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Old 01-25-2021, 05:04 PM   #1
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Question Parasitic Draw

I am seeing a parasitic draw on my battery system of 3.8A measured by my Renogy battery monitor and about 2.8A (combined) when I measure with a Fluke 325 clamp multimeter at the positive lead to main the DC distribution hub and the positive lead to the small distribution hub for the jack, brakes, etc.

Is 3.8A about normal for parasitic draw? What are you guys seeing on your trailers?

Thanks!
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Old 01-25-2021, 05:19 PM   #2
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I see much less with my 2013 25FB Flying Cloud. With the use/store relay turned on but everything turned off, the draw is under 1/2 an amp. With the fridge on but not in a cooling cycle, it's around an amp.
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Old 01-25-2021, 06:02 PM   #3
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I am nowhere near that level of draw but I can't tell you exactly how much at the moment will check next time that I'm at that AS...the solar panels handle the system during winter sleep-time...
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Old 01-25-2021, 06:51 PM   #4
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On my 2007 classic, I have 750mA with the radio head in place. 300mA with it out.
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Old 01-25-2021, 07:31 PM   #5
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Just to be clear, I did not have the trailer in store mode. This is with the lights, frig off, radio, etc., but not with everything disconnected. Sorry I did not stipulate that in the post.

I will run that test tomorrow (if the snow is not too deep ).
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Old 01-25-2021, 08:20 PM   #6
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I have done quite a bit of rewiring. In my store mode I have zero parasitic drain.
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Old 01-26-2021, 04:04 AM   #7
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Ditto to Rich


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Old 01-26-2021, 06:16 AM   #8
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Tripple ditto

POI.. I also have a switch on the LP detector.

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Old 01-26-2021, 07:09 AM   #9
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Modern inverters with remote on/off switches draw 0.02 amps, the propane/gas monitor draws 0.05 amps and these connect directly to the battery for most trailers. In use mode, with appliances switched on but not active, total drain is about 0.7 amps for all the controllers etc. This includes the digital audio if you have that, rain guard on fantastic fan, Zip Dee electric Awning, etc.

So what is drawing 2-3 amps? That is about what a cooling fan consumes (inverter, refrigerator, bathroom fan?). If not that, perhaps one of the appliance controllers has gone rouge. Maybe there is an incandescent light on in one of the compartments or closets? Maybe the trailer connector has crud on it and is conducting to the brakes or lights.

Edit: It is possible but unlikely a fan motor is drawing power but not turning due to a locked rotor. ...
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Old 01-26-2021, 12:22 PM   #10
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I shoveled my way out to the trailer this morning to check the circuits.

The draw on the batteries with the store switch off (no juice to the main circuits through the DC hub), was 800 mA. With the switch on, 1.8A. So, the one amp difference must be comprised of the refrigerator PCB, the radio head unit, the hot water PCB, the Magnum battery management (SOC) PCB and the Magnum remote control box. The 800 mA draw must be internal to the Magnum 3212 inverter/charger and internal to the Renogy Smart Lithium batteries (including the battery monitoring screen/BMS).

I am not sure why it read 3.8A yesterday on the Renogy BMS. I must have had something else on, but the 800 mA with the system in store mode is a bit more in line with what you guys are seeing when you consider the equipment I am using.

When the weather is a bit warmer, I will try turning off the shore power and the battery disconnect and see what I get.

Thanks for your thoughts.
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Old 02-01-2021, 07:13 PM   #11
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BTW, I found the radio head was still on. Just turning it to the off position brought my parasitic drain down to 1.3A (from 1.8A). All this little stuff adds up!
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Old 02-01-2021, 08:14 PM   #12
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Is there a heat tape installed, or something that comes on in the cold?
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Old 02-02-2021, 07:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NevadaGeo View Post
Is there a heat tape installed, or something that comes on in the cold?
No. I do not have any heat tape installed or thermostat controlled circuits.
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Old 02-06-2021, 07:19 PM   #14
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Parasitic Draw

Easy way to track parasitic draw, if your trailer uses DC fuses and not breakers, pull the fuse and out your amp meter in the path of the circuit to see the load. Walk every circuit and you can easily find the load down to a circuit. You can also find plug in adapters for your multimeter that connect into the fuse slot.
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Old 02-06-2021, 07:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHouseDreams View Post
Easy way to track parasitic draw, if your trailer uses DC fuses and not breakers, pull the fuse and out your amp meter in the path of the circuit to see the load. Walk every circuit and you can easily find the load down to a circuit. You can also find plug in adapters for your multimeter that connect into the fuse slot.
Thanks. I pretty much found it all. I have a Fluke 325 multimeter and the Renogy Battery Monitor shows real time pull from the batteries, so I just turn things off and on to see the draw. I have progressed quite a bit in the last two weeks to my current understanding. I am OK with what is drawing the energy, but it is still good to know and manage.
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Old 02-12-2021, 12:24 PM   #16
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The Fantastic fan can draw power when off. The rain sensor is the source of the draw. To see if it on look up thru the outer circle going around the fan blade and look for a orange-red glowing light. If it's on the rain sensor is on. On mine if the fan speed switch is at either 1-2-or3 (fan not turning) the glowing light is on despite the main rocker switch being off.
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Old 02-13-2021, 08:20 AM   #17
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I have been experimenting with my new system and the Renogy lithium batteries. These batteries can be turned off from the battery monitor. Zero parasitic draw and zero lose of SOC. It is a nice feature!
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Old 02-13-2021, 08:41 AM   #18
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I believe the subwoofer will also draw power, whether the radio is on or not.
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Old 02-13-2021, 09:01 AM   #19
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One thing we have learned on this forum is there is no certainty as to how Airstream has connected loads, from year-to-year and even within a year. In some cases, yes the subwoofer, in others no. I never heard of the Fantastic Fans being hot with the STORE switch in STORE, but I suppose some newer trailers could be that way. It used to be that in STORE the only connected loads were the propane detector, the tongue jack, the trailer brakes, and in some cases the radio/subwoofer. It seems today, an owner needs to trace this out on his/her own.
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Old 02-13-2021, 09:26 AM   #20
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So true Larry, great observation, I need something to keep reminding myself of that.
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