My Battery and Distribution Setup and Choices.

[crabbey1]

I thought I would post a little bit about my setup for anyone out there who is still trying to decide what is best for them and their budget. Feel free to comment but know that this is what I chose for my budget and needs...

Batteries:

2 x Trojan T-145 - 260 Ah

I chose these because they have the most bang for the buck IMHO. I researched high and low and these two batteries fit in the space I had available (in a battery box) and had the highest Amp Hour rating and also stayed within my budget. I got a killer deal on 2 of them from a local dealer and he even delivered to my doorstep for free...

Distribution Panel:

Progressive Dynamics 4045: 45 Amp Converter + AC/DC Distribution Panel

The price wasn't bad from Vintage Trailer Supply. I liked that it was an all in one solution and that it took up a minimal amount of space. Also being able to mount it to a wall meant easy access for me in the future.

Monitoring:

Trimetric 2025 Batter Monitoring System

Not much to say about this other than it works. I like using the function that shows the current power draw from the current devices being used. Gives me a better idea how to conserve...

There you have it... Not much to it but it took a lot of researching and asking Lewster about a thousand questions... Everything works as expected and I am very happy with all components. If anyone wants to know more about the specifics, just ask away...

[OilnH2o]

I like what I see, but can you show it installed? I'm curious - as I understand, the two batteries are 6 volt and fit in the standard battery box, that the group 24/27 fits in? And, where have you mounted the panel? Can you show pic's of the installation and how it fits? Thanks - it looks exciting.

Dave

[mefly2]

Do you feel that this gives better electrical storage than one of the sealed battery systems - cost not a consideration?

[crabbey1]

Oilnh2o - here are some photos of the install. Not 100% done but close.

[crabbey1]

The battery box is an after market box made for these two batteries. You can find them anywhere online. I think I got this from Amazon...

[crabbey1]

I have no idea which is better for storage. I chose to go with with two 6 volt batteries because of all the recommendations on these forums. I chose to get the lead acid and not gel or agm because of the price difference, but the gel and agm are definitely better. You never have to add water or any maintenance...

[crabbey1]

By the way, this is located in my bathroom closet. Batteries sit on the floor and the whole electrical setup is mounted on a shelf above the batteries. All the wires from the circuits come from the wall and up through a whole in the bottom of the shelf... Hope that helps explain the system a bit better. Ask away of you have questions...

[mefly2]

Nicely done!

[rogerdodger]

Are the batteries vented to the outside of the trailer? My Argosy also has the original battery in the bath closet, and I am considering adding a box but am puzzled how to vent it.

[crabbey1]

I bought a vent kit but I would have to drill a 2" hole in the side which I do not want to do. I have an idea to vent the box to the black tank vent pipe but have not got around to do it yet... I will let you know what I end up doing...

Luckily there is some airflow through that area because the original battery door is loose...

[Jim Clark]

Nice work.

I use AGM batteries on my boat because they are located in the cabin, the flooded batteries will discharge hydrogen into the cabin the sealed AGM units contain the hydrogen discharge inside of the case.

[riv-nut]

Hi Crabbey1, thanks for your post. I like the clean set-up you have going! I'm in the middle of shell-off restoration of my '52 flying cloud and am about ready to start the (re)wiring. I also bought the progressive dynamics converter/power panel from VTS and am hoping it does what I want. I was wondering (hoping) that I could use it without a trailer battery thinking with only shore power that it would convert and supply 12V to the lighting I'm planning on putting it. And that I could just leave it plugged into the tow vehicle and have 12V power along side the road without shore power. Would this work, or would I have to have an on-board battery? I appreciate the insight!

Thanks!
Lee

[crabbey1]

The converter should supply power to the 12v lighting as long as it is hooked up to shore power. Call up VTS to confirm that though. They are super helpful. As far as having 12v on the road while hooked up to the vehicle, that is another story... The 7 way plug does supply power to the trailer when traveling but it only charges the batteries in the trailer, it does not supply a direct current to the 12v system. I am sure that there is a way to hook up a separate wire to supply 12v, but it would drain your car battery quick. It is not meant for this application since it is not a deep cycle battery.

