mostly be used for a small fridge at minimum.
Maybe disconnect the fridge for a few minutes while the microwave or air fryer is used.
Would 1000W support an AC unit?
I still have not gotten any batteries.

Any help or recommendations for converter/inverter in these similar price ranges are appreciated.

Thank you.

[richard5933]

Not necessary to get converter and inverter from the same company.

An air conditioner will draw more that a 1,000w inverter will power. It's possible to run one from a large inverter, but you need a big battery bank to power it.

Try and stick with more well known brands if your budget allows.