migrate 30a twist lock with smart plug

[68 Overlander]

Glad to see this thread. They sent us a sample and I was immediately very impressed with the quality and the 20X more contact over the L3-30 Marinco or Furion.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by 68 Overlander

Glad to see this thread. They sent us a sample and I was immediately very impressed with the quality and the 20X more contact over the L3-30 Marinco or Furion.

With those of us renovating vintage units, is this something that would be smart to install during the renovation instead of the 30a Marinco twist lock? I have the twist exterior installed now, but we have a conceiled electrical chase where we can get to the wiring to change it out if it’s the definite wave of the future. Thanks, Bubba

[68 Overlander]

I can't even ship one for 5 days. When they hit the Aistream community I was blindsided. They were searching for us I and I guess we were searching to them. They also said they wanted us to be a national distributor for the community. Pretty nice gesture.

[FishByFly]

Where did y’all find the Cable/Sat dual device? I can only locate the single. Second question about the install. Did you use any sealant as a backup to the gasket?

[bweybright]

So the Marinco I have with my trailer are now unsafe and should be thrown away? And the complete boating world is going away from the Marinco cords?
Or is the problem with the cheap knock offs of the Marinco?
Please let me know as I have Marinco on my trailer and they are totally protected from rain on the trailer side...now on the pedestal side that is another issue......

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by 68 Overlander

I can't even ship one for 5 days. When they hit the Aistream community I was blindsided. They were searching for us I and I guess we were searching to them. They also said they wanted us to be a national distributor for the community. Pretty nice gesture.

Randy, glad to hear it. I love mine. As a distributor, in concert with their efforts to enter the Airstream world, you might suggest that they try a redesign to try shortening the length of the male outlet assembly by a quarter inch or so. With the back cover installed, I had to modify the inner skin on both my 23d and my 23FB. The rear of the unit contacted the inner skin, not allowing the front to be flush with the exterior. It seems on other models, this isn't an issue. Could be based on where the outlet is located and if the space between the skins is a bit wider in certain places. All I know is that mine was a total no-go without getting my Roto-Zip out on both of my applications to cut on the inside. In the case of my 23 FB, I actually had to cut a hole in the interior skin to allow the assembly to fit, and reroute the interior Romex, from being between the skins, to inside the trailer, attaching to the outlet that stuck into the trailer a quarter inch or so. Fortunately it was down under the closet floor, so not anywhere noticeable. But I could see someone encountering this and just sending it back.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

With those of us renovating vintage units, is this something that would be smart to install during the renovation instead of the 30a Marinco twist lock? I have the twist exterior installed now, but we have a conceiled electrical chase where we can get to the wiring to change it out if it’s the definite wave of the future. Thanks, Bubba

Yes, can highly recommend going to SmartPlug - especially with the interior electrical chase access you describe.

Originally Posted by pcskier

All I know is that mine was a total no-go without getting my Roto-Zip out on both of my applications to cut on the inside. In the case of my 23 FB, I actually had to cut a hole in the interior skin to allow the assembly to fit, and reroute the interior Romex, from being between the skins, to inside the trailer, attaching to the outlet that stuck into the trailer a quarter inch or so.

Hole placement before cutting, interior wall view just forward from street side wheel well.



Luckily, we installed ours from scratch, and the new hole extended inside the trailer, as shown from the outside.



I had all new 50A service wiring, using 6/4 SEO -40C to 105C festoon cable from the SmartPlug receptacle to the Eaton load center.



73/gus

[FishByFly]

We have a 2017 25’ FB FC. Has anyone replaced both power locations and the TV/Sat plugs on this model or similar? I would like to install the smart plug devices but have concerns about the front plug given the comments about having to cut the interior skin to install.

[FishByFly]

Adding to my questions list (two above)
3. When searching to buy, I see a notation “no thermostat” for the 30 AMP stainless steel SmartPlug. What does the thermostat item mean to us?

[rmkrum]

Gus,

Well done on properly marking the wiring for future reference!

