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Old 01-12-2025, 11:03 PM   #1
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2004 28' Classic
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New 12V Wire Termination Question

Okay...I know this has been done 1,000 times, but apparently my "google-fu" skills are failing me.


I'm about to make the leap to a 12V DC fridge, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how/where to power this. For instance - do I tie this into a DC fuse panel (still trying to find that in my rig...don't ask - I'll figure that out) and run wires from there to my fridge location? Or do I run wires from the DC power-plant with just an in-line fuse??? For whatever reason, this has my brain spun around.


So as a background, this is on my 2004 Classic (28ft). I recently upgraded my batteries to two 100AH Lithium, replaced my DC-DC Charger and locked its output to 14.4VDC, and then threw on a Renogy 400W panel on the roof. So far, everything is working as planned.


So now it's time for my final piece of this puzzle...replacing my long-dead absorption fridge with a 12V compressor fridge (looking closely at those JC / Amish ones).


So in the next few days (probably weeks the way I roll!), I'll be yanking out the old/busted, and seeing what I have to work with in that open space.


But the part not clicking in my head is how I'm going to correctly power this. Electrical isn't my forte, but I get by.


I'm guessing 8 or 10awg cables, but where to terminate them correctly?!?


It's late...I'm rambling. =)
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Old 01-13-2025, 05:14 PM   #2
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Okay - I guess this is where I need to make my termination. I'm assuming (once I see what value that fuse is) that is next to where that red-wire is - I'd tie into that?


And correct me if I'm wrong, but that red-wire (I'll be tracing that out soon) looks like it's on the wrong side of the terminal for it to be fused/protected? Or the previous-owner just needed voltage...hmph.
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Old 01-13-2025, 05:31 PM   #3
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The absorption fridge in my 2013 trailer has electronic ignition for the propane, and an electric light inside. That means it already has a 12V power wire going to it. Does your fridge have these features? Depending on how big that wire is and what else is on the same circuit, it might work for you.
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Old 01-13-2025, 08:35 PM   #4
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I do have that wire for my absorption fridge, and it is currently carrying voltage. I was concerned with whether or not it is enough to carry the amps required to run a compressor (especially if, for some dumb reason, it has other things using that as well).

Have you heard of anyone else on here that have used that wire?


I'll check to see the gauge - at first glance, it looked about 10awg...but I'll double check that.
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Old 01-13-2025, 09:23 PM   #5
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The most amps required for a 10 cubic foot 12 volt fridge I've seen is about 10 amps 12 gauge wire is more then enough for that, 14 gauge should work but I would want more then 14 if a long run to fridge to prevent voltage drop.
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Old 01-13-2025, 11:40 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Wazbro View Post
The most amps required for a 10 cubic foot 12 volt fridge I've seen is about 10 amps 12 gauge wire is more then enough for that, 14 gauge should work but I would want more then 14 if a long run to fridge to prevent voltage drop.

Well that's good to know. I'll double-check what I have in there and I'll see where that takes me.


Worst case, I suppose - I trace that existing cable out and see where it lands...and then pull a couple new wires through that pipe (with a few spares for future...lol!).


I'll keep y'all apprised of the results...for "closure" and peace-of-mind.
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Old 01-19-2025, 01:08 PM   #7
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My apologies for the delay...caught that nasty flu going around (I don't get sick very often...not used to that).


Anyhoo - I was hoping to find 10awg wire in there...but it ended up being 12awg. But on the upside, the insulation is rated at 105C temps - and from what I can tell, it should be able to handle 20A going through it.


And according to the always-accurate sales pitch of the fridge: "Average Amp Draw of 36 watts (3 amps at 12 volts)".



Even tripling their claim - that average puts me at 10A (I don't math on Sundays).



So I should be good to go. Hopefully. I think.


When I yank out that old fridge and get in there, I may do the "Oh look...squirrel!" thing and get sidetracked from the current part (ha!) and look into running a couple of 8 or 10awg wires to the rats-nest.
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Old 01-19-2025, 02:07 PM   #8
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You need to do some analysis before just guessing what the wire can carry by its temperature rating. The refrigerator should be fused somewhere on the existing wire. I'd check and see what the fuse rating is and use that as a guide (assuming Airstream knows what they're doing).

It's not just the wire gauge it's the length of the run that determines the fusing. Use the peak amperage rating of the frig to determine whether the wire and fusing can handle it. If you don't it will blow the fuse and anyways it's unsafe.

Your owner's manual will have an electrical diagram which is sometimes detailed enough to tell what and where the fuse lives. Otherwise, contact AS and they can send a detailed wiring PDF (assuming they have one from 2004).

If all else fails you can use a wiring size calculator to get the proper gauge depending on the length of the run and the draw. Fusing is usually an additional 20% over the expected load.
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Old 01-19-2025, 05:22 PM   #9
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Thank you JeffKim - according to that wiring size calculator you linked, this should be fine. But what you are flagging is completely legit - I need to find out if that wire is fused and at what rating. And that, my friend - is why this place pays you so well!


Oh...yeah - about that. I assume you're still waiting for that. It's on its way...just keep hanging out here and providing assistance!


Seriously, thank you - I'm heading out to find where that lands. (I do have the original manual in addition to the .pdf files...as fun as those are for finding out where in the camper these ACTUALLY PHYSICALLY reside).
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Old 01-19-2025, 08:23 PM   #10
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Ah yes...two steps forward, and...yeah.


