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Old 09-20-2017, 08:27 PM   #21
Rivet Master
 
2011 22' Sport
Portland , Oregon
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Personally I installed the EMS-HW30C in my 30-amp service trailer, in a 50-amp trailer I would go with the EMS-HW50C. Over just surge protection it also includes detecting low voltage that could cause A/C compressors to fail. I'm guessing that any new FC has a lot of whizbang gadgetry that is sensitive to improper voltage.

Progressive Industries has a chart that compares the protection features: http://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/439d5a...05a49eb5bf.pdf

I did the install myself on my Sport 22FB, it probably took 30-40 minutes. Just make sure you are disconnected from power, put your battery in store mode and make sure inverters, etc are disabled...and then confirm that no voltage is present in the distribution box before you start. To make it easier you will need appropriate wire for your system (30 vs 50 amp), a wire cutter, a wire stripper (or whatever method you prefer), a screw driver (ideally one with square bits for the electrical connections), a small power drill and some bits...and 4 screws to anchor the box into place (3/4-1" length should be ok, but nothing too long as you might not know what is under the floor).

Any AS that is 23' or shorter has 30-amp service and is pretty easy to work with, its only 3 wires: white, black, ground (bare copper). You will need to buy a piece of Romex 10/2 (10 gauge, 2 wires + bare ground), I think I bought 5' which was overkill as I had left over and still used plenty to give me room to work. In my case I just took the floor out of the closet (4 screws), and the 4 screws that held the power distribution panel in place.

Remove the black wire from the 30-amp "main" breaker, remove the white wire from the neutral bus bar, remove the ground wire from the ground bus bar. Then loosen the clamp that braces the wire on the back of the distribution panel, pull the wire out (may need to guide it a bit with needle nose plyers to keep it from yanking on the other wires in the box). Then you feed that wire into the EMS, connect the wires to the appropriate lugs. Crimp the grounding terminal on, screw it to the grounding lug. Repeat with a new piece of wire on the output side of the EMS.

Use the original wire as a guide on how much to strip for inside of the distribution box, then feed those wires back through to the panel. Reconnect the black to the main breaker, white to neutral bar, ground to ground bar.

Tighten all clamps to make sure wires are secure. At this point I connected the remote display and connected the trailer to shore power (30 to 15 amp adapter in my case) to verify it worked, read the error code if it isn't E0...if nothing lights up, make sure you actually connected everything correctly and tightened all lugs (disconnecting any power before ever touching a screw driver to anything!).

If it works, then use a couple of short screws to anchor the box to an open area of the floor...screw the cover on. Screw your power distribution box back in. I then drilled a small hole just big enough for the telephone cable plug (I made the hole smaller than would really fit and then squared it out with a smaller bit to keep the hole small as possible)...and then feed the telephone cable through, connect it...slide the remote display so that it covers 90% of the hole and presses against the cable tightly and screw it into place.

In the case of 50-amp, you will need to buy a piece of 8/3 romex (3 wires + ground) to reach from the surge box to the distribution panel. You remove the 4 wires from the panel (2 into the main breaker, noting which color goes where, 1 neutral from neutral bar, and 1 ground from the ground bar. You then connect those into the EMS box, connect your new wire to the output side of the box and connect back into the same places you removed the wire.

The hardwired ones actually aren't as expensive because they don't require a weather proof box or plug/receptacle. Obviously if you aren't comfortable with the task you shouldn't start it, but with care and paying attention to the coloring of all wiring and making sure you never cross colors its pretty straight forward. I have a lot of electrical experience, so perhaps I am biased to thinking its easier than it is.
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:29 PM   #22
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2011 22' Sport
Portland , Oregon
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The one thing I do wish is that Progressive Industries included a sticker with the error codes on it. I printed my own with a label printer on vinyl tape and stuck that inside the door of my distribution panel. The only include a small paper reference card and the manual, which will never be where you thought they were. Really shocking (no pun intended) that they couldn't include a simple sticker to attach somewhere in proximity of the remote display.
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:32 AM   #23
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Newbie question about surge protection

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xipper View Post
The one thing I do wish is that Progressive Industries included a sticker with the error codes on it. I printed my own with a label printer on vinyl tape and stuck that inside the door of my distribution panel. The only include a small paper reference card and the manual, which will never be where you thought they were. Really shocking (no pun intended) that they couldn't include a simple sticker to attach somewhere in proximity of the remote display.