It's always a good idea to make it easy to figure out what you did in the future, when you are trying to fix something in the dark and rain!

[SilverHouseDreams]

The twist lock was a mess when we bought our AS used, so I installed the SmartPlug on it the same time I installed the new converter and the EMS. Recently I picked up a second connector and used a heavy duty 10-guage extension cord to make a nice long 20-amp cord for when plugging in at home or in storage...or if I ever mooch dock. Seems to work great, it always connects smoothly with no hassle of plastic on plastic threads.

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by bweybright

So the Marinco I have with my trailer are now unsafe and should be thrown away? And the complete boating world is going away from the Marinco cords?
Or is the problem with the cheap knock offs of the Marinco?
Please let me know as I have Marinco on my trailer and they are totally protected from rain on the trailer side...now on the pedestal side that is another issue......

I learned this 20 years ago and there was no solution. I didn't have the problem with my classics but the newer coaches and boats with that L5 type plug are. Search marina boat fire causes and you will see what is going on our there. It's heat from the lack of contact with the prongs. It's actually only touching the dimple of you look at it close and it heats up. RVs starting this L-5 connection later than the marine industry and more and more OEMs are starting to use them, including Airstream.

[The Colonel]

Originally Posted by FishByFly

We have a 2017 25’ FB FC. Has anyone replaced both power locations and the TV/Sat plugs on this model or similar? I would like to install the smart plug devices but have concerns about the front plug given the comments about having to cut the interior skin to install.

Yes, I did a year or so ago. No issues at all
At the time I couldn’t find the sat cable by SP so used another brand. Here are photos before and after. I replaced both power inlets.

[waninae39]

i installed the new chord set into my 22FB

the plastic cover DOES not have a latch onto the plug

the extra cost metal cover dos

[rmkrum]

At least on mine, the metal cover, although it helps retain the orange plug, is not the primary plug retention device.

The two stainless-steel locking tabs (?) on the sides of the orange plug engage the receptacle to solidly hold the plug in place. Mine takes a pretty hard push to get the tabs fully engaged, but then it's in there very solid. I suspect the shiny new gaskets are not best friends quite yet...but it is sure waterproof when engaged.

[waninae39]

yes, i have to push the left and right retention hinges in until i hear a clack and the tab is flush, then go the other side and do the same

i was hoping the the hinge had a secondary latch , but no luck

the metal door alone costs as much as the plug yikes!

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by waninae39

---------------snip------------------

the metal door alone costs as much as the plug yikes!

Somehow, I'm not surprised, but mine sure looks really nice on the side of the Airstream...and I think it's real stainless steel.

[waninae39]

can you post a pic from under the door

ie i would like to see if the metal door actually has a latch for a secondary hold of the chord assembly

[SilverHouseDreams]

Originally Posted by waninae39

can you post a pic from under the door

ie i would like to see if the metal door actually has a latch for a secondary hold of the chord assembly

It does have a latch, it catches on the top of the plug when pushed down after inserting the connector. I don’t have a picture or my trailer handy. I bought mine as a kit from Airstream Life’s Store, was actually cheaper than other places I looked. I’ve bought a few items from them as they were more competitive than I’d expect for being AS focused.

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by FishByFly

Adding to my questions list (two above)
3. When searching to buy, I see a notation “no thermostat” for the 30 AMP stainless steel SmartPlug. What does the thermostat item mean to us?

The part numbers ending in NT does in fact mean "no thermostat" because they used have a feature to shut off the power to the coach/boat automatically if it got too hot. I think it was ~200 F. It was discontinued for a couple reasons.
With so much surface contact on the plug, they rarely if ever get that hot and it wasn't really a feature worth the cost I suppose. Already 20X more safe than the L5.
Also, the thermostat would "open" when it cooled back down and automatically resupply the coach with power. I'm told the ABYC (boat police) was concerned somebody could be working on their wiring thinking they were unplugged from shore power and get zapped. Just takes one person not paying attention but that guy is out there Actually makes pretty good sense from a liability standpoint.