New reasonable priced lithium system install.

[Sophiehaus]

I just installed two new Battle Born 75ah lithium batteries in my stock battery box on my 2018 25’ FC. I also installed a new WFCO 50 amp lithium converter and a new Atkinson Electronics lithium 40 amp MPT solar controller. I was able to keep the factory installed Sun Explorer II-40 solar monitor and the factory installed 1000 watt inverter. I also have two factory installed Zamp solar panels. I completed the job for $1750 and it works great. I also cut off the negative and positive post lugs (terminals) and crimped on new copper ring lugs since the BB batteries do not have posts.

[Mako]

Nice work. Thinking of doing the same with 2 GC2 100 AH BB's in our GT. Appreciate the pic... Will help with all of the components I will need to purchase.

[BigAl]

Nice job.

[Sol_Elf]

Great job!


If you don't mind what was your reason for not using two 100 Ah 12V GC2 instead?


I'm planning to do the same upgrade as you using the existing outside box to place the batteries.



Thanks

[DCPAS]

Did you elect not to include a smart shunt? I am not sure how needed it is, but the other installations seem to include one.

[Silvr_Bullet]

The Smart Shunt is not going to make the batteries more efficient but it will provide important information about the state of charge, amps used, remaining etc.. so it’s great technology available on your smartphone within and a foot or so of your trailer.

[Msowers22]

Some say you don’t need to replace the converter since the the solar controller will provide the q4.4 volts. True?

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by Msowers22

Some say you don’t need to replace the converter since the the solar controller will provide the q4.4 volts. True?

You do need to replace the converter if you want to charge your batteries with the correct voltage when you are connected to shore power.

Dan

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by Msowers22

Some say you don’t need to replace the converter since the the solar controller will provide the q4.4 volts. True?

I guess that may work for some but who’s in the sun ‘always’? A non-lithium charger will not get your lithiums a full charge. Why spend all that $ and not get the full benefit of lithium.

[Msowers22]

It’s my understanding that the solar system is independent of the converter so the converter can do the lifting to 80% and the solar can complete the balance. Usually the trailer is getting some sun.

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by Msowers22

It’s my understanding that the solar system is independent of the converter so the converter can do the lifting to 80% and the solar can complete the balance. Usually the trailer is getting some sun.

Good point. Trying it to see how it works is free and the only way to find out if it works is to try it. I would try it before spending any money on a new converter.

Dan

[AZ camper]

Originally Posted by Sol_Elf

Great job!


If you don't mind what was your reason for not using two 100 Ah 12V GC2 instead?


I'm planning to do the same upgrade as you using the existing outside box to place the batteries.



Thanks

My main reason was cost. The 75 ah batteries were $650 each vs. $850 each for the 100 ah batteries. The 75 ah batteries basically doubled my ah over the original 80 ah LifeLine agm batteries.

[AZ camper]

Originally Posted by DCPAS

Did you elect not to include a smart shunt? I am not sure how needed it is, but the other installations seem to include one.

Hello:

No I didn't need the shunt so I elected not to use it. Less expense, less work, and less things to go wrong. Plus I didn't need it for the system to work.

[AZ camper]

Originally Posted by Msowers22

Some say you don’t need to replace the converter since the the solar controller will provide the q4.4 volts. True?

That is true. I replaced my converter because it failed anyway. That is what drove me to do the upgrade. Also a proper lithium converter has a better charge profile for lithium batteries and is more efficient. BB batteries have a built in Battery Management System, BMS, so they are protected from most adverse conditions and mismatched charge profiles. My new lithium WFCO converter costs me $189 on Amazon and was extremely easy to install.

[AZ camper]

Originally Posted by Msowers22

It’s my understanding that the solar system is independent of the converter so the converter can do the lifting to 80% and the solar can complete the balance. Usually the trailer is getting some sun.

I think you what you say is true. I also upgraded my solar controller to a one that has a lithium charge profile. The existing solar controller was only for agm batteries.

[Turtleherder]

I am in process of going with Renogy Lithiums to replace my dead AGMs in my 50 amp 2018 Globetrotter & have a question. Is the solar controller mounted inside the DC Power box under the Inverter? Looks like that is where all the wires are going...... Any suggestions on gaining access without removing the front beds & table and Can I get by for awhile with only replacing the AC Power Converter? If I have to go through the dismantling of the beds, I may as well replace the Inverter while I am at it.

[SandKSmith]

Something to think about: I did much the same. Bought two Lion UT1300’s from Costco a couple of years ago. Two years now and I have no complaints. Looking recently at small DC-DC chargers as we’re heading to places this summer where there are trees and the sun doesn’t shine bright EVERY day….( like here in AZ). I found the current draw on my new batteries blew the 30A fuse on the 12VDC line on the 7 pin connector. It’s been a couple of years and I never knew and saw no I’ll effects. The solar keeps the charge up just fine. An isolated DC-DC charger will keep that from happening, prevent draw while still connected to the truck, and provide a charge while traveling on cloudy days. All that said, you might have a blown fuse on that circuit.
Steve

[SNR Brown]

Sounds like you were pretty capable doing it on your own, and would appreciate knowing where you found a wiring diagram or any other support/direction. I am ready to do this, but would appreciate a good diagram…

[Turtleherder]

Sorry for being slow to respond, Finally got back to the project! Got the Renogy 100amp batteries installed in the battery box along with a Victron Smart Shunt. A shout out of Thanks to Rich at The Airstream Life Store for his video of his install...... it answered a lot of questions & saved me from a couple mistakes. Victron has plenty of wiring diagrams to help with the different configurations and applications. The Smart Shunt is simple to connect & works great..... Victron has a wealth of information on their website and great videos. Next, my 2018 Airstream had the older WFCO charge converter not compatible with Lithium so I replaced it with the newer one that you have to install a short jumper wire. It is located behind the power control center...... It is just laying on top of a rats nest of wiring behind the panel.!!! I hope no Anal Electric Engineer tackles this upgrade..... they could not stand seeing such a mess of wiring. It is a simple swap after you pry the existing controller out of the maze. My Globetrotter has factory Solar installed , so I had to swap out the solar charge controller which also is not compatible with Lithium. This is located under the front twin bed inside a DC Distribution box under another rats nest of wiring with the power inverter mounted blocking it's access. After extricating the inverter from the compartment, I was able to remove the old solar charge controller which is wired directly to the panels with no means to disconnect from the panels.( Be careful! )I added a 30amp breaker / disconnect and replaced the controller with a Victron 30/100 MPPT 100/30 solar charge converter which needs the selector set to Lithium. The Victron phone app is used to program the Smart Shunt and basically is set for the solar charger when you turn it on. The cable that goes from the old solar controller to the solar charge panel is not compatible with the Victron plug , so I have a Victron monitor on the way just for a quick visual although it is not needed if you have the phone.app. Turned it on & all worked flawlessly, note the batteries come about 60% charged so you need to charge them fully and reset the setting on the Smart Shunt to 100%.. I have a DC to DC charger to add to connect my alternator to the trailer system,,,, some say it is not needed but I'm going to do it anyway. All the equipment & materials are available on Amazon & has cost $2,300 for everything. To replace my old AGM batteries, I would have spent $1000 and still only had 50% of the 86 amp hour batteries but now have 200amps...... well worth it f you can do it yourself...... I hate to know what it would cost labor if you can even find anyone that has a clue about Lithium and such an upgrade. I cant wait to go off grid and see how it works!.