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**HiHoAgRV** · 06-11-2007, 11:52 AM

How long is your extension cord? A real long cord and a pretty good load in the trailer (ac on, 110 refrig...) will allow the neutral side of the load to pull high and give you a tingle if the ground and the neutral are tied together in the camper.

utahredrock · 06-11-2007, 11:56 AM

It's 50 or 100 feet. When it shocked me nothing on the trailer was on. Well, the refrigerator was plugged in and running, but no AC or anything else.

Minnie's Mate · 06-11-2007, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

Now, for those of us that don't yet have every tool known to man, this one is great for tracking down wiring problems without ripping the whole trailer apart.
powerprobe
Then check ECT2000

It is wireless, you don't have to have direct access to the wires.

Uh, if it's wireless, why are there so many wires in the box?

**HiHoAgRV** · 06-11-2007, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by utahredrock

It's 50 or 100 feet. When it shocked me nothing on the trailer was on. Well, the refrigerator was plugged in and running, but no AC or anything else.

Before you start any major disassembly, I'd try hooking to a normal RV service with a normal cord. Yours may be doing the same thing as mine did, the long extension cord was the problem.

eubank · 06-11-2007, 02:36 PM

Yeah, the skin of our rig zapped me once time. I investigated. The very head of the main plug into the campground had literally fallen apart and was allowing current into the ground wire. Buzzzzzt.

If yours is in the same state, you can purchase a new plug, but be forewarned: The replacements that you get at the usual stores are cheap cruddy plastic, not intended to last for the next 40 years. (Someday I'm going to replace the whole cord anyway.)

Lynn

overlander63 · 06-11-2007, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

Uh, if it's wireless, why are there so many wires in the box?

The wires hook the unit up to the wires you are testing. The other end is basically a radio receiver, no wires needed.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 06-11-2007, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

Now, for those of us that don't yet have every tool known to man, this one is great for tracking down wiring problems without ripping the whole trailer apart.
powerprobe
Then check ECT2000

It is wireless, you don't have to have direct access to the wires.

Hi, Terry. I have a really neat cordless test light; But these tools were made after I quit being an automotive electrician / quick service tech. But as a "Mac Tools Distributor" I was able to sell some of these testers to the next generation techs. But that is all history now. I went back to the dealers as a shop foreman. Plan to retire this year.

tbrom · 06-12-2007, 06:13 AM

If you get a two lead test light, find a good ground(outside of trailer, Metal waterpipe) turn all of your breakers off. Turn the main breaker on and test from the skin to the ground, one lead of tester to ground the other to skin. If your light goes on the fault is in your panel area. If not continue to turn one breaker on at a time until the light goes on. This will help isolate the fault. You will have to keep the main on. Hope this helps.

LHall · 08-30-2007, 02:35 PM

I had the same issue with my AS. I discovered that the shore power cable was completely shot. It was dry rotted and had small cracks throughout the entire length. The power cable on my trailer goes through a hole drilled in the floor and skin. I enlarged the hole and installed a nylon strain relief at that point to prevent any future rubbing. Additionally, I discovered that the breaker box wiring was in bad shape as well and replaced the wiring between the breakers. This problem is completely gone.

A quick and easy way to see what is going on with your cord is to check for continuity between the different legs on your plug. Set your VOM to read ohms and set it at the a low setting. Mine has a 20 ohm setting. Touch one lead to the trailer skin and one to the ground stud on your plug. It should read 0 or very close to that.

Next touch your meter lead to each power stud and the trailer. You should not read anything. It should show as an open circuit. If you read any resistance you definitely have a short somewhere in your electrical system.