If I were you, I would just buy a small cheap deep cycle battery to keep in your trailer. If cost id the factor, I am sure you can get one in your price range. If space is the issue, you could put a battery box on your trailer tongue.

Good Luck.

[crabbey1]

I have put my 12v system to a long trip and want to report back about it's performance. I just went on a 10 day, 9 night trip to Arizona and back. The entire trip was boondocking and I never recharged the entire trip. I kept an eye on the Trimetric Meter to spread out my usage over the time on the road. I started at 100% full charge and returned home at 57%. This was using the furnace every night as well as a LCD TV and Blu Ray player and some LED lights... I also used the water pump and took 5 showers during the trip... Overall I am very happy with the setup. 260 Ah are perfect for me. Once I get a solar panel, I will have unlimited power!

[TG Twinkie]

The charge line from your TV will supply 12 volt power to your coach when the TV is running or you have the key on.
Unfortunately the wiring is too small to work well. Plus, you will drain the TV battery to the point where it may not start the TV.
The converter and TV are wired in parallel in order for either to charge the coach battery.
You will need a battery in the coach to provide power to the breakaway switch when towing. In case the coach becomes unhitched from the TV. Most, if not all states require this.
Deep Cycle batteries are the best choice for your coach. The battery in your TV is designed differently for high current short period starts. A typical "start" battery is not the best choice when it comes to providing 12 volt power to your coach.

[riv-nut]

Thanks Crabbey and Twinkie...very helpful information. Sounds like I'll need to figure out where to put a small deep cycle battery in the trailer. In the directions for the PD converter, it talks about an auxiliary battery disconnect switch or something with a small jumper that goes between two battery attachment lugs....is this so you can flip a switch somewhere and remotely disconnect the trailer battery or something? What would the wiring diagram look like for that??

I appreciate the help!

Thanks,
Lee

[B_Boult]

Hi I just bought a converter identical to the one you have. I was excited to test it out but I get nothing.i spent hrs going over the installation and I have wired it correctly and I know the 120v AC side works but the DC side would not power up anything. I used my fan and a light as a test and got nothing. The cooling fan in the unit never comes on and when power is shut off to the DC converter it just makes a mild whirring sound and that's it. I have looked everywhere to see if I am missing something but there is not much information or a video of the system running.
I am thinking the converter DC side is faulty. I know I have it wired properly.
So if there is any description of what it should be doing when power is supplied I would be grateful. Then I can decide if it needs to be returned and get it replaced.
Thanks
Brian

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by B_Boult

Hi I just bought a converter identical to the one you have. I was excited to test it out but I get nothing.i spent hrs going over the installation and I have wired it correctly and I know the 120v AC side works but the DC side would not power up anything. I used my fan and a light as a test and got nothing. The cooling fan in the unit never comes on and when power is shut off to the DC converter it just makes a mild whirring sound and that's it. I have looked everywhere to see if I am missing something but there is not much information or a video of the system running.
I am thinking the converter DC side is faulty. I know I have it wired properly.
So if there is any description of what it should be doing when power is supplied I would be grateful. Then I can decide if it needs to be returned and get it replaced.
Thanks
Brian

If 120 volts AC is applied and the output is zero, you have a bad converter.

Andy

[crabbey1]

Did you insert fuses into the slots for the proper circuits? Are they blown?

[B_Boult]

OK update on converter.
it does work.
I decided to approach the whole problem after I cleaned up work space and bought a curcuit and voltage tester. I grounded everything properly organized and relabelled the many wires involved in the rewiring process and "VOLA" it is all ok. It is not like I don't know about these things. My dad was an electrician and passed much knowledge on to me and I have wired many houses but like many projects, keeping organized helped the problem (which wire goes where). So all is good.
I am restoring the 1955 Overlander alone so it can be daunting at times but cleaning up, keeping tools and enviroment organized goes a long way in helping with sanity.
I have always maintained that if something seems broken it could just be something really simple as in this case getting the circuit correct and wiring organized.

It is exciting to see my new fan and vintage lighting working and knowing someday it will all look great.

Thanks for the suggestions they are all valid things to check.
Cheers