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Old 10-25-2016, 01:41 PM   #1
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Junction box Overlander 1968

Hi!
guys need some help

Have gutted partialy my Overlander 1968 and impossible to find the junction box. I found the wires going to tail under the bathroom floor (that I removed to renew it) But impossible to find the box itself.

The main cord umbilical, seen outside goes on left into metal beam (when you walk to rear) then no way to follow as it goes under floor... No doors or any access to this box ?

Thanks a lot
Fabien
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:46 PM   #2
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1964 22' Safari
1968 26' Overlander
Beaver County , Pennsylvania
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The 110 v junction box is a breaker panel (originally with two breakers) located under the bathroom sink. We added a third breaker for the new air conditioner. If you're looking for the 12v dc junction, ours is just two glass automotive fuses on a fuse block located just inside the rear hatch, up and to the right. A bit of a challenge to get access.

Here's some info on our project at: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f394...er-155180.html

You're layout could be different than ours. And ours may easily have been modified by a previous owner.

Good luck and let us know how it goes,

Roy and Marie
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:57 PM   #3
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Hi!
thanks for your answer. But it isn't what I look for.
I look for the place where the umbilical (so the cord from the outside front) endup and get splited to wires with smaller size (I found those under the bathroom floor next to the holding tank) But didn't find the place of that box
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Old 10-26-2016, 11:59 AM   #4
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Tifaz,

Your '68 Overlander may have a different layout, but I'll describe how ours is laid out with respect to the umbilical (shore power) cord.

The umbilical cord enters the trailer in the rear bumper compartment on the street side (left side when looking toward the front of the trailer). It enters to the center of the street side frame rail then goes up through the floor. This area is behind and below the toilet in our model. The umbilical cord then runs above the floor but under the battery stand to the curb side (right side when looking toward the front of the trailer). It turns up about 6 inches and enters the breaker box (junction box). On the photo that is the black cable entering the bottom of the box. Originally there were two circuit breakers in ours. Those lines exit the left side of the box as white romex type cables and immediately enter the wall. We added a third circuit and breaker for the Air Conditioner. That is the black cable exiting the left side of the box in the photo. Everything else in the photo is PEX plumbing or 12 v wiring.

Given your description, I wonder if a previous owner was working on the 110v system, removed the box and then gave up. I would think it's not likely the manufacturer would put a breaker box/junction box under the floor where it couldn't be accessed for repairs, etc. I'm guessing you'll find a couple (2 or 3) holes in a wall with rubber grommets close to where the box was once mounted. If you can find those holes and if the original wires are there, the fix may be to install a new breaker box and reinstall the umbilical cord to the new box.

You should note that most of the '68 models were built with aluminum wiring, which can cause problems over time (connections loosen and can even overheat.) We had one bad connection on our rebuild. If your trailer was stripped down and the inner walls removed it may have been in an effort to remove the aluminum wiring and replace it with copper wiring.

I hope this helps you find the original circuits. Let us know if you need more help and let us know about your trailer. How far it is dismantled, etc.

Good luck,

Roy and Marie
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Old 10-26-2016, 03:15 PM   #5
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“outside goes on left into metal beam (when you walk to rear)”

I'll guess this to mean the Curbside(Right-hand) Frame Rail.

Between the front of the trailer, and the entry steps, on the outside, about an arms-length toward the front from the steps, crawl under the trailer a few feet and find a 9 inch rectangular cover-plate on the bellypan. Behind the plate, is where the umbilical cord joins the 12V Tow lighting, charge, and brake systems. There is no junction “box”. The wires are loose, and joined with wire nuts.

All wires in this area are 12V. They are stranded copper. Many of the wires are not colored the same as current color codes. For example, the blue Airstream wire is charge from TV, not brakes.

Happy trails
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:10 PM   #6
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I installed a new umbilical cord on my 66 Trade Wind. The spot where the wires inside the umbilical cord connect to the wires for the trailer is just where Aluminuminum said they were on his trailer. It is inside the A frame C channel. And his advice about color codes is well taken, cause they ain't what you think. You can't connect 'red to red" and expect the lights to work.

Here is a photo of the spot on my trailer, and here is a wiring diagram of a 66 "exterior trailer lights and brakes" that may help you .

David
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:49 AM   #7
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Thanks ALUM and dbj. I guess the first step is to understand the question. I wasn't even close...Oops

Roy
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Old 10-27-2016, 03:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM View Post
I'll guess this to mean the Curbside(Right-hand) Frame Rail.

