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Old 11-05-2014, 12:03 PM   #1
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Airwave503's Avatar
1961 22' Spaceliner
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 194
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Planning rewire of '61 Safari (22')

So my inside skins are out and I am starting to plan out the rewiring of the whole thing but I'm feeling stuck. Any help and links to useful threads and articles is very welcome. I've been reading a lot but feel overwhelmed. I have just basic household electrical experience.

For the foreseeable future I'm using the camper for mostly weekend trips with longer trips here and there. So I am not living in it and I am not off the grid for months at a time.

Battery location: I am seeing a lot of AS's with the battery on the tongue in a box. Are there advantages to having it here? Is this where they put the battery originally?

Battery type: I've had a AGM battery and it was great, but for my limited needs I am wondering if a Deep Cycle is good enough. I can get a Group 27 at Costco Interstate for $80. If I go with a Deep Cycle I understand I should get a 3 stage trickle charger to keep it healthy...can that be part of the "Univolt"?

Wire: Is it 16 gauge for the 12V lead? What about all the wires for the running lights and brake lights? What about the wire to the brake itself? I hear I should use braided wire, any reason not to source it at my local Home Depot?

I'm thinking to have all LED interior lighting that can always run off the 12V. So the 120V shore power would only be for outlets, the fridge, maybe the H2o heater, and charging the battery.

Some day I would like to add some solar panels, what should I do now to prepare?

Where a good place to get a new breaker box, univolts, converters and stuff like that?


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Old 11-05-2014, 12:09 PM   #2
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Superior , Colorado
Join Date: May 2014
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When I added solar to my trailer, it did not connect to the trailer wiring at all. It was a separate system that connected to the battery only. There may be some more sophisticated "power centers" you could install that will accommodate the addition of solar, though.
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Old 11-17-2014, 07:16 PM   #3
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1961 22' Spaceliner
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 194
Images: 2
Thanks for your response Eric...I think I tried to load too much into this thread. In case it helps anyone else, here are some conclusions I have come to on my own...

Battery location: Since it has to be vented and separate from inside living space I am leaning toward the tongue behind the propane tanks.

Battery type: 2 6V golf cart batteries cause they last longer and you get much more amp hours.

Charging: A 3 way smart charger is a must and will be part of my converter/inverter.

Wire: For 12V you want 10 gauge for the 12V lead and brake controller. Running lights can be 14 or 16 gauge. Still trying to figure out the 120V wire.

Still working on the rest....
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Old 11-17-2014, 10:42 PM   #4
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1967 30' Sovereign
Chiefland , Florida
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
IMHO-use the same wiring inside your trailer you use in the house, usually #12-2 w/ground for 110v. (Home Depot) For the 12 v source automotive or marine wire, it is fine stranded and will not break when bent repeatedly. Your solar can be added at any time later, it only needs to hook to the battery. If you are not doing a lot of Boondocking a single Marine deep cycle will work fine. Mounting on the tongue is a good idea for many reasons, including venting and proper weight distribution. If questioning the wire size to use in a circuit, go with the larger wire, it will carry more current without wasting energy through heat loss. You can use a small house breaker box for the 110v (about 6 or 8 breakers) I use resettable 12v circuit breakers on all the 12v circuits. A later model univolt or it's equivilent will maintain your battery.

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Old 11-17-2014, 11:49 PM   #5
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1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom , California
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i purchased a progressive dynamics converter from "bestconverter dot com" (and am happy with it) . . . they have lots of options, and are pretty helpful.

awesome trailer, awesome year!

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