Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-04-2022, 11:00 PM   #41
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard5933 View Post
They're probably priced at $35.99 because they are well made. They are also covered, which is a big plus in avoiding accidental contact.

You can certainly find cheaper bus bars with a lower capacity but then you limit your system. Remember that a system is only as robust as the weakest component.

Fuse blocks will often include a negative side as well as a positive, and this is to provide a convenient place to connect each circuit's negative side. You can also find fuse blocks with just positive sides.

If you're using a fuse block rather than self-resetting breakers be sure to place it somewhere you can easily get to when a fuse blows. They will.
I will probably end up with the ones you linked.
Seems like those are what you would see in a ďjunction boxĒ.

According to my wiring diagram, I am going to have a self resetting circuit breaker between my batteries, 7 pin trailer connector and the fuse box.

1 end of the 12v circuit breaker goes to the batteries and 7 pin 12v wire, other end was going to my fuse box.

NOW that I am adding a 12v bus bar, would the bus bar go between the fuse box and circuit breaker?

As for the fuse box, I think a negative side on the fuse box would actually be better, so I can ground 12v accessories there too.

The plan for fuse box and all other connection location is just a wooden box in front of the trailer with folding doors.
2 batteries, converter, breaker box, fuse box, bus bars, and circuit breaker.
All wires in the trailer are leading up to 1 corner where the fridge will slide into, then the wires will go under the trailer and back into the ďwooden boxĒ

Currently, I donít have many accessories and canít think of what else Iíll add.

I only have the wiring for:
Water pump
Interior lights
Exterior porch lights
Ceiling vent fans
Radio.

For 110v, Iím adding 2 receptacles.
1 for a tv and a small refrigerator.
A second one for random items; phone chargers and maybe a kitchen air fryer.

I looked at 12v refrigerators and the 110v refrigerators are cheaper.

I currently have no AC unit.

Iím going to use a propane stove top and a propane water heater.
Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2022, 11:34 PM   #42
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
I also have some Romex 12/2 wire and plenty enough for to run from the breaker box to receptacles.
This size should be sufficient to use correct?
Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2022, 02:33 AM   #43
Site Team
 
richard5933's Avatar

 
1994 25' Excella
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 4,348
Images: 5
How many and what type of batteries are you installing?
__________________
Richard
11018
1994 Excella 25 Follow the build on Gertie!
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser (Sold)
richard5933 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2022, 10:30 AM   #44
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard5933 View Post
How many and what type of batteries are you installing?
2 batteries is all Iíll have space for.
I am not sure what kind Iíll use yet.
Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2022, 12:28 PM   #45
Site Team
 
richard5933's Avatar

 
1994 25' Excella
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 4,348
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serf27 View Post
2 batteries is all Iíll have space for.
I am not sure what kind Iíll use yet.
In that case, do some math to make sure that you'll be able to run that 120vac refrigerator for long enough off the batteries through the inverter. The smaller 120vac refrigerators are fairly efficient, but not as efficient as the 12vdc compressor units.

It's important to remember that when you're making 120vac from batteries through the inverter, the inverter will pull approx. 10x the amps from the batteries than the 120vac fridge uses. For instance, if you have a fridge which pulls 1 amp @ 120vac, your inverter will pull 10 amps @ 12vdc from your batteries to make it.

If your batteries are lead acid or AGM and you only have two of them, you have to make sure you'll have enough capacity to run the fridge and whatever else you plan to run between being plugged in to charge. You will be able to charge a little while driving through the 7-wire harness, but not much. Any dry camping you do will rely on the batteries alone to keep your fridge going unless you'll be bringing a generator.
__________________
Richard
11018
1994 Excella 25 Follow the build on Gertie!
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser (Sold)
richard5933 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2022, 10:12 PM   #46
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
I currently don’t have plans to dry camp and add an inverter.
Looking at them, it looks like the inverter can be added later on if needed, without having to do a whole bunch of work.
I’m going to look into the best/cost friendly batteries when the time comes to purchase some.

I still haven’t got a fridge, and I was trying to stay all 12v, so I will look at options and consider cost vs AC/DC units.

In the mix of the wiring diagram schematic a few weeks ago, I think someone mentioned running 2 8gauge cables from the truck battery to the trailer batteries while driving. So they could receive a charge.

Thoughts on this?


For now, progress is made little by little on the wiring and the overall trailer. I’ve run wiring needed to a small corner of the trailer interior where the wires will go through the floor and come back out to go into the battery box.

I started looking at switches and this switch panel
made the most sense for each accessory.

Limited-time deal: Nilight 90101E 5Gang Multi-Function 5 Gang Rocker Dual USB Charger + Digital Volmeter +12V Outlet Pre-Wired Switch Panel with Circuit Breakers for RV Car Boat Truck Trailer,2 Years Warranty https://a.co/d/4nbBaTv

I have a similar switch panel in my boat, it works great, but most of the boat accessories don’t pull much power, so I have 1 main power wire feeding the switch panel. That main wire has a switch that powers the entire switch panel.