So looking at the bundles of wires behind the drawer that's underneath the microwave (I really should post a pic), I found the two wires that currently feed the dead fridge The BROWN one is apparently not a home-run/dedicated line - it gets combined with two OTHER brown wires to form a 3-wire IN // 1-wire OUT setup. It looks like that single BROWN wire heads to that panel that I posted way up higher in this thread.


So JeffKim is right (nobody here is surpised) - with those additional wires in-play, my base calculations no longer apply. I don't know exactly what those other two wires feed - but I have my suspicions (need to get on my computer to confirm - schematics suck to read on a phone).


So I almost feel like I'm back to my original question that started this - if I run dedicated wires for my new fridge, is there a certain and correct way to wire it into that panel?
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Old 01-22-2025, 07:13 PM   #11
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Is this going to be as easy as running a dedicated new pair of wires - with the new one just wired to that "open terminal" (as shown in the picture)?


I don't see fuse values on these.


I do have a "second opinion" dropping by on Friday - I also want his input as I walk him through my 'Grande Plan'.


Thoughts from you Ladies or Gentlemen that have more DC power experience than I do?
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Old 01-23-2025, 09:16 AM   #12
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That looks more like a junction box. There should be a box with a lot of blade fuses, that might be the point where to connect it. Our frig is fused there (15A BTW).
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Old 01-24-2025, 12:23 PM   #13
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That looks more like a junction box. There should be a box with a lot of blade fuses, that might be the point where to connect it. Our frig is fused there (15A BTW).

I was thinking the same thing - but nowhere is a panel with blade fuses. Due to be an older Airstream?


But I not only traced out visually that "brown" wire coming from behind the dead fridge, I even put my "toner" on it and it's definitely where it lands. That panel, according to all docs I have found is a 20A thermal fuse.


This morning, we put an amp-clamp on it and fired up everything (the water pumps, heater ignition, etc.) and it's not drawing any additional power through that existing power wire.


So it looks like I'm going to run with using that existing feed - Airstream apparently uses good wiring!



Absolute worst case scenario - I run two new 10awg wires from the fridge to the main power feed with a 25A in-line fuse there as well as another 25A in-line fuse just before it hits the new fridge.


Side note - I finally pulled the trigger and purchased the new fridge just before typing in this message. It's the "Dutchaire 2310 12V Refrigerator" if anyone is curious.
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Old 01-24-2025, 07:31 PM   #14
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Got that old / dead Dometic out of there today! The solar installer from previous ownership fished the power cable between the pipes and fridge...had to hacksaw that out in order for me to escape the corner I painted myself into.



The wife has muscles! I was impressed!
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Old 01-24-2025, 09:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _KrakeN_ View Post
Side note - I finally pulled the trigger and purchased the new fridge just before typing in this message. It's the "Dutchaire 2310 12V Refrigerator" if anyone is curious.
That fridge is a single compressor model so shouldn't need much power, the ones I saw that were around 10 amps were duel compressor models so could use twice the power.
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Old 01-25-2025, 10:03 AM   #16
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I think you will be fine on that 12AWG Brown circuit 4. I found your manual online, and page G-9 shows the ATC type fuses used on the Canadian spec models. I don't think you have a fuse panel. I attached pages G-8 and G-9, hopefully these pages match your manual. That circuit is protected by the 20A thermal breaker, with a reset button.
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Old 01-25-2025, 11:25 AM   #17
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Yup...that G-8 page is what I was utilizing as well - it matches ALMOST perfectly with what I saw (20A Thermal Breakers).


Today becomes the start of the fun of cleaning up that giant hole left from the old fridge.


I can't wait to have a working fridge again - this one died at the start of our first "big trip" a year ago. Several trips since running with coolers and ice is doable - but I'm tired of that.


Thanks for being amazing people!
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Old 01-25-2025, 11:38 AM   #18
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That's quite a task removing that old fridge. You will like the new one.

Did you, by chance, look up the current requirement specs of the old Dometic fridge?
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Old 01-25-2025, 07:54 PM   #19
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That's quite a task removing that old fridge. You will like the new one.

Did you, by chance, look up the current requirement specs of the old Dometic fridge?

I didn't look up the old specs on the Dometic since it only runs on "shore power" or propane...so the DC current value would not apply. The DC part would only be for igniting the burner and the maybe the control board - neither of which would draw significant power.
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Old 01-25-2025, 10:51 PM   #20
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Those are the 12v circuit breakers. You won't find a panel filled with blade fuses if you have that panel, a those circuit breakers serve in place of the fuses. Most will be self-resetting, and a few are likely manual reset.

The and of each is connected to the copper bus bar. That end of the circuit breakers is not protected, as you surmised. This means that the red wire leading to the copper is not protected, but double check - that might be the wire feeding the bus bar and not a load. If it is a load, then hopefully there is an in-line fuse somewhere downhill from it.

If you have an empty spot for a circuit breaker on the bus bar you can install an additional one and tap the protected side of it for your new line. If there is not an empty spot, then you can tap into the bus bar side and run a new line from there, but you'll need to add an inline fuse of some type which should ideally be as close to the connection point as possible.
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