Between the front of the trailer, and the entry steps, on the outside, about an arms-length toward the front from the steps, crawl under the trailer a few feet and find a 9 inch rectangular cover-plate on the bellypan. Behind the plate, is where the umbilical cord joins the 12V Tow lighting, charge, and brake systems. There is no junction “box”. The wires are loose, and joined with wire nuts.

All wires in this area are 12V. They are stranded copper. Many of the wires are not colored the same as current color codes. For example, the blue Airstream wire is charge from TV, not brakes.

Happy trails

Thank you so much ! You were right ! found the cover plate next to the stab
Just have to drill the rivets out and see whats in
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Old 10-27-2016, 03:13 PM   #9
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Thank you guys !
problem solved
will make sure the connections are in good shape, then prepairing a little upgrade by adding a proper junction box... with inside access
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:57 PM   #10
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We were just trying to help a fellow Airstreamer. Roy, like you, I was thinking AC junction box. There are several in my trailer. Ah english, a very difficult language to to understand. I never did get the hang of it. Aluminuminum has it down pretty good I'd say.

When I was working in this same area on my Trade Wind, I asked Forum members what the heck this thing was dangling down from the frame rail. I had never seen a 12v "thermal" resetting circuit breaker before. Forum members identified it right away. Live and learn.

David

PS: That's the old belly pan laying on the floor in the photo.
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:21 AM   #11
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Thanks David. Both of you are a big part of what makes the forums such a great resource. You've bailed me out before with great ideas and advice. It is appreciated.

Roy
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Old 10-29-2016, 07:49 PM   #12
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The OP's wording was confusing. 64's well illustrated, detailed post is an exemplary example of how helpful Forum members are. Pictures are key to understanding the differences and similarities from year to year.

I eliminated the “breaker” in the bellypan. Isn't it somewhat redundant, as most TVs will be wired to have more complete protection of the charge wire with a breaker located at the more accessible TV battery. I don't know if it's required to be that way by trailer code.

From that bellypan breaker, 1968 blue charge wire goes into “Central Control” where it attaches to an archaic electro-mechanical devise hoping to automatically disconnect from the TV battery before draining it below its engine starting capacity. No way I'm trusting my TV battery to that gizmo. I tossed the entire Central Control panel, along with the univolt and 110V breaker panel and 12V fuse holders to the recyclers. I like more accurate electrical info than red-yellow-green analog meters.

With regard to wiring, 1968 was a step in the wrong direction.
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Old 10-29-2016, 08:42 PM   #13
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Man,
I hate to hear you tossed the Cenral Control. That was specific to 68 and I have been looking for one that is in better shape than mine for several years. I wanted to keep my Trade Wind as original as possible so I left it in place when I redid my trailer. I always get comments on the Central Control and how cool it looks whenever I show my trailer.
If you happen to still have it please let me know.
thanks.
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Old 10-30-2016, 08:01 AM   #14
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Another valuable aspect of the forums, I think I just heard a couple of things I didn't realize. I've always believed that, any day you learn something, it's a good day, and any day you share something with someone else, it's a great day. The goal is to not have too many bad days...

68, I wasn't aware that the control panel was unique to 1968 models. I figured it ran through the end of the 60's and into the early 70's. I always figured it was influenced by the race to the moon and brought "modern" 1960's high tech into the Airstream. We discussed removing it or keeping it (it's a little scuffed up), during our project, and, I'm glad now we decided to keep it. It does draw questions and we get a few "Cool" type comments from people.

ALUM, we kept the archaic electro-mechanical relay that disconnects the TV when the charge is too low (low voltage, I think). Now, I'm wondering if I should disconnect (bypass) the relay. We always disconnect the trailer 7 pin connector from the TV when we park over night, even when we keep the trailer hitch connected (for a quick start the next morning). Does that seem like adequate protection, or is there a failure mode I'm not addressing? I didn't think the 'failure to disconnect' feature would be a problem for the typical lunch or refueling stop.

Thanks,
Roy
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:49 PM   #15
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Well my 66 "base" model Trade Wind doesn't have that "high tech" control panel. It does have an analog battery voltage indicator in the bath, as well as a polarity light.

But my 86 does have a control panel of sorts. It gives the fluid level of the three water tanks, an indication of battery voltage (good, fair), and a light that says the 12v pump is one. It also has a fancy digital clock.

I wonder if the control panel was part of the "International" trim trailers and not the base one.

David
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