On the trailer, I plan to do it differently, if the switch panel allows.

My idea is to run a separate power wire to each switch and then continue the power wire to the designated accessory.
The description says 15Amp fuses/pre wiring, so I think the switches will be able to support any 12v accessories I have, the water pump being the biggest one.
What are your thoughts on my idea for that switch panel wiring?

Another question regarding that switch panel.
We have discussed, or you all have told me to run speedster power wires for accessories, to not over los the wires.

What about negative wires?
Could I just run 1 negative wire to that switch panel and splice it to each switch?
Or is it ideal to run a separate negative wire to each switch too?

Thanks.
Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2022, 06:50 PM   #47
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
Looking at my digram and the new switch panel I’ve got, I’m thinking of running 1 single 12V power to this switch panel.
This avoids an excess of wires running to the battery box.

Would a 10 gauge power wire to the switch panel from the + junction box suffice for all the accessories on this panel?
Cargo led lights
Exterior porch lights
Water pump/gauge.

That’s how the boat is wired, but I’m worried about the current the water pump will draw in the trailer.
The info listed for the switch panel shows 15Amp installed fuses and a current rating of 15 amps.

The water pump I’ve ordered is an Auto START/STOP pump with a current draw of 5amps.
Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2022, 07:16 PM   #48
Site Team
 
richard5933's Avatar

 
1994 25' Excella
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 4,348
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serf27 View Post
Looking at my digram and the new switch panel Iíve got, Iím thinking of running 1 single 12V power to this switch panel.
This avoids an excess of wires running to the battery box.

Would a 10 gauge power wire to the switch panel from the + junction box suffice for all the accessories on this panel?
Cargo led lights
Exterior porch lights
Water pump/gauge.

Thatís how the boat is wired, but Iím worried about the current the water pump will draw in the trailer.
The info listed for the switch panel shows 15Amp installed fuses and a current rating of 15 amps.

The water pump Iíve ordered is an Auto START/STOP pump with a current draw of 5amps.
You'll have to do the math and total up the max possible draw you'll have if all the switches are on. Then size the feed wire to that load, including a bit of a buffer.
__________________
Richard
11018
1994 Excella 25 Follow the build on Gertie!
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser (Sold)
richard5933 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2022, 09:01 PM   #49
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
I added it up, including a radio which may or may not be used and I have 16.2 amps.
The main feed wire to the switch panel will probably travel 9-11 ft.

If I round it up to 20 amps, the chart you linked earlier lists 10 gauge wire up to 15ft with a 3% voltage drop.
So I think it’s going to work out.

Thanks.

I am going to attach this main feed wire to the fuse box that will be in the battery box.
I’ll keep the fuses that are supplied with the switch panel in place and use those fuses for the accessories, but I still want the power wire going to it on a fuse, as close to the battery as possible.
Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2022, 02:39 AM   #50
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
Hey everyone, battery box is done and I can finally run wires out of the trailer and into it.

I’ve looked over the digram again.
What is the purpose of the Ground/junction box?

Can I not just use a ground bus bar as the J-Box/main ground bar?

And I see I have a few things going directly to trailer frame/skin ground.
(Breaker box and ground bus bar)
Can I just run the trailer frame/skim ground to the bus bar and attach the breaker box ground to that bus bar?
Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2022, 05:35 AM   #51
Site Team
 
richard5933's Avatar

 
1994 25' Excella
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 4,348
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serf27 View Post
Hey everyone, battery box is done and I can finally run wires out of the trailer and into it.

Iíve looked over the digram again.
What is the purpose of the Ground/junction box?

Can I not just use a ground bus bar as the J-Box/main ground bar?

And I see I have a few things going directly to trailer frame/skin ground.
(Breaker box and ground bus bar)
Can I just run the trailer frame/skim ground to the bus bar and attach the breaker box ground to that bus bar?
My breaker box ground runs directly to the chassis, not the the negative bus bar. Having it go to the bus bar introduces a potential failure point which is unnecessary. In fact, the ground from all my 120v devices run directly to the small grounding bus bar I mounted to the chassis.

The negative bus bar is where all my 12vdc devices connect for the negative side of these circuits. There is a single wire which bonds the negative bus bar to the chassis.
__________________
Richard
11018
1994 Excella 25 Follow the build on Gertie!
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser (Sold)
richard5933 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2022, 05:48 AM   #52
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard5933 View Post
My breaker box ground runs directly to the chassis, not the the negative bus bar. Having it go to the bus bar introduces a potential failure point which is unnecessary. In fact, the ground from all my 120v devices run directly to the small grounding bus bar I mounted to the chassis.