Like this you mean?

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3888.JPG
Views:	125
Size:	530.8 KB
ID:	295339

If it's for the remote, it does seem strange they would not provide one.
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Old 09-22-2017, 11:50 AM   #24
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2017 26' Flying Cloud
Tampa , Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhereStream View Post
Progressive I (and I assume Surge Guard) has two types ... one that checks polarity and such, plus surge; the other does something regarding low voltage and perhaps other checks as well.

"The other" costs about double the first.

What does the more high-powered version do, and which do the wise folk of Airforums use?
On my MH I had the less expensive version. About $120. I sold it with the MH. I never had damage so either it worked or I didn't have a big enough surge.
For the AS I bought the EMS-50 with the rain cover. Yeah, it was a painful purchase, but it has more features as you mentioned, and TWICE the surge protection (88,000 joules vs 44,000)
Now I'm buying the lock for it too!
How about this?
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8...rds=cable+lock
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Old 09-22-2017, 11:52 AM   #25
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2017 19' International
Tallahassee , Florida
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Not intending to hijack your thread, RandB, so I hope you don't mind if I ask ... anyone have experience with this Camco surge protector?

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Camco/CAM55301.html

This one is said to do more than the basic surge protection and connection check. It also guards against voltage fluctuations.

Less costly than the Progressive Industry model.
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Old 09-22-2017, 01:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhereStream View Post
Not intending to hijack your thread, RandB, so I hope you don't mind if I ask ... anyone have experience with this Camco surge protector?

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Camco/CAM55301.html

This one is said to do more than the basic surge protection and connection check. It also guards against voltage fluctuations.

Less costly than the Progressive Industry model.


I'll fess up - I have one of those and a Progressive as well. Why? I thought the Progressive sacrificed itself on a trip once (I was mistaken) and ran to the closest RV store to get whatever they had - and that's the one they had. I use it on pedestals where the Progressive isn't flexible enough and I cheat at one Campground that just doesn't have enough power - my Progressive shuts off all the time and I can't run the AC - I know it's counterintuitive a - you have these things to protect your electronics - but I think the threshold is just a bit lower for low voltage and no damage to the AC so...I roll with it [emoji23]

It has never shut off my power so honestly, I can't say how well it does its job - where the Progressive Industries one CLEARLY does its job well....still, I've had no harm with the Camco...

Good luck!
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Old 09-22-2017, 09:57 PM   #27
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2011 22' Sport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Llando88 View Post
Like this you mean?

Attachment 295339

If it's for the remote, it does seem strange they would not provide one.


Exactly. The hardwired kit doesn’t include any info to put next to the remote display. It came with the paper manual and a small business card piece with the error codes. I emailed them with the suggestion, hopefully they follow through.
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Old 09-23-2017, 02:14 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xipper View Post
Exactly. The hardwired kit doesn’t include any info to put next to the remote display. It came with the paper manual and a small business card piece with the error codes. I emailed them with the suggestion, hopefully they follow through.


I agree, that would be a great product improvement.

I'd likely do the same as you did. Reminder cards are great.

My wife says my memory is going, and I can't remember the other thing.
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Old 09-25-2017, 03:44 PM   #29
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You want to not only get the surge protector but the polarity tester as well. It costs more, but my brother had a polarity issue at one site and the polarity tester saved his hide. I bit the bullet and bought one I plugged in and then got a lock. It’s expensive, but less than the damages.
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