The negative bus bar is where all my 12vdc devices connect for the negative side of these circuits. There is a single wire which bonds the negative bus bar to the chassis.
Ok, thanks.
I’ll run the breaker box ground wire directly to the frame and frame skin.

I remember your ground bar you had showed on the frame.
Why is that?
I have all the Romex wire running to the battery box.


On your outlets, do you ground the Romex cable to the receptacle and to the actual box too?
I have 4 outlets-Each 2 going to 15 amp breakers.

I just saw a video that says you need to ground the actual outlet box also. Video said to split the ground into 2 wires, 1 wire to the receptacle and 1 wire to the outlet box.

I did not do that.

Is this needed?
Hope it makes sense.
Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2022, 06:40 AM   #53
Site Team
 
richard5933's Avatar

 
1994 25' Excella
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 4,348
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serf27 View Post
Ok, thanks.
Iíll run the breaker box ground wire directly to the frame and frame skin.

I remember your ground bar you had showed on the frame.
Why is that?
I have all the Romex wire running to the battery box.


On your outlets, do you ground the Romex cable to the receptacle and to the actual box too?
I have 4 outlets-Each 2 going to 15 amp breakers.

I just saw a video that says you need to ground the actual outlet box also. Video said to split the ground into 2 wires, 1 wire to the receptacle and 1 wire to the outlet box.

I did not do that.

Is this needed?
Hope it makes sense.
Click image for larger version

Name:	20210705_081410.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	349.2 KB
ID:	423521

I used this ground bar on the frame to have a single place to bond my 120vac devices to the chassis. These include the inverter and the converter. There are also grounding wires from a few other devices which require one such as my solar charge controller and DC-to-DC converter. Also on this ground bar is the negative connection between negative bus bar and the chassis.

The only 120vac ground-to-chassis connection that doesn't go into this ground bar is the one for my 120vac breaker box. It is in the rear of the trailer and it didn't make sense to run the wire all the way forward, so it's bonded to the chassis towards the rear of the chassis.

I didn't want to do like Airstream and use a bunch of individual mounting lugs to connect these to the chassis. To mount this ground bar to the chassis I first used a grinder to clean the chassis under it, screwed it down tight, and used electrical grease to keep it from becoming corroded.

The outlets are all wired with 3-conductor Romex cable (hot, neutral, ground). This ground conductor is what grounds the outlets and since all my outlets are in plastic boxes they don't require grounding on their own.

If you are using metal boxes they should be grounded. What I've done is to use the green screw inside them to connect the ground wire from the Romex, and then used a jumper from that same screw to the ground terminal on the outlet. You don't need to run two separate ground wires all the way - just use the outlet's ground point to connect both.

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_8316.jpg
Views:	14
Size:	89.9 KB
ID:	423522
__________________
Richard
11018
1994 Excella 25 Follow the build on Gertie!
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser (Sold)
richard5933 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2022, 12:14 AM   #54
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
Great, thanks for the reply.

I’ll re-do the receptacles in the metal boxes to ground them to the box as well and mount a ground bar to the frame specifically for 120v.

What gauge wire did you use for the 120v input wire to your breaker box?
A video mentioned 8 gauge.
The the wire that feeds the breaker box from shore power.
Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2022, 06:06 AM   #55
Site Team
 
richard5933's Avatar

 
1994 25' Excella
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 4,348
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serf27 View Post
Great, thanks for the reply.

Iíll re-do the receptacles in the metal boxes to ground them to the box as well and mount a ground bar to the frame specifically for 120v.

What gauge wire did you use for the 120v input wire to your breaker box?
A video mentioned 8 gauge.
The the wire that feeds the breaker box from shore power.
Mine is still factory wired. I believe that 8 gauge is sufficient if your trailer is only 30-amp.
__________________
Richard
11018
1994 Excella 25 Follow the build on Gertie!
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser (Sold)
richard5933 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2022, 12:28 PM   #56
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
I have 5 15 amp receptacles and 2 20 amp breakers.
The only box available was a 70amp breaker box.
Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2022, 01:02 PM   #57
Site Team
 
richard5933's Avatar

 
1994 25' Excella
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 4,348
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serf27 View Post
I have 5 15 amp receptacles and 2 20 amp breakers.
The only box available was a 70amp breaker box.
If the box has a 70-amp breaker it's likely set up for two hot inputs @ 120v, making for 240v service.

Normal 30-amp service in a trailer is one hot leg, not two. It's only 120v.

If you are planning to have the trailer run on a 30-amp pedestal (as in, plugging it into a shore power outlet with a 120v 30-amp circuit) then all your AC circuits will need to be on one common leg.

Possibly the box you have can be made to work, but you might have to do a little reconfiguring. Can you post a photo of what the inside of the box looks like?
__________________
Richard
11018
1994 Excella 25 Follow the build on Gertie!
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser (Sold)
richard5933 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2022, 04:54 PM   #58
4 Rivet Member
 
1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
1969 27' Overlander
Walnut Creek , California
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 323
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serf27 View Post
Thanks Richard. I will go with that monitor and wire it up the way Iíve explained.
If the monitor signal wires are too short to run to the inside of the trailer, extending those with the same gauge wire will be no issue, correct?

Gator, yes, the ground wire leaving the batteries to the shunt will go to the batt side and the load side of the shunt will go to the negative bus bar.

What posts make it easier to make it easier and what wires are you talking about?
So youíre running a thicker wire after each connection?

I was planning on using 8 gauge wire for all battery connections/converter and 16 gauge for any 12v accessories leaving the fuse box.
Led lights, radio.
Should I use 10 gauge for the water pump?

Do the batteries need thicker wire or this is fine?

I will be building a wooden box that will house everything. Batteries, converter, fuse box, negative bus bar and breaker box. So any heavy power wire will most likely be about 1-2ft long.

The only wires that will be longer will be 12v accessory wires and the wires from the breaker boxes going to 110v outlets.
Lets start with the 120 volt side. The small panel with two breakers will need a jumper between the two busses since it will be a 240 volt panel. I haven't seen a 120 volt panel since 1969! Although I do have some old ones. So, You will need a main breaker that is sized to your shore power cord. This main breaker protects your shore power cord if you adapt to a larger shore power connection. That is it's only job but it does act as a disconnect inside the trailer which is handy for sure. A standard cord is a 30 amp so the main breaker would be a 30 amp single pole which feeds one of the busses and the #10 jumper feeds the other buss. This leaves only one space for a breaker so a double breaker can be used to get you two circuits. I would use a four space panel. The 30 would be your main breaker and you would have 3 additional breakers for loads. This will allow the installation of a GFCI breaker for the receptacles. Safety First! The neutral bar in the panel will be isolated from ground completely and the ground taken to the chassis lug with a #10 bare solid copper wire. Install two for safety. The 12 volt side looks pretty good.
Jcondon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2022, 10:41 PM   #59
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
Hmm, maybe Iím using the 120v term incorrectly.
I wanted the 30amp box but there was only the 70amp box, I got that and 2 20amp breakers.
I thought if it was rated for up to 70amps, then it should be fine with 2 20amp breakers.

Here is a photo of the box.
Based on a video Iíve seen a few times, this is how it is wired.

The box has 2 spaces for breakers.
The 20amp breakers go in each space.
The hot wire from shore power goes to 1 breaker and then a jumper wire is used to power the other breaker.

The neutral wire from shore power goes to a neutral bar inside the breaker box.

The ground wire from shore power goes to a ground bar on the frame.

Those 3 wires from shore power will go to a connector that is screwed into the side of the box housing all electrical components. That connector will be used to actually connect a cord to shore power.


Now hereís the wiring leaving the breaker box, or the output side.

Hot on 20 amp breaker goes to one GFCI receptacle
Neutral goes to GFCI
Ground goes to GFCI
From this same receptacle, the 3 wires are ran to a second receptacle and then to a third receptacle.

From the 2nd 20 breaker, hot wire goes to another GFCI.
Neutral goes to GFCI
Ground goes to GFCI
Those 3 wires lead to a second receptacle and thatís it.

Thatís how I understood that it is to be wired up.
I added the GFCI last minute for the kitchen and an exterior outlet.

Is it correct or wrong?

Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DDD6C6A3-C791-48B9-9AE8-5F6BE333F609.jpg
Views:	10
Size:	259.3 KB
ID:	423655   Click image for larger version

Name:	CE2F417A-AF58-4880-B435-3C96FD5A8BF2.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	236.1 KB
ID:	423656  

Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2022, 11:40 PM   #60
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 16' Bambi
Currently Looking...
Oak hills , California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 121
Iíve drawn it up.
Iím not sure what type of plug I need on the shore power wire. Thatís why it says ďPlug?Ē
A plug that is compatible with most camp sites is?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	C0DF513C-20AB-4394-A2BC-3D12EC880D07.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	209.4 KB
ID:	423657  
Serf27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Is there a wiring diagram to review prior to installing lithium batteries, and solar TLBNJ27 Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 20 03-12-2022 06:28 PM
Full Monty - Wiring Diagram Review tabney0315 Electronics & Connectivity 24 02-06-2018 11:21 AM
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a '68 safari?...Please HolyRoller Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 1 05-11-2011 10:45 AM
Electrical mayhem, please help, need wiring diagram? starchild Lights - Interior & Exterior 16 04-08-2011 08:42 PM
Wiring Diagram please Drifter Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 1 06-04-2004 07:21 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.